I recall reading about some specific adjustment that has to be done to get the caliper piston to extend. Recently I had the 3rd member out to fix a leak. Doing so requires removal of the caliper and pads. I thought that I would try adjusting the pistons out slightly for quicker brake response. I recall someone mentioning that the caliper pistons need to be rotated, that they don't just push straight out like you'd expect. I rotated my right side CCW and it extended too much. I had to sand the brake pads to get the caliper to fit over the pads. What did I do wrong?
Kern Dog, can’t help on that adjustment but I am curious how your e brake assembly works and your adjustments there. I have the Right Stuff rears which are similar and have the mechanical caliper cam for the e brake instead of an internal mini drum like modern cars. If I adjust my cables so that the e brake works, my right rear pad eventually heats up and starts dragging(making a god awful groan) because by setting the piston stop, like you just did, it cannot retract as it normally would. Because of this I have it adjusted just where the pads won’t groan and it barely gives me an e brake. I am looking real hard at Dr Diffs next step up which has the mini drum.
The Dr Diff kit uses his own mounting bracket but then uses a Ford Caliper from some model of Mustang. There are plenty in junkyards so I should be able to find one to mess with,' FBBO member 1 Wild R/T mentioned that the caliper adjustment is done by pressing the parking brake 25-30 times, then pressing the brake pedal. I have yet to try that.
Looks like you just turn it back in clockwise to reset it to factory. Tool used below. https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTe...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I tried that but didn't "push" the piston in while turning it. I used one of those tools meant for removing the collar on 4" angle grinders.
