Do you prefer 50 year old OEM or new repro switches?

[HawkRod]

I agree. There are several OEM components on both my cars that either I've rebuilt or had sent out.
In the case of my ignition switch, I had it out last week, tested it for continuity and it was good, but registered what I considered high resistance. Pulled out the lock cylinder and cleaned the bottom of the switch barrel and the lock cylinder contact point, lubed it up with dielectric grease and reinstalled. The Coronet fired right up. Same thing this morning until I got gas, then I had to jump the starter relay. Ran some errands and the engine fired up each time; so there's some random issue going on. Can ignition switches be rebuilt or refurbished?

I have never rebuilt an ignition switch, so I can't speak specifically for that. I did, however, rebuild my OEM dimmer switch when I restored my 1970 Road Runner, and it is still going strong. My dimmer switch really just needed to have the contacts cleaned well. It wasn't made to come apart, but I gently pried up on the metal frame and got it apart.
If it were me, I'd try to fix the original switch - seems you have little to lose!

 

[Ceedawg]

Ill use the oem stuff anytime over the parts of today, there’s always something sub-par with new or made up pieces. Wiring is a biggy with me, connectors are always lacking in fir

 

[sam dupont]

One has to consider the materials. Rubber gets hard and plastic gets brittle.

 

[DrewTX]

Aftermarket is junk. I'm on my 2nd ignition switch on my 1971 in 4 years, and it's acting up again! It's not a fun replacement job being in the steering column. I won't keep replacing it with more junk. I plan to bypass it and use a MIL-SPEC momentary toggle switch...good enough for the US Military, good enough for me! The junk switch will just be to lock my steering column. I hope it's up for the job. I work in the wire harness industry and thought about making a simple lay-over (I'll call it) harness for for just the ignition system. The mopar wiring has many issues, but can be bypassed easily. I'm not up for the $800 Painless wire harness when it's really just ignition and charging issues. Thoughts?

 

[DrewTX]

My assumption is that if it can come apart, it can be rebuilt or refurbished. The contacts get worn and could be built back up with solder and a file, anything that slides could be regreased, etc.
I'd like to learn how to do this. I also want to learn how to repair plastic grilles since some are not being reproduced.

I guess one day well be 3D printing some of these plastic parts? I'd think it would work well for plastic grills. I saw this 3D printed Camaro grill.

 

[Ceedawg]

Aftermarket is junk. I'm on my 2nd ignition switch on my 1971 in 4 years, and it's acting up again! It's not a fun replacement job being in the steering column. I won't keep replacing it with more junk. I plan to bypass it and use a MIL-SPEC momentary toggle switch...good enough for the US Military, good enough for me! The junk switch will just be to lock my steering column. I hope it's up for the job. I work in the wire harness industry and thought about making a simple lay-over (I'll call it) harness for for just the ignition system. The mopar wiring has many issues, but can be bypassed easily. I'm not up for the $800 Painless wire harness when it's really just ignition and charging issues. Thoughts?

View attachment 1328862

I agree on that part, my buddy bought one for his 73 Cuda and I could tell it wasn’t to good, with your knowledge I’d make up a new harness. The wire ends to me is the hard part.

 

[Michael_]

New electrical is untrustworthy to say the least and the same with old rubber also. My rule of thumn is if it was made 90's and back it is way better than today.

So you're basically saying nos switches and electronics in general can be assumed to still work fine?

 

[CoronetDarter]

I have never rebuilt an ignition switch, so I can't speak specifically for that. I did, however, rebuild my OEM dimmer switch when I restored my 1970 Road Runner, and it is still going strong. My dimmer switch really just needed to have the contacts cleaned well. It wasn't made to come apart, but I gently pried up on the metal frame and got it apart.
If it were me, I'd try to fix the original switch - seems you have little to lose!

I rebuilt the dimmer switch on the Coronet. Same thing as you, mainly just needed a good cleaning. I remember having to replace the OEM rivet with a small nut & bolt.
You're right, might as well take it apart and see what's going on inside. Fortunately the 69 ignition switch can be removed in about 5 minutes.

 

[CoronetDarter]

Thank you to everyone who replied. If I need to replace the switch I'm going with the NOS part. Before that I'll first take the switch out again and dive further into taking it apart to see what's going on.
Great idea on building up the contacts with solder; that's a new one for me.

 

[DrewTX]

I have typically found both both used and NOS are WAY better than aftermarket. NOS is usually crazy expensive and only on Ebay. We often have to use aftermarket to get it on the road. Oh the WORST are alternators and starters. Both rebuilt and new are pretty much junk. I went through 4 alternators to finally get a decent one. Brand new off the shelf with horrible bearing sounds, poor charging, super short life span. Doesn't matter where you buy them. I bought a Dodge Dakota starter and took it to a local shop for rebuild and it's been excellent. Twice the price and took 2 weeks. I'll probably do the same when my next alternator goes out....frustrating.

 

[DrewTX]

I agree on that part, my buddy bought one for his 73 Cuda and I could tell it wasn’t to good, with your knowledge I’d make up a new harness. The wire ends to me is the hard part.

Wire ends are all about quality terminals and crimp tools. They have pretty good quality ones for around $30. I have some high end ones, but the ISWISS brand work well.

 

[DrewTX]

I have never rebuilt an ignition switch, so I can't speak specifically for that. I did, however, rebuild my OEM dimmer switch when I restored my 1970 Road Runner, and it is still going strong. My dimmer switch really just needed to have the contacts cleaned well. It wasn't made to come apart, but I gently pried up on the metal frame and got it apart.
If it were me, I'd try to fix the original switch - seems you have little to lose!

View attachment 1328811

Impressive, nicely done!

 

[CoronetDarter]

I have typically found both both used and NOS are WAY better than aftermarket. NOS is usually crazy expensive and only on Ebay. We often have to use aftermarket to get it on the road. Oh the WORST are alternators and starters. Both rebuilt and new are pretty much junk. I went through 4 alternators to finally get a decent one. Brand new off the shelf with horrible bearing sounds, poor charging, super short life span. Doesn't matter where you buy them. I bought a Dodge Dakota starter and took it to a local shop for rebuild and it's been excellent. Twice the price and took 2 weeks. I'll probably do the same when my next alternator goes out....frustrating.

The NOS switch is on Ebay is about $100 more than a repro.
I've heard the same thing about the quality of rebuilt alternators so when the time came I rebuilt the alternator on the Dart. It's actually pretty easy to do and I wound up only replacing the brushes - cost about $15 on Rock Auto.
Alternatively, here's a Mopar alternator vendor:
Chrysler Dodge Alternator Repair, High Output Kits

 

[DrewTX]

We all should make efforts to seek out and buy OEM parts at swap meets when we can, even worn out looking stuff. There are guys that do rebuild original switches using hand made or quality new parts. Stuff like wiper switches, units for power windows, convertible tops, lights, etc. The new stuff is unpredictable. People blame China for crappy quality but I think that as evil as that country can be, they are capable of building quality stuff if the price is right. Companies that contract with China are trying to squeeze every last penny so the Chinese build them to meet that cheap price point.

Very true statements. I worked in auto parts for around 7 years in the late 80's-90's. I've had plenty of USA made components that were junk, usually for the same reason as you detailed: companies trying to squeeze out every penny. China can make a quality products (the Iphone) it's just that the retailers will always go with the lowest price. We would gladly pay $100 for that ignition switch if it was quality, right? Here's something crazy....an alternator or starter is pretty much the same price it was in the late 80's, early 90's. Quality is way worse.

 

[DrewTX]

I should say....the good thing is we have options today. If you do a little research, you can buy much better quality connectors, terminals, switches, etc. I highly recommend Del City and Digi-Key Electronics online. Once you buy some decent crimpers and terminals....it starts to get fun. Oh, and you can often use the original connector housing for the OEM look. The terminal on the far right is our OEM contact, and the others are options that fit the same housings.

 

[DrewTX]

On this subject, if you are using relays try to buy name brand quality ones (TE/Tyco, Bosch). A relay is an electrically operated remote switch for high power (AMP) components. Best example are headlights. You can connect your headlights close to the battery, and turn them on/off with a low voltage switch on the dash and they are SUPER BRIGHT! In the past they ran all that voltage into the cab then back to the headlights creating a ton of resistance...hence the dim headlights. The china relays have left me stranded..always keep an extra in the glove box. They even make MIL-SPEC relays that are expensive but will probably outlive you or me as they go in tanks and fighter jets.

 

[Quintin]

Bought 2 or 3 TS switches from Classic Industries. None lasted a year. Someone here suggested [email protected]. Put that one in in 2016 and it is still working fine.

 

[DrewTX]

Here's some perspective...If Amazon sells a $2 toggle switch, it likely cost them $1 landed (FOB USA) at a normal 100% profit margin for Amazon. It is likely there is a distributor in there buying from the China manufacturer selling to Amazon so another 20-30% margin. So if the manufacturer and the distributor need to make money AND cover the international freight and customs....China needs to make it for around $0.30-0.50. How good can a switch that cost $0.30 be? What's really crazy is China buying is even buying-processing our scrap metal to make this....and is still making money. It does give some perspective. A TE(TYCO) USA made commercial grade switch is $25.

 

[stillrunners]

OEM......NOS stuff if you can find it.....

 

[devinism]

NOS Mopar parts first if I can find them when I need them
New Aftermkt is 2nd.

the modern chinese junk is only as a last resort and is only to get the car operational again, while I look for the above

I have 3 cars from 66/67 model years so it makes it easier to find parts common between them .
especially electrical pieces
I have a hot sheet of OEM part numbers I do a semi regular search for to see if they become avail.

Right now, I need a wiper switch for a 66 and so far no luck, so Im considering trying to find a known good used one maybe

I have rebuilt MoPar 66-67 wiper switches. Is yours Ply or Dodge? 2sp or variable?