Dana 60 Yoke

[HEMI RR]

I purchased a Dana the other day for my 70 Roadrunner. My Roadrunner has a 426 Hemi auto right now with a 8 3/4. My plan was to install the rear with all new seals and shorten the drive shaft as required. The issue I encountered was the yoke on the Dana appears to be a 1310 yoke with U bolts that does not use the inside lock C clips. The size is 3 7/32" end to end. What application could this have been from? The rear is 1968-1970 B body size with a pinion snubber. The seller said it was in a 70 charger. The ring gear is 1968. The tube marking and BOM are not legible. I suppose I need to change the yoke to a 7290 type that uses the inside lock clips and U bolts. I understand that 7260 U joints are similar to the 1310 but they use inside locking clips. Any information is welcome.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Think I still have this yoke believe it's a 7290. One picture has 2 yokes the one on the right

is the same yoke in other pictures, note no groove where seal rides. No strap or bolts.

 

[HEMI RR]

Mine yoke presently on the 60 does not have the dust shield. Does that matter?

 

[silversedan]

the correct dana yoke has a little larger dirt slinger on it than a 8 3/4 one. If interested I have a new in the box Victory driveline parts dana yoke with straps etc. pm me if interested.

 

[HEMI RR]

I understand the U bolt design is stronger. So a dirt slinger is stock. I guess someone took off the original to fit to their application and the original yoke is gone. I guess I could consider 1350 U joint upgrades also since I need a new yoke and the driveshaft needs cut.

 

[wyrmrider]

you got it
use only deep case hardened dana/spicer joints
most everything else is induction hardened junk

 

[HEMI RR]

I decided on the 1350 route. The non greaseable with U bolts and forged Spicer yoke. That should hold up for a while. The yoke on there now is a 1310 outside lock type. Painted it satin black after a good power wash and I am presently installing new seals and all the gaskets. Thanks for all.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Just wondering about pinion preload changing yokes, could be to loose or to tight or just right?

 

[Ceedawg]

Just wondering about pinion preload changing yokes, could be to loose or to tight or just right?

Doesn’t matter, yoke still tightens against bearing, shins are on the inside

 

[Fran Blacker]

Doesn’t matter, yoke still tightens against bearing, shins are on the inside

Just thinking there might be a few thousandths difference and make pin load to lose or to fight.

 

[Cranky]

Pin load?

 

[Ceedawg]

Just thinking there might be a few thousandths difference and make pin load to lose or to fight.

You’re missing the point, a yoke is a yoke is a yoke, nothing changes. There is no crush sleeve unless it’s 2001? and up

 

[Fran Blacker]

Pin load?

I was lazy pin load = pinion preload, it was past my bed time. You happy now?

 

[Fran Blacker]

You’re missing the point, a yoke is a yoke is a yoke, nothing changes. There is no crush sleeve unless it’s 2001? and up

Was over thinking it. Manufacturing tolerances but it doesn't change anything, your correct.

 

[Cranky]

I was lazy pin load = pinion preload, it was past my bed time. You happy now?

Makes sense now that I'm awake too. Was already falling asleep at 10 pm! lol

 

[wyrmrider]

1350 best choice- do use the spicer joint and the one with the grease fitting in the cap works great
I WAS assleap right after the ball game
for those lurking later courtesy of Denny' driveshaft facs

What is the difference between 1310, 1330 and 1350 Series?

The "series" of a driveshaft or universal joint is determined by the actual dimensions of the u-joint.
While the front and rear u-joint can be of two different sizes the shaft is only as strong as the smaller one.
The 1310 series u-joint measures approximately 3 1/4 inches wide.
The 1330 and 1350 both measure approximately 3 5/8 wide.
The 1310 and 1330 series can have cap diameters of 1 1/16 and/or 1 1/8 inch or a combination of both sizes.
The 1350 series has a cap diameter of 1 3/16 inch and the body and journals are bigger than the 1310 or 1330.
Remember 1350 is almost never found in production car driveshafts.
Top

When is it necessary to upgrade to 1350 series?

It is always a good choice to upgrade to the 1350 series components whenever your application is used for racing or with high horsepower and street use. Stock driveshafts were designed to handle a modest amount of horsepower. If your application has more than 400 horsepower then its time to consider a new shaft.
Top

What is the difference between the Chrysler 7260 and 7290 series?

The 7260 and 7290 series are the two sizes that are commonly found on Chrysler products.
They represent the two stock sizes that have been used for many years.
The 7260 series is the “small” Chrysler u-joint size (2 1/8 inch between flats on yoke with 1.078 inch bearing cap diameter) and the 7290 series is the “big” Chrysler u-joint size (2 5/8 inch between flats on yoke with 1.125 inch bearing cap diameter).
The 7260 series is similar in size to the 1310 series and the 7290 is similar in size to the 1330 series.
They both utilize the inside “C” clip design to hold the u-joint within the yoke flats whereas the 1310 and 1330 use the outside snap ring design.

How tight should I tighten my u-bolts?

1310 series and 1330 series should be tightened to 17 ft/lbs and
1350 series to 20 ft/lbs.
You should never tighten the nuts on any u-bolt excessively.
This will cause the cap to distort and the u-joint will fail prematurely.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Recently bought 2 spicer 1350/1330 by mistake. Needed 2 -1330's so just ordered a 1330 and switched cups on other u-joints so I made another 1330 that I needed and a 1350 that I didn't need. To much trouble to return the my screw up.
Back in the 80's put a Dana 60 in my Satellite with a 1330 yoke. A friend had a 68 GTX driveshaft with 7290 u-joints bought it. Bought a 1330 u-joint pulled the cups off the 7290 and put 1330 cups on, worked fine. Auto parts store loaned me their u-joint spec book and that's how I figured out the combination would work. The only difference between 1330, 7290 and 1350 u-joints are the cups diameter. I know there will be disagreement on this but I've done the combinations I've described .

 

[wyrmrider]

you not only have to compare the od of the cups and snap rings
but
you have to compare the dia of the crosses
they vary
you got lucky
great info

also from Denny's driveshaft
"We also have replacement u-bolt style pinion yokes to replace your weak strap style OEM yoke and still use your existing driveshaft.
Great upgrade for that extra bit of insurance so that you won’t break those tiny “valve cover” 1/4 inch bolts that are found on all OEM style Chrysler product pinion yokes."

 

[66Satellite47]

I had 1330 joints in my 3500# 550+ HP car for thousands of runs, always good. BUT I would still always go with the 1350.

 

[HEMI RR]

In the process I noticed the prior owner of the Dana had the T block mounted on the passenger side and the vent tube was correctly mounted on the drivers side with the star washer there just free hanging. They welded a very small pad with a 5/16 bolt through the small sized T block. I will need to reuse my old correct sized T block and will take you guys' advice and install all new brake lines and hose from front to back for the rear brakes.