CVF Racing one wire alternator installation clarity

[hpg4815]

Hi All, I have read about 17 different alternator related posts on this forum, and I have obtained good information, but needed a little bit of clarity. I have tried to post replies in those threads with my questions, but I do not always get a response. So I do apologies if this information seems redundant.

I purchased a new M&H OEM dash harness for my 1972 charger, and also the CVF racing serpentine conversion kit (2 belt system not one) that comes with the 1 wire GM alternator that is 140 AMPs. I've added in tank fuel pump, EFI, and going with electric fans, upgraded radio, painless auxiliary fuse box, etc. I've purchased the Painless Performance High Amp Alternator Wiring Kit.


I need help with the following questions:

1. I do not need a a ballast resistor on my OEM dash harness since I do not have points and going to a EFI?
2. I do not need a voltage regulator on my OEM dash harness since the upgraded alternator has one built in?
3. I do not need to hook up the green and blue fields connectors on my OEM dash harness since it seem they to go back to the regulator?
4. Do I even mount the external voltage regulator and ballast resistor? leaving the plugs off and exposed on the OEM dash harness? Assuming I would tape them off?
5. I hook up the larger black wire (seems to be about a 10/12 gauge) from that same OEM dash harness to the output terminal on the 1 wire alternator? What is this wire doing exactly?
6. I ground the alternator from the larger bolt in the back of the alt to the engine using a 6 gauge wire?
7. I run the 6 gauge wire from the alternator output to the positive battery terminal and install the 200 amp inline fuse between them as per the instruction provided by painless
8. Because I have the larger 6 gauge wire coming off the alt output to the battery, that directs enough power to the battery and not put enough strain on the smaller black (from OEM engine harness) wire also attached to the alt output post that goes to the bulk head
9. I run a smaller 10/12 gauge wire from the 200 amp inline painless fuse ( that I mentioned in #7) to the positive post on the external solenoid
10. I attach the 10/12 gauge red wire from the other OEM harness that comes from the bulk head. Not sure what this is called but it includes to all the head lights, horns, etc.
11. I run another 6 gauge wire from the positive battery post directly to the mini starter I purchased from 440 source (which does not have a built in solenoid)
12. I ground the negative battery terminal somewhere on the engine block?
13. I ground the engine block to the car frame?


Sorry if this is long winded. Thanks in advance for your help. I have posted some pics below to show you what I have staged. Not everything is hooked up since it isn't complete clear on what I am doing. Main concern is burning up any wires.

I can grab more photos if needed.

 

[71charger_fan]

Your choice of ignition system dictates whether or not you need a ballast resistor. Nothing to do with the dash harness. The ballast is part of the engine harness. If you're running a Mopar electronic ignition system, you need a ballast resistor.

Your internally regulated alternator does mean you ditch the external regulator. With mine, I run a charging wire directly across the front of the engine to the battery.

I would recommend removing the entire engine harness and unwrap it. Take out the wires you no longer need, rewrap it, and put it back in. It's a little tedious, but not technically difficult.

 

[hpg4815]

Your choice of ignition system dictates whether or not you need a ballast resistor. Nothing to do with the dash harness. The ballast is part of the engine harness. If you're running a Mopar electronic ignition system, you need a ballast resistor.

Your internally regulated alternator does mean you ditch the external regulator. With mine, I run a charging wire directly across the front of the engine to the battery.

I would recommend removing the entire engine harness and unwrap it. Take out the wires you no longer need, rewrap it, and put it back in. It's a little tedious, but not technically difficult.

Thank you. That is a good idea on removing the un-needed harness components. I’ve gone a head and done that. One of the wires being removed went to one post of the ballast resistor. Pic attached.

I’m going to get the 6a msd ignition.

On the wire from the alt to the batter, is it too long to run the wire through the core support?

Thanks.

 

[not so famous bob]

Thank you. That is a good idea on removing the un-needed harness components. I’ve gone a head and done that. One of the wires being removed went to one post of the ballast resistor. Pic attached.

I’m going to get the 6a msd ignition.

On the wire from the alt to the batter, is it too long to run the wire through the core support?

Thanks.

View attachment 1375224

you wont need any of the chrysler stuff if you run and MSD , and a one wire alt., I have a 10 ga. wire from my 140 amp "chevy" alternator to the battery post on my relay , which is mounted close to where the fan motor used to stick out , the battery cable runs down the pass side to the battery "on the pass. side'' where its supposed to be for traction , over the right rear wheel.....
Its on an A body , tho , no room for a heater motor , with victor type heads ...