FINALLY!!! NEW GARAGE is framed up!

[8stackhemi]

So far, this project has taken over a year......& is still going! Excavation problems, concrete problems, two civil lawsuits against two concrete contractors & still searching for the building contractor who took our 8K deposit to build the garage & left town unanounced, plus following up on other issues & debacles.....BUT we are finallly moving ahead!
It's amazing how many dishonest people are out there in this SC area. We retired here from MI about 8 years ago where all my friends worked in the trades & were HONEST people! Moving here & not knowing anyone has it's drawbacks, for sure, but i've NOW found reputable folks i can rely on & work with. Thank God!!!
I'm geeked that this is getting close to being done. Next big purchase will be another car lift similar to my 4-post in my existing garage. Whoopee!

 

[topside]

Construction & remodels are slow up here in N Idaho, too; some guys don't even answer their phones or return calls.
There's a big "toy-condo" storage facility nearby that was supposed to be ready by September - just drove past it and only a dozen shops look finished, with no paving yet. They were pouring a couple more slabs and had a row framed & mostly skinned, but they look WAY behind schedule.

 

[PlymCrazy]

That toybox is coming along great!

 

[Kern Dog]

I know that construction standards vary a bit from zone to zone but this part had me curious.
Here is yours:

The next picture is a roof I framed last year. Note the blocking at the ridge and the diagonal bracing at the gable ends. I'm surprised that neither is required in your garage. Was that done and not shown in the pictures?

Both add tremendous torsional resistance in the roof structure.
Otherwise, everything looks great.

 

[3sloppydogs]

I'm not an engineer or builder but my shop didn't get those either.
The question is, is there a difference because of trusses as opposed to stick built?

 

[67 GTX]

Congrats! Hope it's smooth sailing from here on out!

 

[Coronet_Arch]

The difference in blocking and diagonal bracing could have to do with different seismic zones. California is much more active for earthquakes than South Carolina. There are maps in the building code that show different seismic zones for the different area of the nation. California always had the strictest building code regulations in the country for seismic requirements.

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

@8stackhemi , love those rafters , lots of storage room .

 

[Kern Dog]

I'm not an engineer or builder but my shop didn't get those either.
The question is, is there a difference because of trusses as opposed to stick built?

Out here in the West, we have to build to earthquake standards. When the ground shakes, the buildings sway around.
Anyone in the path of tornados or hurricanes are at risk of wind pushing their buildings sideways off of the foundation.
In both cases, it is my opinion that you'd want as rigid of a building as possible.
Maybe the engineers and inspectors elsewhere have determined that the buildings are sturdy enough without the bracing and blocking.
Here, we have blocking at the wall line and ridge to make what they call perimeter nailing of the plywood sheathing. In some cases, we have to put blocks at every 4 foot to fully nail the perimeters on each sheet! The bracing from the walls up through the trusses into blocking keeps the whole roof intact and square. Every row of blocks that a brace is nailed to has to be nailed through the sheathing to tie it together.
Hey...if the building matches the plans and passed inspection, that is fine. I am biased in my opinions due to my entire body of work being in California where they go to the Nth degree on structural matters.

 

[cosgig]

Out here in the West, we have to build to earthquake standards. When the ground shakes, the buildings sway around.
Anyone in the path of tornados or hurricanes are at risk of wind pushing their buildings sideways off of the foundation.
In both cases, it is my opinion that you'd want as rigid of a building as possible.
Maybe the engineers and inspectors elsewhere have determined that the buildings are sturdy enough without the bracing and blocking.
Here, we have blocking at the wall line and ridge to make what they call perimeter nailing of the plywood sheathing. In some cases, we have to put blocks at every 4 foot to fully nail the perimeters on each sheet! The bracing from the walls up through the trusses into blocking keeps the whole roof intact and square. Every row of blocks that a brace is nailed to has to be nailed through the sheathing to tie it together.
Hey...if the building matches the plans and passed inspection, that is fine. I am biased in my opinions due to my entire body of work being in California where they go to the Nth degree on structural matters.

I tend to overbuild a little myself. On my garage I used conventional framing instead of trusses and have a complete 2nd floor. 3 dormers, and 2x12 rafters, knee walls under the rafters, at 5” and collar ties, every 32”. The 2x12 were only $300 more than 2x8, which I could’ve easily used, but no, not me!

 

[moparedtn]

Dang y'all, just be happy for the brother!
@8stackhemi

 

[hdwrench]

yep , i’m happy for ya ! we in the midst of needing an additional garage/shop area . we built a 24’ x 36’ barn style a few years ago and both floors are packed to ceiling and not much possibility of a two post lift . we got plenty of land but it’s mostly sloped, and available electricity is a problem so a viable building site is hard to choose . i have to make some tuff decisions shortly….

 

[8stackhemi]

I know that construction standards vary a bit from zone to zone but this part had me curious.
Here is yours:

View attachment 1514326

The next picture is a roof I framed last year. Note the blocking at the ridge and the diagonal bracing at the gable ends. I'm surprised that neither is required in your garage. Was that done and not shown in the pictures?


View attachment 1514324
Both add tremendous torsional resistance in the roof structure.
Otherwise, everything looks great.

Appreciate the comments & suggestions. There is blocking at each truss, but due to the galvanized plates at the top joining the rafters, the blocking is moved down about 12" or so. Can't use the diagonal bracing you have used, since the trusses are designed/engineered for an 8/12 inner ceiling Identical to the 8/12 pitch outer roof. I did it that way for clearance for the two lifts i want to include. I could have built 12' or 13' walls & had an attic, BUT the structure would have looked enormous next to the existing garage. As it were the walls measure 11' tall outside (design of the truss) & about 10'6 inside wall height. I HATE HOA's and all the restrictions!!!!!! If i did not live in this retirement community, it would have been a STEEL BUILDING GARAGE, period, & TWICE THE SIZE. It is what it is.

 

[Kern Dog]

Thanks.
Please understand that I meant no criticism, just concern. If the engineers and inspectors signed off on the design, that is good enough. Your lack of earthquake activity surely dictates some leeway in design.
I've had my own confidence shaken a bit these past few years.
Imagine that all your career, you're repeatedly told that "XYZ" was necessary and absolutely mandatory for structural integrity....then tear off drywall during remodeling work in an 80 year old house...to find none of it anywhere. Yeah, the house is still standing yet it has none of those absolutely essential reinforcements.
I helped a few friends with their houses and am always amazed to find framing under the drywall that would get me fired instantly on any job today.
It was a reality check. I've had to come to the realization that what I have been trained to think is probably way overkill for anyplace other than an earthquake zone.
Another angle to it:
The manufacturers of all those metal reinforcement straps, brackets, hangers and buckets MUST have heavily invested/donated/lobbied/bribed the building department officials to get their products mandated for new construction.
My first house was a 1200 sq ft shack with plywood siding. The roof was truss with 3/8" plywood held on with staples.
Nowadays, all plywood used in new homes is thicker and fastened with nails a specific space apart from each other, straps, clips and other hardware is required. My old house still stands without any of that stuff.
Sorry for the detour to my tangent....I'm just having a moment here.

Congratulations on this huge step. I like the look of it and the high ceilings will be great!

 

[8stackhemi]

No, thank you! Funny, i've wanted another (or bigger) garage for years & years. Now, at 74 i FINALLY do it & then run into so many roadblocks......meaning contractors with NO integrity. Two civil suits later & one arrest warrant still out for one guy has taught me i'm never too old & smart to avoid all this. Life is short (and getting quicker, too!) at my age, but i'm loving this project (my wife thinks I'm nuts, though!) and VERY SOON I will have some cars in it. I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS FORUM......have for so many years, too! PLEASE DO NOT stop sending 'constructive' (get it?) suggestions and/or questions my way, ever! It keeps my mind active & gives me many many opportunities to make 'adjustments' as i believe it's never too late! THANKS AGAIN! Scott

 

[moparedtn]

Appreciate the comments & suggestions. There is blocking at each truss, but due to the galvanized plates at the top joining the rafters, the blocking is moved down about 12" or so. Can't use the diagonal bracing you have used, since the trusses are designed/engineered for an 8/12 inner ceiling Identical to the 8/12 pitch outer roof. I did it that way for clearance for the two lifts i want to include. I could have built 12' or 13' walls & had an attic, BUT the structure would have looked enormous next to the existing garage. As it were the walls measure 11' tall outside (design of the truss) & about 10'6 inside wall height. I HATE HOA's and all the restrictions!!!!!! If i did not live in this retirement community, it would have been a STEEL BUILDING GARAGE, period, & TWICE THE SIZE. It is what it is.

View attachment 1515236

It looks pretty darn nice to me - and what a concept, it sorta matches the house!

 

[BSB67]

Thanks.
Please understand that I meant no criticism, just concern. If the engineers and inspectors signed off on the design, that is good enough. Your lack of earthquake activity surely dictates some leeway in design.
I've had my own confidence shaken a bit these past few years.
Imagine that all your career, you're repeatedly told that "XYZ" was necessary and absolutely mandatory for structural integrity....then tear off drywall during remodeling work in an 80 year old house...to find none of it anywhere. Yeah, the house is still standing yet it has none of those absolutely essential reinforcements.
I helped a few friends with their houses and am always amazed to find framing under the drywall that would get me fired instantly on any job today.
It was a reality check. I've had to come to the realization that what I have been trained to think is probably way overkill for anyplace other than an earthquake zone.
Another angle to it:
The manufacturers of all those metal reinforcement straps, brackets, hangers and buckets MUST have heavily invested/donated/lobbied/bribed the building department officials to get their products mandated for new construction.
My first house was a 1200 sq ft shack with plywood siding. The roof was truss with 3/8" plywood held on with staples.
Nowadays, all plywood used in new homes is thicker and fastened with nails a specific space apart from each other, straps, clips and other hardware is required. My old house still stands without any of that stuff.

FWIW. Here in western PA, no hurricanes, no tropical storms, no tornadoes, no earthquakes, just snow load. All of the items you described are required.

I wasn’t sure if the diagonals were just needed for the construction phase, and not needed once it was sheathed and shingled. Asked my general a couple years later about cutting a section out of one of my diagonal supports. Hard no, unless it was replaced elsewhere.