Darn Fuel Pump Pushrod Rusted In Place

[haywire 440]

This rusty ‘78 440 Pursuit engine was soaked in the infamous molasses mix for a few months last year and a few parts came off easily. But then the removal of the camshaft was more difficult as expected. Actually after spraying Aerokroil on the camshaft bearing for like a month and removing the rear plug the camshaft was persuaded to move with a heavy hammer and now moves easily.

Now for the Pushrod.
Unfortunately after using Aerokroil for many months that pushrod will not budge even after using a vice grip, no turning, even after banging on the tip of the pushrod with a hammer and punch, not even with banging the camshaft into it as the camshaft is moved back and forth can free it.

My next thought is to use a torch to heat up the block but not too much. If the pushrod area is heated up and the rod does break free would it be advisable to then spray water on the block to cool it down? Should I heat up just the pushrod, which would expand it or just the block which then a vice grip would be attached and ready to attempt to turn the rod?

Oh, and the lifters were also soaked with Aerokroil and they all have been pushed up and out of the way of the camshaft.

 

[pnora]

Unless that block is some special numbers matching block I would deep six it.

 

[haywire 440]

It is for this vehicle which I have shown here a while back. It has a title too.

 

[PRHeads]

You’re already this far along……. I’d try some heat.

 

[pnora]

It is for this vehicle which I have shown here a while back. It has a title too.

View attachment 2008672

Weld something to it so you can use a slide hammer on it.

 

[pnora]

You could also try welding a threaded rod to it and put some washers and a nut on and try pulling it out.

 

[haywire 440]

You could also try welding a threaded rod to it and put some washers and a not on and try pulling it out.

Your two ideas are good, I hadn’t thought of. Thanks. A combination with the heat, if needed.

 

[QuickBpBp]

Weld a nut onto the end of it. That way you can heat it and turn it. Then you can also screw a bolt to it to try and free it up through the plug hole access.

 

[Sedbld]

Definitely gonna watch here. I have a 67 440HP with the same problem. Please keep us updated on your progress.

 

[rickseeman]

If you are going to build the block it needs to go to the hot tank anyway. I don't know if that would help get it out but it's a no cost try. I like the weld/slide hammer idea.

 

[Dodge33]

It's been a long time...... and was getting ready to rebuild a pair of frozen 66 T bird 2 piece calipers, and went and bought some
dry ice, and left it sit inside the piston pucks
for about 30 or so minutes, maybe more time
IDK, but kept working them back and forth with channel locks, and they the pistons came out. Be careful with the dry ice!

I definitely would not leave the ice on it overnight, be their with it when using it.

 

[dvw]

Heat the push rod itself. Get it red, then quench it with water in a spray bottle. Same idea as removing stubborn stud or block plugs by welding to them. It'll come out.
Doig

 

[66 Cornpicker]

What Doug said and spray a mix of 50%auto trans fluid and 50%acetone to creep in there. And where do you buy a new pushrod ? I need one !

 

[RR Fan Dan]

440 Source

Fuel Pump Pushrods-store.440source.com

And where do you buy a new pushrod

 

[66 Cornpicker]

Thanks Dan !

 

[haywire 440]

Heat the push rod itself. Get it red, then quench it with water in a spray bottle. Same idea as removing stubborn stud or block plugs by welding to them. It'll come out.
Doig

I used the @dvw method and heated up the rod red hot then cooled with water several times, six or seven.

Every few times the vice grips were used to try turning the rod. The camshaft was also hammered back and forth to shock the rod inside the block. Finally the vice grips rotated the rod slightly. The last trick was utilizing the battery operated Craftsman Impact Wrench to try to turn the camshaft, which had been tried prior to the torch heat without success, and holy sh!t the camshaft moved lifting the rod.

Using a screwdriver to pry between the block and vice grips the fuel pump rod kept moving upward until it was free.

Then I saw that the rod had snapped in the block. In this case the camshaft was hammered a little to back off the pressure on the little broken piece and it dropped out onto the metal caster under the block with a distinctive clink. All’s good and the camshaft is out.

Two after thoughts, 1st the the rod could have broken because of the hammering straight down on the head with steel punches before hand and brass punches today or it was the sideways hits with the camshaft on either side of the fuel pump lob. 2nd thought is that the other techniques mentioned probably would have worked too. While heating the pump rod red hot one of the times the tip started melting so cautiously and slowly heat it. Use a lower flame, my mistake was wanting to speed things up. I did heat up along the block rod path but ever so slightly.

I glad for all of your advice and experience. I appreciate you!

 

[DieselPower]

I'm curious how the pushrod bore looks.

 

[haywire 440]

I'm curious how the pushrod bore looks.

The tappets are still in the block. They were sprayed with Aerokroil many times and then punched up far enough to get the camshaft out. I figured that pounding them back down through the bore would be good because the bottom side was probably mushroomed. I’m thinking that a good way to do it. Or continue spraying them for a while and then try twisting them too until everything loosens up.

I guess that is my next question, any suggestions?

 

[Thunderdan]

The tappets are still in the block. They were sprayed with Aerokroil many times and then punched up far enough to get the camshaft out. I figured that pounding them back down through the bore would be good because the bottom side was probably mushroomed. I’m thinking that a good way to do it. Or continue spraying them for a while and then try twisting them too until everything loosens up.

I guess that is my next question, any suggestions?

hammer/slide them out the bottom. they make take a *Little* heat to slide down, but do not even come close to getting the lifter or block orange-hot. And might take a bit of tranny fluid dribbled on them to help out a bit in the process once it's warm. Do not spray cold water on very hot cast iron as you're running the risk of cracking it.

Moreover, I also have a '78 Pursuit engine in my A38 Monaco so curious to know; did you find any interesting parts in it? Double roller chain, I'm sure, but anything else heavy duty? Any chance you can grab a rough caliper reading of the old cam? It should be the same .450 lift one from the late '60's Magnum era 440s.

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

I've driven lifters out of blocks with an air hammer from the top down. Also driven cams out with the bearings attached to them.

However, if a block requires this level of disassembly, it's usually not one that I plan to use for myself.

Tom