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Difference in the ‘68 Coronet 500 tail panel emblem while replacing it with a R/T emblem

haywire 440

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I have a nice tail panel, it’s for sale, and I see the black dots on the back that need to be ground down to remove the 500 emblem. My two questions are,
1. Are the locating pins on the R/T emblem in the same location as the 500 pins?
2. Is the R/T emblem held on with pins that go in clips?

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The R/T emblem has pins and the inside pin is farther inward than the entire 500 emblem, so drilling is required to install the R/T emblem.
 
Yup. the locations are different..But the R/T emblem will cover the 500 emblem holes... Unfortunately the Repo R/T emblem fit like crap....The contour is wrong & it leaves a couple pretty unsightly gaps....
 
Yup. the locations are different..But the R/T emblem will cover the 500 emblem holes... Unfortunately the Repo R/T emblem fit like crap....The contour is wrong & it leaves a couple pretty unsightly gaps....
The fact that the R/T emblem will hide the hole is very helpful.

The other question, as presented to me by a member interested in it, arises because he said the R/T emblem he has mounts with clips that the pin goes in. Maybe that is a reproduction and why it sits cattywampus.
 
So, I bought a repo many years ago, the posts are longer than a original emblem... If you attach the emblem with some kind of clip the posts are so long they would contact the body panel and push the panel out from when it is supposed to live...

Anyway what I did was grind away the posts down to the step which is the stock height... Then I drill the remaining posts to accept 10-32 screws...

After doing all, that the emblem fit like crap, so I started looking real hard at restoring my original emblem.... But then I happened to see an NOS tail panel emblem on Ebay.... The original & the NOS emblems fit perfect... And yes, I drilled & tapped the NOS emblem too...
 
Not sure if this will help or not, but I posted it a few years ago…
I made a simple tool for putting a mushroom head on the posts that works kind of like the factory method.
I took a new three inch long bolt, I think it was three eighths of an inch, but the exact size doesn’t matter. I put it in the drill press and cut the head off, then reversed it so that end was in the chuck. The other end, where the threads are, is slightly indented from the threading process. If you spin it at high speed and use the press to give you down pressure it does a reasonable job of mushroom heading the post.
Your results may vary. The most difficult part would be mounting the tail light panel in your press.
 
So, I bought a repo many years ago, the posts are longer than a original emblem... If you attach the emblem with some kind of clip the posts are so long they would contact the body panel and push the panel out from when it is supposed to live...

Anyway what I did was grind away the posts down to the step which is the stock height... Then I drill the remaining posts to accept 10-32 screws...

After doing all, that the emblem fit like crap, so I started looking real hard at restoring my original emblem.... But then I happened to see an NOS tail panel emblem on Ebay.... The original & the NOS emblems fit perfect... And yes, I drilled & tapped the NOS emblem too...
I grabbed up a bunch of nos stuff for my Coronet 500 Convertible back when everyone was cloning them to an R/T. The 500 stuff wasn't much demand. I got the grille emblem, rear tail panel emblem and all 4 pieces of the quarter panel scoop trim. Other stuff similar to the R/T had to pay up for Nos door handles, tips, pot metal well trim, tail lights etc. I am glad I did cause now as some are doing just what I want. Leave it a stock looking 500 except I am putting the bulged hood on and just changing the driveline. So pretty much leaving the body a stock looking 500. Most of these types of nos parts are very hard to find and when it pops up it's very expensive.
 
Back in the 70's the was a neighbor around the corner from where I lived that had a 68 Coronet 500 that for some reason had a bulge hood... Little old lady drove it, she and he husband bought it new... He's since passed but the car wasn't special, just for some reason it got a bulge hood... Always wondered about that car...
 
Back in the 70's the was a neighbor around the corner from where I lived that had a 68 Coronet 500 that for some reason had a bulge hood... Little old lady drove it, she and he husband bought it new... He's since passed but the car wasn't special, just for some reason it got a bulge hood... Always wondered about that car...
Mine is yellow with a black top, Black Bucket seat console car... I saw one other that was a 383 car and the guy said that hood was original to the car but who knows it's such a simple swap and if it was the original color could go undetected back then. I have accumulated most of the parts even a mint decklid from Texas and a hood that was off of a Drag car back in the 70's that the guy went to glass. I am hoping to do it when life slows down. I am debating on keeping it the same color or making it Triple black as that is one of my favorite 68-70 B-body..
 
Yeah, it was odd, she insisted it was on the car when they bought it & if the dealer had swapped it they would have charged for it... Unless someone bought an R/T and didn't want the hood... Doubt that...
 
Actually found a pic of mine next to the mechanical Grape harvester I used to operate when I was a commercial grape grower. When that machine came from Germany there was only 2 in the US at the time one in Pa. and one in New York. Over all a very solid car other than a horrible paint job that they even painted the wheel well trim! Not to mention it needs redone anyway.. The guy I got it from only had the ignition key and he torched straight through the decklid to see if there was anything in the trunk worth getting. He did this in his garage next to a nice Chevelle. I asked him what would have done if the trunk floor was rotted and the sparks went into the gas tank? He said oh I didn't really think of that...
Sorry for side tracking the original OP...

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