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Fan+shroud part numbers for 26" radiator

jteck10

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i bought my '66 Coronet with dual electric fans. My big block 440 runs hot, so im looking to swap back to a fan w/no clutch, radiator, and shroud
im looking for help on a part numbers list. originally my car came with a 318, but the previous owner swapped a 440 into it. i believe some members here helped me decode the engine to determine its a 1973/1974 big block 440.
my OEM temp gauge isnt working, but i have an aftermarket one hooked up that works and reads as 230 once the car is up and running

i was able to purchase a cheap C-body 26" radiator and i'm going to have a shop take a look at it to maybe have it recored and flushed.
i dont mind the fan being always on to keep the car constantly cool, so i wont be going with the fan clutch

part number on the radiator is [2949040 - 18398]. did some digging and i think the radiator is from a 1969 Polara or monaco (C-body) with a 383 2bbl and A/C.
i think that gets me the fan shroud part number of 2785435

what fan should i use since i wont be using a fan clutch? Part #2863216, part #3863215, or other?
since i have a 440 in a car that was born with a 318, will the fan blade sit right in the middle of the fan shroud?
even with the correct shroud and fan #'s? i know i'll have to drill holes in the radiator support to correctly mount the fan so it might depend on where i drill

parts i believe i need are :
- 26" radiator (part #2949040 - 18398)
- 7 blade fan (part #2863216 or part #3863215) ???
- fan shroud for 26" radiator (part #2785435) ???

is this all worth it or should i just find a 22" radiator and parts?

thanks in advance for any help!

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or should i rather find a 22" radiator?

if so, is a 22" radiator enough to cool a 440?
 
Open the hole up (it's a 318 car, no big), run a 26 (I've got a high efficiency Cordoba big block radiator and shroud in place of the 22" slant six stocker).
Get the biggest fan that will fit in the shroud, with as many blades as you can find. It WILL be noisy. Turn up the radio, or get louder mufflers, lol.
Your problem with your current setup is not having room for your electric fans on the pull side.
 
Open the hole up (it's a 318 car, no big), run a 26 (I've got a high efficiency Cordoba big block radiator and shroud in place of the 22" slant six stocker).
Get the biggest fan that will fit in the shroud, with as many blades as you can find. It WILL be noisy. Turn up the radio, or get louder mufflers, lol.
Your problem with your current setup is not having room for your electric fans on the pull side.
thats what i figured, and thats what i was hoping to hear.
now to find a shroud and fan that fit the radiator i have
 
Been there done this! Started with a 22" fan and shroud. That won't make you happy for long. I ran a 22" and even ran the thickest 2 row I could get from Griffin. I eventually swapped in a Griffin 2 row Exact Fit 26" radiator. I really recommend you go with a 26". If you want to keep it copper core, US Car Tool makes a good one, but it sounds like you have a factory 26" that could me made to work, so I'd run with that. Many on here are running factory 26" rads and if everything else is sorted you should have a cool running motor.

Checklist:
- 26" radiator
- 26" shroud (factory plastic replacement from summit or Classic Industries)
- upper and lower radiator hoses in good shape. Ideally with coil spring installed in lower hose to prevent collapse (the forums recommend a mustang size spring and I use this)
- 180 degree F thermostat (Stant brand)
- a thermostat housing that is in good shape.
-18 inch diameter fan (original used or Bouchillon makes a real nice one)
- fan spacer (between fan and pulley) to locate fan half-way into shroud - you'll need to measure for this. Many spacer thicknesses are offered.
- water pump that is in good working order

You only need to cut the opening larger on the passenger side with a small die cutter and then drill 2 new mounting holes on that side. 18 inch diameter fan is the largest you'll want. Source a 26" plastic factory size shroud from Summit or Classic Industries.

Make sure your water pump is in good shape. If not, buy a new one. The milodon 6 and 8 veins worked well for me, but when I switched to the more expensive Flowkooler water pump with many more veins it dropped my coolant temp another 5-10 degrees F.

If you end up installing a smaller diameter water pump pulley for an A/C install like I just did, it significantly increases fan speed and became too loud for me. The solution is to use a clutch fan with clutch, so you might want to consider installing a clutch fan with clutch instead of fixed fan right from the start.

Kudos on installing a new gauge so you know you've got accurate temperature.
Another thing that can affect engine temp is your tune - your carb air/fuel ratio along with your timing.
 
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Been there done this! Started with a 22" fan and shroud. That won't make you happy for long. I ran a 22" and even ran the thickest 2 row I could get from Griffin. I eventually swapped in a Griffin 2 row Exact Fit 26" radiator. I really recommend you go with a 26". If you want to keep it copper core, US Car Tool makes a good one, but it sounds like you have a factory 26" that could me made to work, so I'd run with that. Many on here are running factory 26" rads and if everything else is sorted you should have a cool running motor.

Checklist:
- 26" radiator
- 26" shroud (factory plastic replacement from summit or Classic Industries)
- upper and lower radiator hoses in good shape. Ideally with coil spring installed in lower hose to prevent collapse (the forums recommend a mustang size spring and I use this)
- 180 degree F thermostat (Stant brand)
- a thermostat housing that is in good shape.
-18 inch diameter fan (original used or Bouchillon makes a real nice one)
- fan spacer (between fan and pulley) to locate fan half-way into shroud - you'll need to measure for this. Many spacer thicknesses are offered.
- water pump that is in good working order

You only need to cut the opening larger on the passenger side with a small die cutter and then drill 2 new mounting holes on that side. 18 inch diameter fan is the largest you'll want. Source a 26" plastic factory size shroud from Summit or Classic Industries.

Make sure your water pump is in good shape. If not, buy a new one. The milodon 6 and 8 veins worked well for me, but when I switched to the more expensive Flowkooler water pump with many more veins it dropped my coolant temp another 5-10 degrees F.

If you end up installing a smaller diameter water pump pulley for an A/C install like I just did, it significantly increases fan speed and became too loud for me. The solution is to use a clutch fan with clutch, so you might want to consider installing a clutch fan with clutch instead of fixed fan right from the start.

Kudos on installing a new gauge so you know you've got accurate temperature.
Another thing that can affect engine temp is your tune - your carb air/fuel ratio along with your timing.
F**K yea! this is exactly the response i was looking for, to give me hope.
i just finished looking up a couple more part #'s and i think i got it all sorted out in the below checklist.

question now becomes - am i ok to run without a spacer until i measure/order the correct size?

thanks for the info!

Checklist:
- 26" radiator (in hand, OEM '69 C-body part #2949040 that i'll have re-cored and flushed)
- 26" shroud (found part #2785435 that should fit the rad i have in hand)
- 18 inch diameter fan (original used or Bouchillon makes a real nice one) (found part #2863215 that i'll have to find. with a 18" diameter and 2-1/4" pitch)
- upper and lower radiator hoses in with coil spring installed in lower hose w/mustang size spring (i'll have to look for this as well. the spring is from a mustang?)
- 180 degree F thermostat (Stant brand) (i was recommended a 160 high flow, now im confused on which one)
- a thermostat housing that is in good shape. (this should be easy to find, i'll add it to the list)
- fan spacer (between fan and pulley) to locate fan half-way into shroud - you'll need to measure for this. Many spacer thicknesses are offered. (this might take some time)
- water pump that is in good working order (i was going to use my current one, but it sounds like a new one might help the cause)
 
Here's another FBBO thread. 1st post shows the spring part #. That's how I learned about it.
Lower radiator hose spring - FYI

Yes, you can run without the spacer, but you really shouldn't.
Some run a 160F t-stat, but I'm telling you, I and many others have consistently had best cool running temps with a 180F t-stat.
How old is your current water pump? The bearings eventually wear out and cause friction and it spins less efficiently.
 
Here's another FBBO thread. 1st post shows the spring part #. That's how I learned about it.
Lower radiator hose spring - FYI

Yes, you can run without the spacer, but you really shouldn't.
Some run a 160F t-stat, but I'm telling you, I and many others have consistently had best cool running temps with a 180F t-stat.
How old is your current water pump?
got it, i'll run with the 180 then. should i get normal or hi flow?

no idea on the age of the water pump tho, it came in the engine i have and from what ive found on the car i would be surprised to learn its the original to the car
 
either t-stat is fine. I recently switched to high-flow. The jury is still out if it makes a difference.
I forgot one key thing on the checklist - coolant ratio 50/50 distilled water/antifreeze and fill to 2" from top of rad neck. Try not to use tap water if you can. It works, but distilled runs cooler over time since it won't build up deposits as fast.

Did you get a cap with the radiator? Should be a 16-lb type. Sometimes I've heard a bad cap can also cause engine temps to rise, as can a head gasket leak...now we're getting in the weeds. First things first.
 
by the way, the lower rad hose spring is not totally necessary with today's more rigid hoses, especially if they're new, but it doesn't hurt.
 
either t-stat is fine. I recently switched to high-flow. The jury is still out if it makes a difference.
I forgot one key thing on the checklist - coolant ratio 50/50 distilled water/antifreeze and fill to 2" from top of rad neck. Try not to use tap water if you can. It works, but distilled runs cooler over time since it won't build up deposits as fast.

Did you get a cap with the radiator? Should be a 16-lb type. Sometimes I've heard a bad cap can also cause engine temps to rise, as can a head gasket leak...now we're getting in the weeds. First things first.
buy concentrate and mix 50/50? rather than buy a pre-diluted one?
 
There is a 2863224 18" 7 blade fan on E-bay right now. Non clutch type. 1970-71.
 
There is a 2863224 18" 7 blade fan on E-bay right now. Non clutch type. 1970-71.
just found it and others. look like this one might be better since its specific for a non-clutch. thanks!
 
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