Do I need a new alignment?

[superbeedave]

Hi guy's, I just replaced tires on my 69 Bee from P235/60-15 on all four wheels to fronts P225/70-15 and rears are now P235/70-15. The prior tires were 26.1 inches tall and now my new front ones are 27.4 and back ones are 28.0. After I went for my first test drive before making any kind of front end height adjustments I found the car was sort of wandering some s o I came home and adjusted the front end down to 1 5/8 and side to side difference is dead on. my measurement from ground to middle of wheel well opening is now 25 7/8 front and 27 1/8 back. After doing this car seems better but do I need a new alignment after going to taller tires? Car drives straight on the highway it just wanders some meaning I'm every so often turning the wheel a little to straighten back up. So what would be affected most by going to taller tires would it be the camber or caster? Thank you! Dave

 

[Jerry Hall]

The main thing you need another alignment for is the changes you made to the ride height in the frontend. Staggered tire height may make a minimal difference, but lowering the front will contribute to inside tire wear. A certain amount of camber is good for stability, but to much is tire wear.

 

[superbeedave]

The main thing you need another alignment for is the changes you made to the ride height in the frontend. Staggered tire height may make a minimal difference, but lowering the front will contribute to inside tire wear. A certain amount of camber is good for stability, but to much is tire wear.

Thank you!

 

[MoparLeo]

Most cars on the road are out of preferred alignment specs. The things that affect alignment changes are ride height changes, Condition of suspension components, . The alignment angle that allows the car to "pull" is caster and can cause minimal where if excessively out of specs. Camber angle and toe in/out are the main sources of tire wear and are usually not "felt" like caster is. So thinking that the alignment is good because the car goes straight when releasing the steering wheel is not true at all. But the tire people love to sell you more tires. If stability was good before the swap and you are using the same rims as before, check your tire pressures. The larger tires will need less pressure because of their increased load capacity. High air pressure can induce wandering at speed. To be sure though, I would have the complete alignment checked including camber, caster, toe, And thrust angle. All modern equipment measure those angles and a good alignment shop can adjust all angles. Don't go somewhere that only knows how to set the toe. On modern cars that is the only thing adjustable most of the time.

 

[superbeedave]

View attachment 774118 Most cars on the road are out of preferred alignment specs. The things that affect alignment changes are ride height changes, Condition of suspension components, . The alignment angle that allows the car to "pull" is caster and can cause minimal where if excessively out of specs. Camber angle and toe in/out are the main sources of tire wear and are usually not "felt" like caster is. So thinking that the alignment is good because the car goes straight when releasing the steering wheel is not true at all. But the tire people love to sell you more tires. If stability was good before the swap and you are using the same rims as before, check your tire pressures. The larger tires will need less pressure because of their increased load capacity. High air pressure can induce wandering at speed. To be sure though, I would have the complete alignment checked including camber, caster, toe, And thrust angle. All modern equipment measure those angles and a good alignment shop can adjust all angles. Don't go somewhere that only knows how to set the toe. On modern cars that is the only thing adjustable most of the time.

View attachment 774112

Thank you MoparLeo!

 

[dan juhasz]

Anytime ride height is changed ( like adjusting the torsion bars) there is an excellent chance of a small camber change with could equate to a large toe change. Tire sizes in my opinion don't have the same effect.

 

[Ron H]

As I recall, as mentioned in the post right above, is the toe-in factor can cause odd wandering and also the oem alignment spec's may not mate well when going to radial tires or any radical change in size. Also had issues with the wheel not returning to straight after turning; I had to move the wheel to get it back straight. I had this all written down and have to find this somewhere on my laptop as it was a friggin hassle when trying to get mine driving correct. Eventually I had a firm-feel box installed and the shop knew what they were doing with the alignment and came out perfectly. Anyway, I'm pretty sure the toe-in was part of the issue if memory is correct...if there's more to want to research I can find my notes..

 

[superbeedave]

Thanks for all the comments guy's. Now to find an alignment shop that knows old school Mopar alignments and are close to me in Cincinnati. The
guy that did my alignment a couple years ago doesn't run the tire discounters anymore. Since I have manual steering would I still shoot for -.5 on the caster
and +2.5 on camber and 1/16 - 1/8 on the toe in on the specs? Man I wish I would have mastered this years ago, this is one of those services best to do it yourself if you have the proper tools and some knowledge. I did raise the front end back up close to where it was before lowering down. I know the alignment's not too far off that's why I want to try and do it or check the alignment myself. Thanks, Dave

 

[ckessel]

View attachment 774118 Most cars on the road are out of preferred alignment specs. The things that affect alignment changes are ride height changes, Condition of suspension components, . The alignment angle that allows the car to "pull" is caster and can cause minimal where if excessively out of specs. Camber angle and toe in/out are the main sources of tire wear and are usually not "felt" like caster is. So thinking that the alignment is good because the car goes straight when releasing the steering wheel is not true at all. But the tire people love to sell you more tires. If stability was good before the swap and you are using the same rims as before, check your tire pressures. The larger tires will need less pressure because of their increased load capacity. High air pressure can induce wandering at speed. To be sure though, I would have the complete alignment checked including camber, caster, toe, And thrust angle. All modern equipment measure those angles and a good alignment shop can adjust all angles. Don't go somewhere that only knows how to set the toe. On modern cars that is the only thing adjustable most of the time.

View attachment 774112

Along with Leo's comment on staying away from places the only set toe, aka "set the toe and let it go", have them hang targets on all four wheels. What you are after is the "thrust angle" which is the alignment between front to back. You don't want any difference side to side. Ever see any vehicles that look like they are going sideways down the road? The thrust angle is off. The diff may be angled to one side from prior collision problems or other issues. For minor adjustments, Hotchkiss makes shims that fit between the front spring hanger and unibody. Always get a four wheel alignment done no matter what you drive. And don't expect them to do all this work and adjustments for a $50 alignment. Expect to pay shop rate for the time it takes.