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Finally Some Pics of the 69 GTX

1969VAGTX

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Location
Fredericksburg, VA
After going back and forth with the people for a month, I finally pulled the trigger on this 69 GTX. Some of you may have seen it for sale out of a dealer in Ohio. I was able to get them to come down on the list price some, which made it a little easier to swallow. The build on this car is a few years old, but the motor was completed about two years ago. Was told this was built back to factory specs (although I'm not really convinced of that). It has a number of quirky things I need to straighten out. Some of it comes from a car that clearly has just sat and not been driven. Couple minor cosmetic things that I need to address.

Took it for a shake down drive up the road. The steering is a little sloppy, and not as responsive as I would expect from a manual steering car. The brakes seem to stop okay. Noticed the steering coupler hold down (or whatever it is called) has popped off, but should be able to pry open the teeth and get it back on. Probably needs new tires given all the vibrations. The horn does not work. The turn signal switch could probably stand to be replaced. The fresh air cable appears to be broke or not connected, but I will probably just replace that with a new one. The carbs are horribly out of adjustment. Took forever to get it to warm up, and I discovered what appears to be no choke on the carbs. At idle, it seems okay, but in gear the idle is way too low causing the car to stall frequently. Looking at the linkage, it almost appears that the front carb is not even being engaged unless the throttle is nearly wide open. As an aside, does anyone know anyone in Virginia or Maryland who has experience with tuning these dual quad setups, because it is a little beyond my skill level to do it well?

Otherwise, I am very happy with the car. The body is in great shape. I am probably going to have a little paint correction and ceramic coat done to protect that black. The interior is in excellent shape with the exception of a couple very minor things.

Old school Hemis are new to me, so I will be leaning on the expertise here for sure.

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This is the rear carb where the choke would presumably be. I will get some better pics when I tinker with it some more this weekend.
1969 Plymouth GTX 36.jpg
 
Great looking GTX. Need a good picture of the other side of the carbs to tell if the choke assembly is in place on the rear carburetor. Is there a choke plate in the front of the rear carburetor. Also are the choke tubes blocked off or missing. Pressing the accelerator is there a hard spot in the petal about half way down? From under the hood with the air cleaner off you can open the throttle wide open and the linkage should be adjusted so that the front carburetor is also wide open. I'm not sure if a 69 automatic car has a throttle solenoid to kick the idle up in drive as mine are 4-speeds. Hope you enjoy your car.
 
Great looking GTX. Need a good picture of the other side of the carbs to tell if the choke assembly is in place on the rear carburetor. Is there a choke plate in the front of the rear carburetor. Also are the choke tubes blocked off or missing. Pressing the accelerator is there a hard spot in the petal about half way down? From under the hood with the air cleaner off you can open the throttle wide open and the linkage should be adjusted so that the front carburetor is also wide open. I'm not sure if a 69 automatic car has a throttle solenoid to kick the idle up in drive as mine are 4-speeds. Hope you enjoy your car.

I'm going to get the air cleaner off this weekend. Then I can get a better look. But when I peaked under, I didn't see any sign of any choke-related parts. In the meantime, I am pretty sure the throttle linkage is all screwed up. Neither of the rods appeared to be seated against the end of their respective carb studs. Will know better this weekend. Pretty sure I can at least get the linkage right. Might explain why the trans seemed to act funny also. I think all those parts also need some good lube as they seemed stiff, particularly the gas pedal. Any good recommendations on lube for the linkage parts?
 
Great looking GTX. The black paint, steelies and redlines look awesome together…and the HEMI isn’t hurting anything either…:thumbsup:
 
I'm going to get the air cleaner off this weekend. Then I can get a better look. But when I peaked under, I didn't see any sign of any choke-related parts. In the meantime, I am pretty sure the throttle linkage is all screwed up. Neither of the rods appeared to be seated against the end of their respective carb studs. Will know better this weekend. Pretty sure I can at least get the linkage right. Might explain why the trans seemed to act funny also. I think all those parts also need some good lube as they seemed stiff, particularly the gas pedal. Any good recommendations on lube for the linkage parts?
Might also need to adjust the kickdown linkage, if the transmission isn't shifting right.
 
Might also need to adjust the kickdown linkage, if the transmission isn't shifting right.
Yeah, I'm going to take a look at all of it. I'm learning as I go with this thing, but I can read and follow pictures and I have the service manual.
 
Nice looking car. Don’t get too carried away tinkering with the engine/trans linkages without first getting a copy of the factory service manual. The engine has progressive throttle linkage and both carbs have idle circuits but the front carb does not begin to open until the rear is about 30% +/- open, then it begins to open at an increased rate compared to the rate of the rear one so that both are wide open together. My car and a friends Hemi, both have pretty stiff pedals, especially near full throttle - you really have to plant your foot on the pedal to get there. Both the throttle slot on the front carb and the slot in the kick down rod will have play in them at idle position - that’s by design. The transmission kick down rod adjustment is a bit involved so you need the FSM and probably some advice from members here.
 
Nice looking car. Don’t get too carried away tinkering with the engine/trans linkages without first getting a copy of the factory service manual. The engine has progressive throttle linkage and both carbs have idle circuits but the front carb does not begin to open until the rear is about 30% +/- open, then it begins to open at an increased rate compared to the rate of the rear one so that both are wide open together. My car and a friends Hemi, both have pretty stiff pedals, especially near full throttle - you really have to plant your foot on the pedal to get there. Both the throttle slot on the front carb and the slot in the kick down rod will have play in them at idle position - that’s by design. The transmission kick down rod adjustment is a bit involved so you need the FSM and probably some advice from members here.

Bought the service manual before I even took delivery of the car. I am pretty confident in my ability to get the linkages adjusted right. The actual tuning on the other hand is another question. I actually found a shop in Richmond, VA that has built a bunch of Mopars and has experience tuning them for street driving. I'm going to have them go over the whole car to get it road worthy.
 
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