Engine builder problems or is it?

[Rustymopar]

has anyone ever used or seen an engine builder use some kind of substance that looks likes clumps of dirt
shoved in the water jackets or ports of an engine block or around the water pump?
It was light tan, looked like a dry clump sandy material. It's supposed to fill and very small pin holes
in heads or blocks as a precautionary measure?

Once I see a few comments, I will explain a problem I have which might really stump you guys.

R

 

[Seventy]

I heard of hard block but that does not sound like what you are talking about, what is it actually called?

I remember someone talking about an additive added to used boat engines to smooth the internal walls of the water jacket and trat against further corrosion.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Sounds like stop leak. Not a precautionary measure, but a cheap tempory fix for a more serious problem. Usually more trouble than its worth as it gets into tight spots in the radiator and heater core and jams them up.

 

[IQ52]

Stop leak. For 30 year old engines that are losing water out on the highway 100's of mile from home. If it's being used in a new engine there are bigger problems.

 

[PoppaSmurf]

almost sounds like the "original " version of KW block sealer.. that or a product called Hard Blok water jacket filler used in Racing blocks wear coolant is NOT needed..

 

[69Bee]

Rebuilt engines usually get some sort of sealing as a precautionary measure, not that they need it because of a problem. Now, there are sealing tabs that dissolve, I use a liquid from KW that comes in a bright green bottle, and is the cats meow... That stuff is awesome at sealing the smallest leaks. When motors are cleaned after years of use, the corrosion that used to seal them has been removed, and sometimes can cause a "leaker". So the business doesn't have to worry about small issues like that, a sealer is used to help out.

I had to repair 3 exhaust manifold studs that broke on my 360 with heli-coils, and no matter how I sealed them, they would NOT stop leaking. I used the KW sealer, and literally watch the leak stop inside of 3 minutes, and hasn't leaked since. There are good sealers, and some I wouldn't use, and it sounds like the one you are talking about might be intended for a temporary repair as opposed to a precautionary measure. I don't like the ones that have the possibility of clogging the radiator.

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=401210

http://paceperformance.com/i-648573...m-engines-other-gm-iron-aluminum-engines.html

 

[Rustymopar]

Now for the problem - my right side exhaust manifold is getting so hot, it melted the little white straps to my windshield wiper bottle hose. It also cooked off a 3"x2" area of paint down low on my inner. Im sick over it.
Any ideas?

 

[furyus]

Might want to pick up a thermal gun from HF. See what temps you have on different areas of the engine and radiator. That does sound really hot. Probably cooking the engine too.

 

[440beep]

Is the timing off? Mixture too lean? Interesting that it's only one side though...........

 

[747mopar]

Sounds like stop leak. Not a precautionary measure, but a cheap tempory fix for a more serious problem. Usually more trouble than its worth as it gets into tight spots in the radiator and heater core and jams them up.

Not entirely true, GM used to install it from the factory (or at least that's what the label used to read). I personally throw it in on a new motor just to help seal up the freeze plugs, etc but then drain it all after it's warmed up and refill. I can see it being a problem with someone who continues to add it and doesn't ever drain it but not just a bottle.

- - - Updated - - -

Is the timing off? Mixture too lean? Interesting that it's only one side though...........

X2, sounds like a severely lean cylinder or 2? Intake gasket?

 

[miller]

One exhaust getting hot could be a bunch of different things, all the way to pushrods on that side wrong length.

 

[Rustymopar]

Passenger Side Driver side
490 465
550 486
530 423
485 311
This is what we had after 5 minutes of idling.
the 311 temp could have been not aiming the thermal gun consistently.
I'm leaning towards the carb being an 800 CFM edelbrock 4 barrel
Cam is a Comp Cam 484/292
Roller rockers and mated push rods all from Mancini.
Stock Mopar dual plane intake.
Driving temp on the dash gauge is about 180.

 

[440beep]

Just so there's no misunderstanding, the driver side 311 temp, that's the #7 cylinder correct? And the 465 is the #1 cylinder.

Passenger Side Driver side
490 465
550 486
530 423
485 311
This is what we had after 5 minutes of idling.
the 311 temp could have been not aiming the thermal gun consistently.
I'm leaning towards the carb being an 800 CFM edelbrock 4 barrel
Cam is a Comp Cam 484/292
Roller rockers and mated push rods all from Mancini.
Stock Mopar dual plane intake.
Driving temp on the dash gauge is about 180.

 

[Cranky]

Does it still have a working heat riser cross over on it? If so, is it working properly? If it's stuck closed, it can raise the driver side temps. As for the chunks in the cooling system....are they rock hard or will they crumble fairly easily? Hard block sets up like concrete.

 

[440beep]

Do you mean passenger side? The cross over opening device is on the passenger side exhaust manifold, so to your point, might explain the high passenger side temps with the exhaust gases building there.

Does it still have a working heat riser cross over on it? If so, is it working properly? If it's stuck closed, it can raise the driver side temps. As for the chunks in the cooling system....are they rock hard or will they crumble fairly easily? Hard block sets up like concrete.

 

[Cranky]

My bad....

 

[Rustymopar]

Just so there's no misunderstanding, the driver side 311 temp, that's the #7 cylinder correct? And the 465 is the #1 cylinder.

The other way around Front of the motor is at the bottom of the numbers. 311 is #1

- - - Updated - - -

Does it still have a working heat riser cross over on it? If so, is it working properly? If it's stuck closed, it can raise the driver side temps. As for the chunks in the cooling system....are they rock hard or will they crumble fairly easily? Hard block sets up like concrete.

Its been removed sometime ago.

 

[miller]

If it was mine, I'd run a good compression test on all eight. They should be running all fairly close, especially if the motor is fresh. I pull the coil wire, and let each hole hit the tester 3 times, to get an accurate read.

If you've got a valve not closing, or too much overlap, it's blowing back into the exhaust....that would overheat the exhaust manifold.

Don't care what kinda trick parts, if they aren't doing what their supposed to do.

 

[Seventy]

I bought a 69 camaro (z28 clone), it was at an estate auction but had a lot of paper work with it, showing a brand new 383 stroker engine, installed but never wired or hooked up, there was no starter in the car. So I get it to the shop and get it all run ready, the #8 cylinder was changing the color of the header, we checked the temp and it was double the other 7. After some trouble shooting my father said "lets just pull that head" (compression test was ok but leak down was fast).. I gave up and walked away, he pulled the head that night and there was a destroyed seat and valve, sent the head out and the car never had an issue again, but the motor sounded good ran good, and had good power, I would have never thought that valve was from that motor..

SO Miller may be onto something, I would do a compression/ leak down test and see where you are...