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Feedback on a locker for my 8 3/4

dieseldazzle

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Any reviews on this? Any other options under 400 bux for a street driven 67 charger.

I just want to be able to do 2 wheel burnouts for my kid once I get the 440 in it.

Right now it will peel the one wheel off with the 318 2 barrel.

I will also put 3.55s in it.

Dont want a spool and Im not reckless enough to weld the spider gears up.....

This car will never have a slick or even a drag radial on it

http://www.justdifferentials.com/PLC8-75-p/plc8.75.htm

I havent had any luck finding a used sure grip unit under $400 bux.
 
FUNNY!
YY1 just posted Thursday the average prices of "center pieces" and listed them in sequence...
Another words:
3:23
3:55
etc...
I'll find the post for you....

- - - Updated - - -

FUNNY!
YY1 just posted Thursday the average prices of "center pieces" and listed them in sequence...
Another words:
3:23
3:55
etc...

I'll find the post for you....
Here is the POST by YY1


I've had really good luck buying used center sections. In nearly 30 years, I've bought about a dozen, and only got one bad one, and I suspected it needed refreshed when I got it (bearings are stiff). Look at the gears carefully for evidence that it's sat out in the elements, or has been dropped or run set up improperly. Spin it by hand while paying attention to the feel- no binding, or stiffness- no wobble or play. Most likely issue with used (and hardest to check) is slipping SG, although for the price of a used unit and a rebuild kit (clutch only*) you're usually money ahead vs buying a new SG unit.

Chunk pricing has been relatively flat, but lately there's been a lot of pie high asking prices, and very recently I'm starting to see asking premiums for clutch units (vs cone).

Here's what I've been tracking-

(all SG)

2.94- $300
3.23- $350
3.55- $400
3.91- $450

add $50 for 742 case and $100 for 489 case.

You will likely have close to $1000 buying things new and having it setup.
Knock a couple hundred off that if you can set it up yourself, but you'll need dial indicators, a spanner, and maybe a spline holder device.

I wouldn't mess with the bearings unless you know they are bad. Usually they'll tell you (via howl) well before causing any damage.

A whole housing assembly for 71 and up B will be a challenge. Those are the hardest ones to find (esp SG)...and you've already got one!
An E body housing is about 3/4 inch shorter (and 5/8 closer perches), but should work.
You're still up against the odds though on it having an SG and the gears you want.
They made a lot of 318 E bodies with 2.73 open gears (although they pretty much all had the 489 case).


Again, this research was performed by a fellow team member YY1
If you think it helps you, send him a PM and thank him AND send him a thanks ....
 
Any other options under 400 bux for a street driven 67 charger.

Nope. Rebuilding your center section will cost $800- $1000 range, especially since you don't have the sure grip unit - I just had mine rebuilt a year ago.

The only low cost option is finding a complete center section and just slapping it in and hoping for the best, then selling yours to recoup some cost. Are you comfortable risking putting in and using a defective / damaged unit?
 
The locker is wrong for your car. I have one in my car for 10 years. Works great, but it's noisy . makes loud clicks occasionally when making turns. Sometimes you feel a jerk when turning too. Try the Thorson differential. It uses worm gears instead of clutches. I think it might be called a tru-trac....... Dave
 
Chrysler 8.75", 30 Spline, Nitro Power Lock.....the one in the pic from the link....if it's like the factory setup inside the unit, then it's a good one. If it's a Trac-Lock like used on the later model trucks and SUV's then it's junk in my book but usually the Trac-Lock is housed in a one piece case. The Power Lock is a good unit (factory style) with replacement clutches available and they work well. The Trac-Lock has the clutches located outboard of the side gears and is a pain in the butt to replace them without the proper and expensive tools. You just need to talk to a knowledgeable tech at Just Diffs about how it's made.
 
Nope. Rebuilding your center section will cost $800- $1000 range, especially since you don't have the sure grip unit - I just had mine rebuilt a year ago.

The only low cost option is finding a complete center section and just slapping it in and hoping for the best, then selling yours to recoup some cost. Are you comfortable risking putting in and using a defective / damaged unit?


I just mean is there another low cost option with regards to a locker. I undersand that any other hard parts I find issue with I will have to spend money on such as carrier bearings etc. I also understand that I will have to spend money on the new 3.55 gear set, pinion bearing,seals etc.

I just mean the actual locker unit

Ive put gears in many 8.8 ford rear ends and Im gonna take a stab at fiddling with my 8 3/4 on my own.
 
i have a EATON TRUE TRAC in my 68 charger 8 3/4. it is a helical gear type that is loose when cruising and turning and when apply power the 2 gears connect and spins both wheels. i think i paid about $500 for it and one of the best upgrades i did. lockers are no good for street, and i dont know your laws but there illegal on the street here.
 
I just mean is there another low cost option with regards to a locker. I undersand that any other hard parts I find issue with I will have to spend money on such as carrier bearings etc. I also understand that I will have to spend money on the new 3.55 gear set, pinion bearing,seals etc.

I just mean the actual locker unit

Ive put gears in many 8.8 ford rear ends and Im gonna take a stab at fiddling with my 8 3/4 on my own.

Oh gotcha. How about dr diff? He has a reproduction clutch type sure grip unit that I believe is just like those that came in the 742 case BITD.
 
I have been running this Locker in my car for years and it works good for me. It makes a little noise sometimes but most of the time I dont even realize I have a Locker. But sometimes you will feel it or hear it lock back up. Its no big deal at all to me and its worked good on the street and at the track for me. I like it but if you run one just remember it will make a little noise sometimes which is no big deal to me. Ron

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYBOoljH-qE&feature=related
 
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