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Deep pan for the 727

bigmanjbmopar

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Anyone using a aftermarket deep pan for your 727? Is there any advantage to getting a finned pan that can have an extra 2 qts to it? Looking for ways to cool the fluid besides adding a trans cooler does a deeper pan help?
 
I got a finned pan from Summit, it's just as good as the high priced name brand pans, but half the price. I mainly got it for the fact the aluminum pans have a machined mating surface. I threw the old leaky stamped steel pan away. pick up a mother Mopar reusable gasket also.
 
A deeper aluminum pan will help cool the fluid to some extent but not a significant amount-JMHO
 
Would a fluid cooler up front and a deep pan cut the temps down?
 
Would a fluid cooler up front and a deep pan cut the temps down?

Of course it would.
Make sure you use BOTH the radiator and the additional cooler in series with one another. The front line goes to the radiator, then out to the cooler and return to the rear line of trans.
Also, some of the trans pans have cooling tubes running through them to allow slip stream air to travel through and aid in cooling of the trans fluid. I have never used one, but the manufactures claims it reduces heat.
Your results may very:spam1:... LOL
 
hmm run lines in series, I never thought of that have to ask my trans shop since they will be doing all the work. Going to get new stall and might as well get deeper pan and cooler. wonder if I should get trans temp gauge too while i'm at it.

Next question. Would overheated trans fluid cause so much of a load on the motor that you would loose power / performance?(stock stall)(maybe a shift kit installed seems to shift better manually than in drive, in drive is shifts 1,2,3 by 25 mph) seems that i loose some off throttle response once everything is at temp. Motor runs at 180-195 but seems to bog down after only a few minutes of driving even just cruising.
 
Do you have the kick down hooked up? Improper adj of this can cause shift points to come in too early......just as you described!
Is your fluid burnt,,,, Brown and kind of toaster smelly? If it's still a nice red color, I would think it's probably not over heating.... A temp guage would tell the whole story however....
 
yeah kick down is hooked up, not adjusted right i know since the motor swap. the 383 did the same thing when shifting and it was installed never knew if it was right or not. when the 493 went it and the eddy carb went on i tired to use it again but it hit the air cleaner so i took it off, since then i have raised the carb 3/4" with spacer and gaskets so now it's back on and clears, never really knew how to adjust that right anyway. maybe let the trans shop guys mess with it.

How is it supposed to be adjusted? I have it starting to go back around 3/4 throttle and all the way at full. seems like it should be starting at first throttle movement?

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Well,,, I think the old dealer service manuals will have you measuring trans fluid pressure to adj this, but I would just move the linkage back untill I got what feels right for shift points.
 
According to the manual----put a 3/16" drill bit in the holes in bellcrank to lock it up.Pop off rear rod at bellcrank,pull up as far as it will go,then turn it on the threads till ball&socket line up,pop it on. Throttle at idle on throttle plates(not on cold idle steps on fast idle cam) then adjust trans throttle rod until rear end of slot just slides onto throttle pin. Se, it all comes back even after 30+ yrs.( My manual is at a buddy's house)Pull out drill bit & ur rdy to go.
 
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