Current 440 w/steel crank. Nitrous or stroker?

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks for all of the help and support of my various posts and questions and comments about the 6bbl RB stroker motor I have "planned" for at least a year.
Jim LaRoy was my choice for the build, and I appreciate his continued support, and his reasons for not taking any new builds.
What I am asking for now is opinions or advice on a new perspective for power under my hood.
Instead of starting with a RB block that my builder or I would find and supply (because I was going to just fog and wrap my current motor, using only the 6bbl intake, carbs, and headers off of it) and build a stroker, topped with my 3 Holley 2bbl carbs and aluminum intake, looking for as close to 600 HP and at least 650 Ft Lbs torque, and Trick Flow 240s....
Instead, would it make more sense and cost a significantly less amount of money to use my existing 71 440 steel crank heavy rods motor, do a clean up or slight bore of it since I would have to change the pistons anyway, maybe change the heavy stock rods to something stronger and lighter too, and still get the TF 240s. Also maybe change out what I believe is the Mopar purple stripe 292°/.509 cam and change that while the engine is being worked on? The way I would get the power (6XX HP and Torque) would be via a Nitrous Express SAFE 1 gal aux tank and pump:
https://www.nitrousexpress.com/1500...mp-5-12psi-adjustable-regulator-gasoline.html
and their 2bbl nitrous plate system (I already have the center spray plate) that is rated for 50-300 horsepower.
https://www.nitrousexpress.com/30026-10-holley-2-bbl-tri-power-3-plates-gasoline-50-300hp.html
I would guess that the refreshed 440 with the TF 240s would probably be around 475 Horsepower easily, so add 150 to that and I'm at 625 HP without a dangerous amount of nitrous (125 HP shot). I could probably push the nitrous to 150 and still be really safe regarding no real chance of engine failure.
Since I rarely go to the race track, and when I do it's for test and tune or racing friends or maybe someone I run across at the track, the biggest question is how much less the nitrous route would cost vs the stroker, and I don't want to have problems or tear it down for maintenance or repairs once I get it built.
Total cost for the SAFE tank and Nitrous system together is about $1,500
Thanks.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Sorry, I'm old and like HP made the old fashioned way. Cubic inches, cam, and carbs. No disrespect, but NOS destroys more parts than a well built stroker. It also eggs the bores, and multiple other things. If you're a horsepower junkie like me, you put NOS on it, your going to use it more often than not.

 

[1967coronet440]

Stroker all the way, all that power right under your foot. No turning on bottles or bottle heaters etc. turn the key put it in gear and go at a moments notice.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks guys.
Keep the advice and opinions coming!
I have no bias. I wish I already had my new engine, but that is serious coin, and it isn't easily extracted on the Down Low.
Speaking of the D.L., if I do a complete stroker or just heads, pistons, rods, nitrous--I would rather the wife not know.
A couple of reasons: Even though she had a high performance rebuild done by my local builder of her stout 4 bolt main, 3x2 Tripower 421 for her 65 GTO, that doesn't mean that I can point to that and say "my turn". In fairness, the 421 had a bad rod (big end) bearing. It was badly worn-so bad, 1 half had cracked and had a piece missing! So her engine HAD to be rebuilt, and although it already had numerous high performance parts and machine work done, I definitely took it to the next level. The only 3 things we could do that we did NOT is a stroker forged steel crank (I let her make that decision) even though we had to replace the crankshaft, I bought a perfect (thank you Bruce Fulper) cast iron Pontiac "ArmaSteel" 421/428 crank. We kept the hand ported "6777" iron heads, but I had them machined for Viton valve stem seals, and they already had hardened valve seats installed, instead of getting aluminum aftermarket heads. I also didn't switch to a 3x2 EFI system, but that may happen in the future. Roller cam, forged aluminum pistons, H beam Eagle rods, ARP everything everywhere, new Ignitor III billet aluminum distributor by Pertronix...It has the Ram Air 2 cast iron exhaust manifolds, and they actually flow pretty darn well.
So I don't want to have "the discussion" about the cost of my build, and we race each other! So far my Roadrunner has beat the GTO every time, but we also just installed a Ford based Quick Performance rear axle assembly, top of the line options, and went from the open 3.3 R&P to a posi 3.80 R&P. Top that off with a complete UMI rear suspension installation, and the Roadrunner may see the GOAT's taillights at the 1320...
She may notice the Trick Flow 240s, so I may have to "cop to that" but the rest-regardless of the route I go will be on the DL.

 

[Turboomni]

Have your wife pay for your stroker..

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Stroker hands down. 4.250 kit min

 

[biomedtechguy]

Have your wife pay for your stroker..

Between the parts and labor, the 421 rebuild was around $8k that included a 2nd shop pulling the engine and reinstalling it. I had the Muncie 4 speed resealed, and the Quick Performance, UMI, and Wilwood parts and labor last September cost around $5k off the top of my head...
So, yeah...I would have one HELL of a stroker motor built if I did "price matching" to what we've laid out on the GTO...

Stroker hands down. 4.250 kit min

Thanks.
That sure was my plan all along.
Heck, if I ever can harness all the power the stroker brings, I could always add a 75-100 HP shot plate to it...

 

[vintage chromoly]

If you rarely go to the track and primarily use the car for cruising and car shows, you don’t need anywhere near 600 to 650 HP.
That’s a lot of power.

Just leave it alone or do a mild type rebuild, if the engine needs attention.

Don’t get caught up in the magazine numbers. Unless you are building a strip car (and have the experience to pedal a 600HP car) do yourself a favor and be realistic about a “street car / car show cruiser” engine.

 

[biomedtechguy]

My friend just ran low 10s at 133 in his 2006 Corvette. Engine swap, supercharger, e85, ...
That was his first run since the e85 tune, and only about the 6th run since he began heading in this direction...I do not expect to beat him.
Another close friend is almost finished with a 2JZ swap into a Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Conquest. Depending on how close to stock he keeps the Toyota engine, I may have a chance once I'm rebuilt. So far the single turbo and GM TH400 sound like he certainly will have room to move a fair distance from stock....
Then there's another guy, in my car club, who is running 12s in his FOUR DOOR Ford pickup truck, Coyote engine, supercharged...I'd very much like to beat him.