• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Decoding Big Block ID pad

74Satellite

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:10 AM
Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Messages
628
Reaction score
5
Location
Syracuse, NY
Hey guys I just picked up a complete big block engine and trans from an old New Yorker from a local junk yard for $200.

I got it home and am trying to get as much information from the numbers as possible.

THe block casting number is 4006530 which I have researched to be a 400 Cu In B series motor from 1976-78. Which means a cast crank, thin walled 400.

The I lightly sanded off the ID pad by the distributor and it states

7 400
2 41
E

I am assuming the 7 means 1977 and 400 of course being the engine size.

What I dont know are what the "2", "41", and the "E" stand for. Can anyone lend some assistance?

Thanks!
 
After reading my own post, would I be correct in thinking the "E" would mean "End"?
 
under normal circumstances the Alpha character would signify what year car it was used in (which is not necessarily the same as the casting date) but "E" would be for a 70 I think, and there were no 400s in 70. Also, numbers arranged like the "2 41" would usually signify the build date of the motor. But as we all know there aren't 41 days in February. (there's 43...right??:rolling: ) And again, generally speaking, they didn't use a number on the ID pad to signify the year. That's what the Alpha character is for.

SO...any chance you can post a pic?
 
Letters are real hard to make out, Ill see what I can do.

Give me a few minutes.
 
This is the best I could do

DSCF7751.jpg

YOu can barely make out the bottom of the 7 in the top left, you can see the 4 in 400 also on the top row.
If you look closely in the middle of the pad you can make out the 2 and the 41 (blurry but there)

and the E is on the bottom left a little blurry.

DSCF7751.jpg
 
Ok I think I figured it out, after some more research (picking up a book I had in the bookcase) I think I have it deciphered. After reading a bit I went back out to the engine and sure enough there is a barely legible T right after the 7 which according to the book "7T" = 1977 Model Year. The 400 is the engine size.

THe 2 is the month of manufacture or February, I cant make out the day and the "41" is the number engine that was built that day. So it was 41st engine built on february ??.

THe "E" stands for Cast Crankshaft and to the right of the E is a maltese cross which means it has a 0.001 in undersized crankshaft.

This all make sense to you guys? And why would it have a .001 undersized crank?
 
ok need a tip guys, I have been tearing down this 400 for the last 2 days now, off and on of course. I have everything removed except for the majority of the rotating assembly. I have removed ALL the main caps and 4 of the rod caps, I have 1 complete piston assembly knocked out completely. A second is sticking out with 2 rings exposed and a third is sticking out with 1 ring exposed.

There is 1 piston that is completely froze in its bore( this cylinder was half full of water (I think this is the one that had the open valve?) I filled the top of the cylinder with marvel mystery oil and let it sit over night. Today I took a piece of wood and a rubber mallet and beat on it a bit and it wont budge. Because this piston is stuck I cant get the crank to turn at all.

Any pointers on getting this piston out or to get the crank to turn enough to get the rest of the piston/roc combos out so I can pull the crank and then knock this particular one up into the crankcase backwards?
 
Use some stuff in a black, white, and yellow can called Break Free or something like that. It smells really bad, but it will break that piston free. There might also be a big ridge in the cylinders that will keep them from coming out the top. If that's the case, then take everything lose, lift the crank out, then knock the slugs out the bottom instead of the top.
 
Try Kroil if you can find it. Just be aware, that piston didn't get stuck like that overnite and the penetrating oil should be given time to work. Tranny fluid also works fairly well.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top