Disc brake conversion problems

Fury wedge

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Have installed and bled five different master cylinders on 64 fury with newly rebuilt booster, 18 pounds of vacuum when I start car and brake pedal goes to floor every time
 

toolmanmike

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I moved this thread too.
 

Fran Blacker

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Caliper bleeders at the highest mounting point? Pushrod the right length?
 

Don Frelier

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Something else is likely the problem
What does the pedal do without the engine running?
If you put both feet on the pedal and press hard, what happens?
 

Ron H

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Did you car have power brakes before? There's a difference with the pedal ratio btw the manual and power setup. also check the gap btw the booster rod and the MC. Adding a booster may require lengthening the pedal rod due to the booster bracket .
 

Don Frelier

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Then you likely have a leak somewhere or air in the system.
Check everything if you don't see a leak then pull the rear drums and look at the wheel cylinders.
 

747mopar

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I've had vehicles that I could never get the air out of until I bought a vacuum bleeder, solved the problem.
 

Don Frelier

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If you can't get the pedal to pump up and hold pressure off the floor then it's likely you have a leak.
You can prove it by repeatedly letting it sink to the floor and see if the reservoir level drops.
Usually if you have any amount of air you wont feel pedal pressure at the top.
 

Fury wedge

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I've had vehicles that I could never get the air out of until I bought a vacuum bleeder, solved the problem.
If you can't get the pedal to pump up and hold pressure off the floor then it's likely you have a leak.
You can prove it by repeatedly letting it sink to the floor and see if the reservoir level drops.
Usually if you have any amount of air you wont feel pedal pressure at the top.
 

Ron H

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Offering replies can be a broad brush without knowing the gritty details and how much experience one has that might insult their intelligence; is what it is. Is this a front disk vert only or all four? If it's front only, another issue could be the rear drums adjusted correctly and able to self-adjust. Have the prop open (to check the action of the disk pads - moving freely with pedal action). If they're binding up this can be a cause of pedal sink.
 

Demonic

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May be a two pronged problem. Disc cars used a dual--diaphragm booster from the factory, drum cars used a single diaphragm booster. It does matter, and affect pedal feel.
 

59pwrwgn

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When I fix up my power wagon I add a booster to it with an adjustable rod. It had a fair amount of travel but stopped well. When I upgraded to front discs, I pulled the residual valve on of the master , not changing anything else. First trip out the brakes would go almost to the floor and then it seemed to stop good. I bled the system multiple times. Didn't fix it. I drilled my brake pedal for 4 to 1 power ratio instead of 6 to 1 manual. It solved my ploblem.
 

Fury wedge

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If you can't get the pedal to pump up and hold pressure off the floor then it's likely you have a leak.
You can prove it by repeatedly letting it sink to the floor and see if the reservoir level drops.
Usually if you have any amount of air you wont feel pedal pressure at the top.
Have installed and bled five different master cylinders on 64 fury with newly rebuilt booster, 18 pounds of vacuum when I start car and brake pedal goes to floor every time
 

Fury wedge

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Has anyone used the ram mans dual bendix booster and master on a 1964 fury for powered front disc and rear drums or the one speedway sells. Not having any luck using single diaphragm, just rebuilt, booster. All comments appreciated so I can resolve this issue with brakes
 

69a100

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I don't know why you're quoting people without comment, I guess the cat's got your tongue?? Good Luck
 
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