• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Dash light nstays on!!

bschomske

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:21 AM
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
268
Reaction score
168
Location
rochester new york
The problem with my 69 rr is that the dash lights stay on..When I move the dimmer switch on the dash, the lights do not brighten.But you can turn on the dome light.I don't know if my switch is the problem or not.So any help would be great!!
 
I know you said you have a new dash cluster so it's obvious you have been moving/disturbing the harness and associated connections. I want to confirm of a few things first. Do the lights stay on with the ignition key off and the light switch off? There are a few other lights on this circuit, some are options but if you have them (working ash tray light, Clock light, Tach light and steering column shift indicator light) are they also stuck on? What you have is probably a short but a faulty headlight switch or a short in your wiring harness or your new cluster could also be the cause. Everything is suspect. We have to start somewhere. If you look at the drawing you can follow a few thing that happen.
1. Constant battery is applied to the headlight switch on the Black/Tracer wire (Black-TR on the drawing)
2. When the headlight is turned on, power leaves the headlight switch on a Black wire which goes to the dimmer switch, marked "panel light switch" on the drawing.
3. Power leaves the dimmer switch on the tan wire and goes to one side of the fuse.
4. From the other side of the fuse, power is delivered to the cluster on an orange wire, to pin #1 of the round cluster connector.
If your lights are on all the time, you have power on pin #1 of the dash cluster connector at all times and that is wrong.
You need to get a test light to verify voltages at the points that will be tested. I would work backwards starting at pin #1 of the cluster connector. Check it first with the connector attached to the printed circuit board. I'm sure you will have 12V at that point but test everything and assume nothing. Next, gently pull the round connector off the cluster and check pin #1 again.
If you feel comfortable, continue testing back. If not, post what you find and we'll go from there.
69 Dash Lights.JPG
 
I have a similar problem in that I cannot control the brightness. I'm sure my problem is the switch. I replaced the resistor spring once to no avail, but suspect I may have used the wrong spring. Will try again in spring.

Is your switch original?
Have you pulled and inspected it?
 
The dash lights stay on all the time that the battery is hooked up.So when i drive the car and want to park or leave for the day..I have to unhook the battery...Thanks for all of the help so far....I'm sure with the smart people on this site I should be able to get a direction to go in.....Thanks again... also the switch is original,
 
There's no magic fix to this but it is very repairable. You are looking for the source of the constant power to the dash cluster. If you want to methodically test you should start as close to one end of the circuit as possible as I described above. But, here's one easy test that may narrow it down.
There is a fuse for the instrument panel lights. Pull the fuse and observe the lights. Now with your test light, check the prongs that hold the fuse. Observe the side that lights the test light. Report back which side lights the test light (the prongs that are closest to the mounting screw or the prongs farthest from the mounting screw).

Fuse box ll.JPG
 
I'm betting your problem is in the switch. Replacements are available, but VERY pricey. I'd pull and inspect it. I'll bet it's an easy fix.
 
Yea there is a guy on ebay that rebuilds these switchs for 75.00.But I don"t want to do that until I know that it is the switch.My problem right now is its winter and I don't have a heated garage.Plus I don't have a test light to do the things that Shorthorse has suggested..So I will be taking all this advice and looking into this spring...But I just thought I would put it out there..But Thank you very,very much Shorthorse..You have given me alot of information to check..I plan on copying this page and reading it over and over..I don't do electric,but with this information I can talk to a good friend who can help me out...I will let you know when I start on it.Plus I maybe asking more questions....Thanks again....Bruce temperture 15 degrees
 
Thinking out loud (again)...I'd suggest making sure the switch is wired right.
 
Yea there is a guy on ebay that rebuilds these switchs for 75.00.But I don"t want to do that until I know that it is the switch.My problem right now is its winter and I don't have a heated garage.Plus I don't have a test light to do the things that Shorthorse has suggested..So I will be taking all this advice and looking into this spring...But I just thought I would put it out there..But Thank you very,very much Shorthorse..You have given me alot of information to check..I plan on copying this page and reading it over and over..I don't do electric,but with this information I can talk to a good friend who can help me out...I will let you know when I start on it.Plus I maybe asking more questions....Thanks again....Bruce temperture 15 degrees

I agree about the weather. You can get a test light at about any chain auto parts store cheap. It's a good investment. Keep in mind, it's better and less $$$ to know exactly where a problem originates than to throw money at parts, guessing what the problem is. The fact that you changed the instrument cluster and that's when your issue started is suspect. Good luck and keep us posted. We'll be here.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top