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Distributor help please! Mechanical advance

Mopar-Charger

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I have the Mopar Performance electronic Ignition on my mild 360. For the past few weeks the over all performance has crashed. I checked the timing vacuum timing works fine, but that's where it stops. If I go WOT it stays where the vacuum maxed out at?

I was doing some research and a lot of the time the mechanical advance springs are bad? Do i need to replace them or put some weaker ones in?

Please help

Thanks,

Jake
 
Jake,
If you point a timing light at the balancer, (with the vacuum advance line removed and plugged) what is the timing at idle? When you slowly rev the motor, does the timing mark move?
If the mark doesn't move when you rev it (no need to go over 3,000 rpm or so) it's an indication that the mechanical advance weights are probably stuck. Unless you messed with the springs before it started running bad, those aren't the problem. You can take the distributor cap off and grab the rotor and turn it. When you let go it should snap back, showing that the weights are free and the springs are in place. If it doesn't snap back, a few well placed shots of WD-40 (with a straw) aimed at the weight pivots should help. If not, it's pretty easy to disassemble it and clean and lube everything. Good luck.
 
Adding and removing the Vacuum advanced didn't change how it idled? I had the timing at 13 degrees above the 0 in the timing belt that read -10 0 10 My timing is at 13. According to that <-

When I took out the vacuum advanced, it didn't change and when I added it no change at all. However it would still advnace by 10 degrees when i brought it to 3000 Rpms.
 
The vacuum advance is not changing because its not getting vacuum. Right now dont even focus on that. If your base timing is at 13 degrees and goes to 23 at 3k
rpm, try seeing where it is at 4k rpm. It returns to 13 at
Idle correct?
 
Once it hits 23 degrees and I rev it up it stays at 23 degrees and doesn't go higher. When i let off the throttle it does go back to 13.

Do I need to adjust the diaphragm in the vacuum canister?
 
No. Forget the vacuum advance right now. You are having a mechanical advance issue. You only have 10degrees of mechanical advance. The mopar performance unit is adjustable. But a pain to get to. The mechanical advance plate is below the pick up and vacuum advance plate.

- - - Updated - - -

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Jake,
We are duplicating effort here. I'm going to post the PMs you have been exchanging with me so that the rest of us might learn from your problem and hopefully. the solution. No more PMs please.




Quote Originally Posted by coloradodave - 09-08-2014 04:43 PM

Jake,
Is your motor completely stock?
If not, what all has been done to it?
Did you take off the distributor cap and try to turn the rotor?
If so, did it 'snap' back?
Your last statement said it would advance 10 degrees if you rev it. If I understand you, your initial timing is 13* and when you rev it you are getting 10* more, for a total advance of 23* when reved?

Please answer these questions one at a time and we'll see if we can get you fixed up.
Dave



Quote Originally Posted by Mopar-Charger - 09-08-2014 05:29 PM

I have upgraded Cam - Purple shaft .509" lift
Dual Plane perfomer Intake
750 Holley

I did that and the rotor did snap back, well it wouldn't torn freely*

Yes It started at 13 I with throttle it would go up to 23 total timing. Not sure if the timing is close to what it should be? I had to place a piece of tape on harmonic balancer because the stock hash mark would be under the water pump when i tried to look at it. However TDC was still at 0.

Right now it runs fine low end, no smoke, stuttering, but the top lags per-say. It used to climb quickly through the RPMs now it just takes it's sweet old time.

Jake,
Since the rotor snapped back we can assume that the advance mechanism is working. The rotor will only turn about 1/8 of a turn due to the advance stops. It sounds like someone may have modified the distributor so that the advance is limited to 10*, which is a very common tuning trick.
Your total advance is not near enough at 23*. You should have about 34-36* total, which is pretty much impossible to tell if you can't see the timing mark. It's also possible that the outer ring on the balancer may have 'slipped' and that's why the marks don't line up.
Here's what I would do:
1) Get the motor up to operating temperature.
2) Loosen the distributor hold down bolt until you can turn the distributor.
3) Advance the timing by turning the distributor 1/4" CCW (small block) and then snug the bolt down.
4) Shut motor off and let sit for 3-4 minutes.
5) Restart motor.
6) If motor turns over easily and starts, repeat above (#3, 4 & 5).
7) At some point, the motor won't want to turn over or will try and kick back. When this happens, turn distributor back the other way 1/4". This point will be your best initial advance.
8) Road test the car to make sure there is no 'ping' on acceleration.
9) Let me know what happens. I wouldn't be surprised if the initial ends up being 20-24*.

After this, you need to find out why your timing marks are so far off. Save it for another day.
Dave
 
One thought, since I don't think it's been mentioned.

>I did that and the rotor did snap back, well it wouldn't torn freely*<

On any advance, but critical on a mechanical advance, sounds like the advance rotor could be dry, and dragging. Those things need to be taken apart, cleaned and lubed using a high-temp grease. I guess you can still buy that stuff.
 
I would be happy having only 10 degrees of mechanical advance if i were you.
You should be seeing or setting the total between 34-38 degrees i would think.
I would see how high i could set the initial timing till it kicked the starter back @ 'operating temp' and then back the timing off a couple degrees from there and set it, thats usually where it will make its best low end punch. After the initial is set, then adjust the mechanical advance to only add as many degrees as it takes to be at it's full advance sweet spot like mentioned above= 34-38 mech adv
just my advice.
 
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