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Correct '73 Heater Control Valve?

73RedRunner

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What is the correct heater control valve for a 1973 road runner without a/c? This would be the valve that controls flow to the heater core, and is mounted at the passenger fender. I have seen a cable controlled valve, and also some vacuum controlled valves. I have seen two-piece mounting brackets, and I have seen a one-piece mounting bracket. What is actually correct? Some pics would be great. The factory service manual isn't leading me in a direction....or maybe I just can't figure it out. Anyway, thanks in advance to the FBBO experts.
 
What is the correct heater control valve for a 1973 road runner without a/c? This would be the valve that controls flow to the heater core, and is mounted at the passenger fender. I have seen a cable controlled valve, and also some vacuum controlled valves. I have seen two-piece mounting brackets, and I have seen a one-piece mounting bracket. What is actually correct? Some pics would be great. The factory service manual isn't leading me in a direction....or maybe I just can't figure it out. Anyway, thanks in advance to the FBBO experts.
Correct for 73, not sure about other years.
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Thank you ODZKing. Gorgeous engine bay! I see you have a phenolic valve that is cable actuated, and you have an a/c car. I have a parts car which has a/c, and it has a cable actuated valve, but the valve is metallic. I read somewhere that the phenolic valves gave some trouble and were later replaced by metal valves. My parts car would seem to prove that out. The metallic valve has a metal bracket that bolts up to the bracket on the fender in your pic. So, it is using a two-piece metal bracket to attach it to the fender. It has the cable that passes through the firewall and goes to the valve, just as your car does.

My 73 road runner does not have a/c. And unfortunately these items have been lost to time, no valve and no bracket on the fender, and I don't see a provision for a cable. I have tried to research the valve for a 73 non-a/c car, and have seen a vacuum controlled valve as supposedly being on my car. That valve has a one-piece bracket attaching it to the fender. But looking at the dash ventilation controls, I don't see a provision for a vacuum actuation as there are only cables going to the heater box. I don't seem to have any "extra" attachment points for a cable that would actuate the valve?
 
Isn't the same for AC and NON AC cars? I have seen most of 73 and lates with this

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I have seen the phenolic one mostly on 71/72s maybe 73 being a crossover year
 
This came off my 73 Charger SE parts car.

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This is what I find when checking auto parts houses as supposedly belonging on a non-a/c car.

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Your 73 may have been supplied with a vacuum controlled valve. A small vacuum line goes from the heater control(underside) through a firewall grommet to the water control valve, mounted with 2 screws. These are very hard to find ,although 69-74 travelall /trucks used the same vacuum controlled valve.
 
Post #4 is what was on my unmolested Feb built A/C car.

Mine leaked internally, and the NOS replacement I got from ebay also leaked internally :(

I too have found indication from multiple sources that a vacuum operated valve was used on non- A/C cars.
 
Digging through the Factory Service Manual, I see a reference to some vaccuum controls under the Strato Vent section. My car doesn't have this option. But, perhaps I can use this as a guide to reconstruct what was once there? If anyone has some pics of how this vacuum set-up looks under the dash of a non-a/c car, that would be very helpful!

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Thank you but those are not my car, I took those at Carlisle as I need one as well. Actually as you can see from the pic, I have the wrong one on there, but I wasn't going to wait until I found one to get the car up and running. Ha, that was 5 years ago.
Also I can't speak for big block cars w/o AC, however I cant imagine it would be different. I know small block non AC cars do not have a control valve at all. I believe if you have just the pull vents, there is NO valve. My 318 did NOT have one.
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You gotta have a valve, or the heater will be on all the time.
 
My thinking was along the lines of YY1, there "should be" a valve to stop flow to the heater core. Without a valve you would have a hot chunk of metal under that dash all summer long. Even with the blend door closed, I am thinking the heater core would still heat the air moving by it. Would be very warm for folks where the summers are long and hot like Florida, Texas, and where I am....Bama. Would seem strange to me, but maybe they didn't worry about roasting the folks in warmer climates, and as ODZKing stated, Ma MOAR didn't install one in the non-a/c cars.
 
I have seen two Factory A/C valves, the earlier type will crack after many years the plastic top part is made from a bake lite type plastic brittle, which always fails over time, I purchased another valve NOS($160.00) with an improved black material that looks stronger and more durable it seems they had improved the material later on in the years when most of the originals would fail. The better material looks more like a mix of polyurethane or something, My thermastat failed, on the hottest of days 96 deg, the engine ran hot but did not over heat, it held up. About 25 years ago my original factory valve failed after an engine rebuild until the motor broke in it ran very hot, cracked the valve but did not leak much. replaced it with a steel valve, and now back to NOS. ( the black plastic you want is a lighter color)
 
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