Engine stalls after only when car is warm

[Knightmtr]

67 Charger with 383, automatic. I'm stumped with this one. The car seems to idle ok and drive when first started up, but after a few miles it wants to stall when you stop. It also will cut out while idling after warmup. One thing I noticed is cruising about 40-50, it feels like it's skipping every now and then and backfires when you hit wot. Replaced coil, wires, plugs, checked vacuum, spark, timing, and fuel pressure. Adjustments can make it worse but never better. It also has an Edelbrock AVS 2 carb. Everything else is stock. Distributor is new and the motor was supposedly gone through.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

What is the initial timing set at and what is the WOT timing set at?

 

[snakeoil24]

Pump accelerator see if it runs dry when u look in carburetor

 

[Knightmtr]

What is the initial timing set at and what is the WOT timing set at?

17 and 32 assuming the mark is correct

 

[steve340]

It sounds like it may be a little lean at low speed or a small vacuum leak possibly.
If it has a choke you may be adjusting the choke fast idle as opposed to the curb idle.

 

[AR67GTX]

Could also be symptoms of a failing coil - fires OK cold and starts dropping voltage as it heats up. Probably not a bad condenser (assuming you have points). They will act up cold or hot.

 

[Geoff 2]

Make sure the choke is fully 'off' when the engine is hot. The float level should be checked [ 7/16" ] because they can be knocked about in shipment.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Points or electronic? Can be a bad condenser or a pickup/ecu classic issues

 

[Outlawd]

My 71 Charger had those symptoms, my fuel line was picking up too much heat off the headers and was vapor locking. I wrapped the line with a heat sock and fixed it.

 

[Knightmtr]

This is what I'm working with. Customer purchased car from CA, sent it to a shop to have a full inspection and all issues fixed. Got the car back barely driveable after spending over $10k. He sent it to us after talking with one of our clients. We build mostly LS based restomods. So far, we've replaced almost of steering and suspension components, fixed brakes, fixed exhaust, fixed gauges, fixed turn signals. Wiring is a disaster but the customer is tapped out. Most everything is good if we can just get it running right. Carbs are not our speciality. We typically throw them in the trash and replace with fuel injection. Unfortunately, this is not an option. We certainly appreciate the help. We're not charging any more labor at this point, so hoping to get it running right soon.

 

[Knightmtr]

Started it up this morning. Idled perfectly fine for about 20 min. Then stumbled a couple of times and died. Fired right back up, idled smooth for about 10 seconds then died. Fired it up about 5 more times, did the exact same thing everytime. Ran for about ten seconds smooth, stumbled then died

 

[RemCharger]

Better pic of all the vacuum hoses. There's stuff going everywhere by the looks of it

 

[Knightmtr]

Better pic of all the vacuum hoses. There's stuff going everywhere by the looks of it

The distributor is connected to the front of the carb and the brake booster is connected to the manifold. That's all the vacuum lines that are connected to the engine

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Vac is good. Man seriously sounds like a ecu or a pickup. That orange box is a overseas Mopar authorized they have a bunch of failures.

 

[Knightmtr]

Started checking wires, voltage and grounds. There is only a wire going to the block from the battery. No chassis or body. There is 4 volts going to the coil from the ballast resistor. They have also grabbed the choke power at the coil so it's only getting 4 volts

 

[RemCharger]

Cut the choke wire. Use it to wire the choke open lol

 

[SlinktRR]

Sounds like it's loading up (too rich) when hot, choke not opening or jetting.

 

[Knightmtr]

Sounds like it's loading up (too rich) when hot, choke not opening or jetting.

I have yet to see the choke flap closed, hot or cold

 

[Knightmtr]

Vac is good. Man seriously sounds like a ecu or a pickup. That orange box is a overseas Mopar authorized they have a bunch of failures.

Finally, I got something to change. When the car is warmed up and wants to die, I touched 12 volts from the battery to the coil + and it immediately idled back up. I removed the wire and after about 10 seconds it tried to die again. I touched 12 volts and it idled back up. Ignition box confirmed?

 

[SlinktRR]

You need around 9v going to the coil, 4 is too low. Could be ballast resistor. Disable the choke and check voltages to and from the ECU.