FOUND Divorced Choke for Holley 4160 - 1970 383 HP

[davek]

put a spacer on the intake and your all set, look at Mike pic.

 

[davek]

1/4 carb gasket

 

[davek]

 

[Charles Cook]

 

[rklewis1005]

A little concerned with doing that. My brother cracked the original baseplate and I had to get a new one. Will I have future issues getting a good seal?

 

[rklewis1005]

A little concerned with doing that. My brother cracked the original baseplate and I had to get a new one. Will I have future issues getting a good seal?

Before I do anything I want to confirm what the correct choke is for my 1970 383 HP. Is that what Mike's car is?

 

[Charles Cook]

Nope. There is hard spacers so you can’t over tighten it.

 

[Charles Cook]

I think the AVS carb takes a different one than the Holly.
You need the spacer or the carb will heat up from sitting on the thin gasket.

 

[Charles Cook]

I have two 383s both have the spacer/gasket and both chokes work like they should. You will find that you need the spacer for the clearance and proper setting.

 

[Charles Cook]

I think the one that you have is correct. All you need is the spacer or/gasket.

 

[R413]

This is the closest one I have. It hits in the carburetor so I can't get the screws in That's why I think the flat one shown in my first pic (Holley #32 or #97) as shown in David Wise's book would work best.

View attachment 1972993

Your choke is the correct style for 1970. They are different intakes and chokes from 68-69.

All 1970 BB engines use the 1/4" thick base gasket with those spacers in the holes. That's how to get the choke to fit. The intake has the open hole to the exhaust and it needs the cup and gasket under the choke thermostat. Don't overtighten it and it won't break the carb base.