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Does anyone know the straight poop on ceramic coatings

SteveSS

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It seems every car shine product throws the word ceramic around. I know they are supposed to be silica-based, Si O2, but the percentages differ. I don't see the %'s advertised and I think just shopping by price is a sucker's way to buy products. Has anyone researched this enough to make some educated recommendations?
 
My best guess, just a new way to part a fool with his money.
 
Prep/ correction first. Then skilled application. Looks great. Lasts long. Easy to maintain.
 
Guys I work with use the Avalon kit.

Prep takes about 6 hours.

Wash in simple green.

Dry

Clay bar.

Wash again in simple green.

Dry

Rubbing compound if needed.

Wipe down with 50 50 solution of rubbing alcohol and distilled water.

Apply two coats ceramic coating.

Keep indoor away from dust rain sun for 24 hours
 
I ordered 3 bottles of Avalon.

Trying my mustang first.
 
I was skeptical until I drove a car that was ceramic coated thru the worst weather California had seen in 70 years. Snow, sleet, mud, silt and it was the cleanest car in the hotel parking lot. When I got home the driwash towel just glides across the paint and what dirt was there was easily removed.

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Depends on the vehicle in my opinion.
I wouldn't put it on "old" paint. For sure not unless it has a clear coat, and even then I would hesitate depending on age of paint.
My 2013 Charger I have never waxed or anything in ten years. I run it through auto washes. It is black, all of it. I used a waterless wash product last fall(will soon this spring again) and it looked like new. Water beads and rolls off. I have never applied a product to it, ever.
Course, it also spends life at home in the climate controlled garage. it does sit outside at work though, in WI rain, shine, snow, sleet, salt.
This car, if I was to pick a product to put on, would probably get the ceramic. Prep does matter with that stuff, but I think factory paint type matters more.
90's era clear coat paint jobs I would stick with wax.
Non-clear paint gets ONLY carnauba. But those types of vehicles are not usually commuters, or not the type to worry about(trucks)
 
Started at 8am this morning and finished at 2pm. Ten minute break for lunch.
My wrists are sore.
Paint is brighter almost blinding in the garage.

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So what all did you do Bill? I see some of the products you used but maybe not all.
 
So what all did you do Bill? I see some of the products you used but maybe not all.
Well.....since you asked I'll list step by step below.

1) Washed the car in a solution of 1 cup Simple Green in 2 gallons of water.
2) Dried the car really well. Open and shut doors several times to flush out water in crevices.
3) Clay Bar the painted surfaces. Interestingly I only got "contaminants" off the front bumper and rear trunk area. A testament to my years of Dri Wash use!
4) Hand polish all painted surfaces. I recommend a buffer here and if I ever do this again I will borrow my friends random buffer!
5) Used Griots Garage glass polish on the windows.
6) Wiped the car down TWICE with a solution of 20% Rubbing alcohol and 80% RO water.
7) Applied TWO coats of Avalon King Ceramic coatings doing a cross hatch in a 2x2 area at a time. Did Glass, trim, and windows. Did NOT do the wheels or door jambs.

The paint is 'brighter'. When I was doing the sides you could tell the improvement. The door that I had just finished was brighter than the quarter panel that had not been applied.

This car looks better than the day I drove it off the lot (December 30, 2011).
 
Spent over 7 hours on my trusty Ranger. I borrowed a random buffer and took about 70% of the feather scratches out, and really increased the shine. I'm actually getting compliments on this old rig.

Avalon had a Memorial Day sale and I ordered three more kits. Going to do a car for a coworker next weekend.

Lots of effort, but the results are worth it.

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Spent over 7 hours on my trusty Ranger. I borrowed a random buffer and took about 70% of the feather scratches out, and really increased the shine. I'm actually getting compliments on this old rig.

Avalon had a Memorial Day sale and I ordered three more kits. Going to do a car for a coworker next weekend.

Lots of effort, but the results are worth it.

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Looks like the hood is a different shade.
 
I only do "permanent" ceramic on brand-new cars, and go in for the yearly maintenance on the coating. It's expensive but the results are amazing (and still much cheaper than stuff like XPel, which really is only cost-effective for supercars). For classics I apply Hydrosilex a few times a year, which is a very good spray-on temporary ceramic. No wax or polish but I do clay bar every two years.
 
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