Distributor Replacement Referral - Joe's Mopar Distributor Restoration?

[road robert]

Hello Mopar Gurus & Geeks:

Has anyone bought from or had refurb dione by Joe's Mopar Distributor Restoration? I found him by Google search and talked with him this afternoon, seems like a standup guy and can give you what you want (stock, OEM/NOS, custom, points or electronic) complete with vacuum advance module, rotor & cap including a curve according to your setup (engine/trans) and he asked for cam type, vacuum reading and initial timing. For a stock looking replacement for me plug & play $375 + shipping. He does NOT want my old one returned for the core or credit (it does not have a tag not so sure where it came from).

P.S. I see that I have a purple cam from looking down the hole with the distributor removed - any way to tell which one is in there?

*My distributor is worn out - shaft has a lot of vertical movement and horizontal wobble - rotor is hitting cap contacts making a debris field! It ran good from MA to Carlisle then at Carlisle car starting acting up and a bunch of guys looked at it and determined it's end of life. It did get me home, ran poorly then OK on and off...

Thank you!

road robert

 

[65CopCar]

I have not bought from him, but interfaced with him. I was impressed with his customer service and care to do things right.

 

[hunt2elk]

Another option would be member HALIFAXHOPS on this site. Good guy, and does quite a bit of distributor work for the FXBO members.

 

[toolmanmike]

Another option would be member HALIFAXHOPS on this site. Good guy, and does quite a bit of distributor work for the FXBO members.

The only option.

 

[toolmanmike]

I have seen some of Joe's work. I wasn't impressed. Like lipstick on a pig. Spray it with brake clean and throw some parts at it is what I saw.

 

[R413]

$375 for what distributor?

Aluminum single point
Aluminum electronic
Cast iron
Dual point

 

[71RRHI]

Nothing against Joe's distributor restoration. I would recommend @HALIFAXHOPS . Great customer service, active member onFBBO. Easy to get a hold of. You can call or just PM here. Most important he really knows what he is doing. I'm sure many members will agree. Hey Rob do you want to bet on it.

 

[Geoff 2]

Probably just as good as Bill's dist resto.....

For the price, you can get a dist from Summit for half the price, with adj vac adv with full warranty.

 

[AR67GTX]

I started rebuilding my own. Bought a bunch of 1/2” brass bushings, found clip, screw and wire reproduction small parts sources and went after it. Unless it’s a rusted mess with a rusted cam they can usually be fixed up to work fine again without much trouble. Of course if the shaft is bad or points plate worn out or cam bad that’s a job for someone with a large spare parts cache.

I would definitely recommend Ray (Halifaxhops)

 

[Macdon221]

Halifax Hops all the way for your distributor.

 

[RJRENTON]

Hello Mopar Gurus & Geeks:

Has anyone bought from or had refurb dione by Joe's Mopar Distributor Restoration? I found him by Google search and talked with him this afternoon, seems like a standup guy and can give you what you want (stock, OEM/NOS, custom, points or electronic) complete with vacuum advance module, rotor & cap including a curve according to your setup (engine/trans) and he asked for cam type, vacuum reading and initial timing. For a stock looking replacement for me plug & play $375 + shipping. He does NOT want my old one returned for the core or credit (it does not have a tag not so sure where it came from).

P.S. I see that I have a purple cam from looking down the hole with the distributor removed - any way to tell which one is in there?

*My distributor is worn out - shaft has a lot of vertical movement and horizontal wobble - rotor is hitting cap contacts making a debris field! It ran good from MA to Carlisle then at Carlisle car starting acting up and a bunch of guys looked at it and determined it's end of life. It did get me home, ran poorly then OK on and off...

Thank you!

road robert

How about a link to his web site or an email address so we can view his work or at leasta phone number.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Nxcoupe]

Another recommendation for halifaxhops, gave him my distributor Saturday at Carlisle, he called me Thursday and it's on its way to me already. Ray is a member here and a veteran, 2 giid reasons to trust he'll do you right. Can't wait to get mine back and in the car so I can ditch the pertronix with the chevy-looking cap.

 

[71GTXdragpack]

Hello Mopar Gurus & Geeks:

Has anyone bought from or had refurb dione by Joe's Mopar Distributor Restoration? I found him by Google search and talked with him this afternoon, seems like a standup guy and can give you what you want (stock, OEM/NOS, custom, points or electronic) complete with vacuum advance module, rotor & cap including a curve according to your setup (engine/trans) and he asked for cam type, vacuum reading and initial timing. For a stock looking replacement for me plug & play $375 + shipping. He does NOT want my old one returned for the core or credit (it does not have a tag not so sure where it came from).

P.S. I see that I have a purple cam from looking down the hole with the distributor removed - any way to tell which one is in there?

*My distributor is worn out - shaft has a lot of vertical movement and horizontal wobble - rotor is hitting cap contacts making a debris field! It ran good from MA to Carlisle then at Carlisle car starting acting up and a bunch of guys looked at it and determined it's end of life. It did get me home, ran poorly then OK on and off...

Thank you!

road robert

another recommendation for Halifax. I haven't used him yet but intend to. He took the time to call me back about my concerns. He even offered to let me wait there while he rebuilt my distributor. He seems as passionate about his work as we are about our cars

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I started rebuilding my own. Bought a bunch of 1/2” brass bushings, found clip, screw and wire reproduction small parts sources and went after it. Unless it’s a rusted mess with a rusted cam they can usually be fixed up to work fine again without much trouble. Of course if the shaft is bad or points plate worn out or cam bad that’s a job for someone with a large spare parts cache.

I would definitely recommend Ray (Halifaxhops)

Totally agreed. Most of the times damages come from bushings and spacers worn and they are available. Not really hard to do at home if distributor is still in working order.

The original Nylon bottom retaining ring is not anymore available on market but can be replaced with aluminium pieces available at hardware stores. Just like this:

(I think they are available even flanged)


Shaft bushings just be sure they are “graphited” brass. This is the culprit of the reluctor being bitted by the pick-up coil, specially on Big Blocks. They get elongated allowing the horizontal play.

When reassembling just finish the axial adjustment with washer shims on top and bottom. As far I recall, 0.005-0.007” play is around the right value.

The next adjustment a bit harder to make is try to eliminate the pick-up coil plate play. Tipically replacements gets a lot of play all around the assembly. I use a home fix, using teflon tape on pivot stud to make it to fit a bit tight on plate hole.

I even have played with the pick up coil angle attack, bending the magnet bracket in and out, being sure won’t bite the reluctor in rest AND advanced position. The gap changes when pick-up coil moves and all around the trace, trying to keep the gap in between 0.010 and 0.013 in all the vacuum advance movement. Geometrically is not posible to keep the same ratio between pick-up coil and reluctor since the center is not shared, hence why I check the gap all along the advance move.


Now, the timing curve and limit adjustment… that’s a total diff story… I still have to learn about that to my make my Own MP(Mallory) dist adjustment with the springs and tabs kit on my engine.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Purple cam…

Remove one valve cover and measure the lift (intake and exhaust)… there is not a lot of purple cam grinds to check on the list… so the lift will be the only way to check which one could be with cam into the engine.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Totally agreed. Most of the times damages come from bushings and spacers worn and they are available. Not really hard to do at home if distributor is still in working order.

The original Nylon bottom retaining ring is not anymore available on market but can be replaced with aluminium pieces available at hardware stores. Just like this:

View attachment 1898365

(I think they are available even flanged)


Shaft bushings just be sure they are “graphited” brass. This is the culprit of the reluctor being bitted by the pick-up coil, specially on Big Blocks. They get elongated allowing the horizontal play.

When reassembling just finish the axial adjustment with washer shims on top and bottom. As far I recall, 0.005-0.007” play is around the right value.

The next adjustment a bit harder to make is try to eliminate the pick-up coil plate play. Tipically replacements gets a lot of play all around the assembly. I use a home fix, using teflon tape on pivot stud to make it to fit a bit tight on plate hole.

I even have played with the pick up coil angle attack, bending the magnet bracket in and out, being sure won’t bite the reluctor in rest AND advanced position. The gap changes when pick-up coil moves and all around the trace, trying to keep the gap in between 0.010 and 0.013 in all the vacuum advance movement. Geometrically is not posible to keep the same ratio between pick-up coil and reluctor since the center is not shared, hence why I check the gap all along the advance move.


Now, the timing curve and limit adjustment… that’s a total diff story… I still have to learn about that to my make my Own MP(Mallory) dist adjustment with the springs and tabs kit on my engine.

Watch them. I have seen them throw the hex lock. Get something you can use a roll pin with,