Engine temp question

Engine, Trans & Driveline

  1. CloedFL

    CloedFL Member

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    I am slightly struggling with answering the question of the right thermostar to use with my engine

    Have a 70 charger with the original 383 (max. oversize bore) & Auto and running the following set up:
    -Mild cam
    -650 Edlebrock Thunder AVS 2
    -26 inch alu rad with 3 cores
    - High flow aluminum pump

    Have been running 2 different thermostats 160/180 now in roughly 70 F and the engine temp in steady state is as following:

    160 F thermostat - -> 180 F
    180 F thermostat -- > 210 F

    The 180F engine temp seems a little bit too low and the 210 too high.. Any recommendations if the 180F is good to go or if i should look for more 180F thermostats to see if one gets better?

    Assume on warmer days it will be slightly higher, but temp here barely reach 90-95 F
     
  2. Tony Tee

    Tony Tee Well-Known Member

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    Is your temperature gauge correct?
    My experience is it should run close to the thermostat rated temperature.
     
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    • slepr1

      slepr1 Well-Known Member

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      180 F thermostat is correct. If 210 F is too hot for your liking then find out why and correct it. I like being around 180-200 F.
       
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      • moes

        moes Well-Known Member

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        like Tony Tee said it should run close to the thermostat rated temperature, just above it. If you are driving hard the temp gauge should increase a few degrees higher then normal. Of course this is with a cooling system that works correctly!!!
         
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        • dadsbee

          dadsbee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          383HP, stock 2 core OE x 22" rad, stock 7 blade fixed fan (no shroud), stock pump (and we're talking a 52 year old one!).. running it hard yesterday on a 90F/99F humandex day highway and town with a 190 thermostat and my gauge is verified correct with sender in boiling water. As for that high flow pump, keep in mind that heat dissipation is a time game and you could be putting fluid through the radiator too quickly. Also you didn't say what you're running for a fan blade. Please don't say a speed shop flex fan.
          beecruisejune62021 004.JPG
           
          Last edited: Jun 7, 2021
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          • Jc cooper

            Jc cooper Second gear fun! FBBO Gold Member

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            Hey there, Dadsbee is usually very accurate in his assessments of the situation when involving these old cars of ours , but to add to his view and certainly not contradicting him , in my situation I found a few small things that helped my temps a lot ! Fan shroud , spring in lower hose and a Milodon 180* thermostat full opening , also the factory sheet metal piece behind frt bumper at the bottom of the core support to direct the air through the radiator better! Plus your numbers don’t look that bad actually, especially for an engine with a large overbore! Just my view though! We’ll see if Dadsbee adds or take anything away here ! Always good to have more positive input when considering an issue!
             
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            • CloedFL

              CloedFL Member

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              IMG_20210607_175540.jpg IMG_20210516_221058.jpg IMG_20210607_175527.jpg IMG_20210516_221225.jpg
              I also thought about the high flow pump causing too high temps

              i verified the sender at two spots
              Water 72 deg C / 161 F, my gauge was slightly below 170
              Water deg 57 / 134 F, my gauge was a bit above 120

              Running a Hayden HD fan clutch and the fan that came with the car - no cluevwhat it is (see pic) also have a derale 6 blade fan here but the noice level was just too much

              Shroud (but with a small gap) is also installed

              IMG_20210607_175527.jpg
               
            • Don Frelier

              Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              What is your timing set at?
               
            • CloedFL

              CloedFL Member

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              if i remember it right, its at 14 deg initial and 34 or 38 max
               
            • Don Frelier

              Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              A little more initial might be good but won't affect your temp going down the road of course.
              Using/hooked up vacuum advance?
               
            • CloedFL

              CloedFL Member

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              yes, vac is hooked up.

              timed the engine with a vacuum gauge and timing should be okish
               
            • Ranger16

              Ranger16 Well-Known Member

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              For what it's worth, I was running just about the same as dadsbee ("383HP, stock 2 core OE x 22" rad, stock 7 blade fixed fan (no shroud), stock pump") when I got my car. It would run 200° - 210°. I pulled the 190° stat and replaced it with a 180° and added a shroud. Now I run a consistent 180° - 190°.

              Are you running a good quality thermostat like Stant? Please don't say AutoZone. Might be worth trying a different stat.
               
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              • Jc cooper

                Jc cooper Second gear fun! FBBO Gold Member

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                I had good service with Milodon 180* with high flow pump ,just saying!
                 
              • CloedFL

                CloedFL Member

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                Yes, both of them -

                Wonder if i rather try i standard flow pump or various thermostats
                 
              • WileERobby

                WileERobby Well-Known Member

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                With a cooling system functioning well, a 180 is a good choice. Too cool, too hot = not good.
                 
              • F4R/T

                F4R/T Well-Known Member

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                I used to believe high flow was the cure until I got into bring my RT all numbers matching front to back. They actually slow the water down on a/c cars, the pump has less impeller blades. Make sure you fan clutch is engaging at the proper temp, adjust if needed. Run a quality large opening thermostat , proper mix in a clean system with good timing and not too lean and lid should be good. I recommend the proper fan blade too of course ... Here is my curve ball, if you have the oem radiator and it’s known to be good,swap it as brass and copper is better than aluminum just not lighter per a very reputable mopar radiator shop up north.
                 
              • Ranger16

                Ranger16 Well-Known Member

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                The stat is cheaper and easier, but I agree with what dadsbee said - "As for that high flow pump, keep in mind that heat dissipation is a time game and you could be putting fluid through the radiator too quickly".
                That WP is spinning at a pretty good RPM and moving a good amount of coolant when the engine is running 2000 RPM (or more).
                 
              • dadsbee

                dadsbee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Keep in mind that all said, your engine isn't really running hot!!
                 
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