Engine install from underneath

moparmarks

I'm just a guy with a screwdriver.
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
7:40 PM
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Messages
7,745
Reaction score
3,405
Location
Western Colorado
I just went to the Chinese store and got a couple of those $12.00 dollies.
 

70 GTX-R

Member
Local time
8:40 PM
Joined
Aug 13, 2021
Messages
15
Reaction score
69
Location
Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
My brother and I installed my engine from under. Found it went very smooth and was able to assemble most engine stuff quickly. this was installed the night before we took it to world of wheels. goal was to drive it in. Couldn’t have a Hemi car with an empty engine compartment.
Made the jig very low profile to reduce how much lift required to slide engine under. we left hood on so we wouldn’t disturb the dirt.
Since then, we bought a building across street and installed one of the 2 post hoists. So roof high no longer an issue.

6A68333A-2865-4152-A104-63829D7FF6B1.jpeg


D8C03116-6530-43C9-B796-280FB5862F1D.jpeg


432CE72D-63E3-46E2-92F0-0F764EF656DC.jpeg


5B542F65-2DD1-47DB-8403-3BD2F4D8D650.jpeg


9A4393C8-7630-4D8C-B6B3-D2F19938F5C0.jpeg
 

3white74

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
9:40 PM
Joined
Oct 17, 2010
Messages
3,034
Reaction score
477
Location
albany,ny
I bought mine from us car tool ....very happy with quality and function ....time is money with me ....my thoughts were why reinvent the wheel
 

T2R9

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
9:40 PM
Joined
Jul 18, 2008
Messages
2,305
Reaction score
3,943
Location
South Carolina
I just went with modified moving dollies, worked fine and I will use them again on the next one.

IMG_1294.jpg
IMG_1293.jpg
IMG_1296.jpg
 

JoePole

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:40 PM
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
383
Reaction score
421
Location
Hyde Park,NY. NOT NYC!
KD.....Sorry about your cam issue. I just did my first engine/trans swap out of the bottom. Mine was a small block but I made a dolly out of one of those HD type 6 wheel rolling carts someone was selling on CL. Hard to see but I also added more bracing from the upright to the base. The threaded rod on the unistrut is adjustable for BB or SB K-members. I also took the time to gusset,
weld and paint the K while it was out.
I did run into a pretty big snafu getting my passenger torsion bar out. I doubt it's common but I had to make a removal tool
and drive it out even with no load on it and with the rear hex past the crossmember. It wound up pulling my control arm
shaft out of the arm itself. It was not that old. Only thing I could think of is hydro-locked from the grease.
Anyway....expect the unexpected. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

1654099133548.png


1654098492731.png


1654098460362.png
 

Toxic Orange 493

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
9:40 PM
Joined
Apr 29, 2010
Messages
217
Reaction score
450
Location
PA
Here is a picture of the one that I made to hold the engine while I checked the bellhousing runout. Then I figured I would be able to use it for installing the engine.

I tried to keep it as low as possible since I don’t have a lift and have to use an engine hoist to lift the front of the car.
9D02CEF9-90E0-471E-A1FD-40B4E5EF2205.jpeg

BC44DB13-61CA-403C-8661-893115C36011.jpeg
 

autoxcuda

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:40 PM
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
346
Reaction score
484
Location
Simi Valley, CA
If you don't have a lift, you need to get it low and with some support in the rear.

This one was rectangular at one time. But with headers installed it needed to be tapered.

Plywood top with carpet to protect. Use strong wire to pull the spindles up by hooking to K-member hole. Otherwise disks will drag on ground.

Bolt (or leave) A-arms to body. Then you just have to line up UBJ to upper spindle hole.

IMG_1284.JPG
 
Last edited:

max340

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:40 PM
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Messages
228
Reaction score
106
Location
San Diego
It looks like I will be RErebuilding my 440/493. The flat tappet MP 528 solid cam lost at least 3 lobes and I just can't risk further damage by putting in another cam without first pulling the engine and cleaning it all out. This situation would be a real pisser but it gives me the opportunity to make a few changes for power and reliability.
Last year, I swapped in a Tremec 5 speed. I have never done an engine R & R with a manual trans. I am thinking that I'll pull them together and reinstall them together.
Because of this, I am going to do a "body drop" installation and maybe even a removal.
I plan to make some sort of cart or stand with casters. I will fab and weld something together so that I can wheel it under the car, lower the car with a car lift and bolt it all up. I might make the transmission section "bolt together" to make this thing easier to stow or transport.
I would really appreciate some input and pictures if possible. I don't know how tall to make this thing. I'd probably need to make it adjustable so I can use it with other arrangements, I.E. B body B/RB with A/T, A body LA with 904 or 727.
Show me what you did!
Thanks!
864AEFCE-9A5A-4621-99E5-F2E6AB8C11CE.jpeg
 

Moparfever65

Member
Local time
6:40 PM
Joined
Oct 2, 2021
Messages
11
Reaction score
5
Location
Sacramento
I ran good oil. I have been using Redline 10W30 with added Zinc for over a year. I always added Comp Cams break in supplement at oil changes. Maybe the valve springs were too stiff? I kept the same ones I had with my last cam, a Lunati solid with more lift.
They say you should break the cam in with light springs or that will happen. I built my current motor before hearing that, so I'm getting ready to pull the valve covers to remove the inner springs for break-in. There's a Youtube from Uncle Tony on cam break-in.
 

Kern Dog

Life is full of turns. Build your car to handle.
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
6:40 PM
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
26,394
Reaction score
77,153
Location
Granite Bay CA
There is a lot of information put out that does not apply to every situation.
Of the 4 cams that I have lost in my time, none went bad during break in. Every one was well after the car was up and running for awhile. I've never used dual springs and never had sky high pressures.
 

Stanton

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:40 PM
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Messages
4,094
Reaction score
4,390
Location
Ontario, Canada
Of all the one's I've seen here or elsewhere I like this one most. Why? Because its simple and it provides access to K-member bolt holes. The only things I would change ... make the base high enough for the legs of the engine hoist to go under and a small scissor jack at the rear - 'cause you know things ain't gonna line up !!

1654044840827.jpeg
 

John E Johnson

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:40 PM
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Messages
325
Reaction score
329
Location
Florida
It looks like I will be RErebuilding my 440/493. The flat tappet MP 528 solid cam lost at least 3 lobes and I just can't risk further damage by putting in another cam without first pulling the engine and cleaning it all out. This situation would be a real pisser but it gives me the opportunity to make a few changes for power and reliability.
Last year, I swapped in a Tremec 5 speed. I have never done an engine R & R with a manual trans. I am thinking that I'll pull them together and reinstall them together.
Because of this, I am going to do a "body drop" installation and maybe even a removal.
I plan to make some sort of cart or stand with casters. I will fab and weld something together so that I can wheel it under the car, lower the car with a car lift and bolt it all up. I might make the transmission section "bolt together" to make this thing easier to stow or transport.
I would really appreciate some input and pictures if possible. I don't know how tall to make this thing. I'd probably need to make it adjustable so I can use it with other arrangements, I.E. B body B/RB with A/T, A body LA with 904 or 727.
Show me what you did!
Thanks!
I bought the cradle from u.s. cartool. I took the easy way out. I'm so ashamed

Resized_20200724_110754.jpg


Resized_20200724_105610.jpg
 

mrhemi

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:40 PM
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
324
Reaction score
375
Location
Ontario
Did your setup fit between the tread plates of your 4 post lift?
Here is my cart. Bought some 400lb rated swivel casters, the rest was just scrap steel I had. The two front vertical posts fit into the openings on the k, back portion matches up with the trans pan. I got some 5/8x12" bolts to use as guides up front when mating up, cut the heads off. Works great. I can leave the headers on too.

View attachment 1292396

View attachment 1292397

View attachment 1292400

View attachment 1292403

View attachment 1292405

View attachment 1292406
 

ckessel

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:40 PM
Joined
Apr 23, 2015
Messages
2,656
Reaction score
2,460
Location
Los Osos Ca.
It fit no problem. The front vertical tubes go up into the oval holes in the k-frame so its narrower than the k. I threaded the 1' bolts into the k holes, heads cut off of course, to help guide the alignment when bringing it down.

617BEF5A-4305-4944-8719-B193E6863CC0_1_201_a.jpeg


ABE2B745-8CD1-4E62-A54E-C2520EDF84F3.jpeg


E9AF9E6F-CF1C-4CD5-A479-1518F0B2A86F.jpeg
 
Top