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Gauge steel of b bodies?

Vicb440

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Hopefully this is the right topic to post on. I want to know the gauge steel the front subframes and the crossmembers are on the 68-70 b-bodies. I plan on patching the these parts. I have a welder, gas, and mild steel to bend.
 
Hopefully this is the right topic to post on. I want to know the gauge steel the front subframes and the crossmembers are on the 68-70 b-bodies. I plan on patching the these parts. I have a welder, gas, and mild steel to bend.

I think it is 16 gauge on the substructure, but it could be closer to 14 gauge. 16 GA is
.062 and a half thousandth. If you have a 0-1"
micrometer, you can get very close on a measurement.
 
Ummm if I had to patch some frame rail places I do not think I would just use factory thickness metal but go heavier
In the past I have made the short section of frame that the rear springs mount to on a second gen B body
 
You are patching the K-frame ? What front "cross-member" are you referring ?
 
I think it is 16 gauge on the substructure, but it could be closer to 14 gauge. 16 GA is
.062 and a half thousandth. If you have a 0-1"
micrometer, you can get very close on a measurement.
This is the subframe on the passenger side. I guess I should replace the whole subframe with a new piece. Or should I fabricrate. I think I have to take the motor out and the fenders and hood too.

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IMG_0622.jpeg
 
Ummm if I had to patch some frame rail places I do not think I would just use factory thickness metal but go heavier
In the past I have made the short section of frame that the rear springs mount to on a second gen B body
I was taught at penn tech. Keep the gauges the same and weld the new metal into the old metal. If your angle is from old to new you will burn the old metal more easily.
 
This is the subframe on the passenger side. I guess I should replace the whole subframe with a new piece. Or should I fabricrate. I think I have to take the motor out and the fenders and hood too.

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Replace the car imo. On my 73 Barracuda it started with the front frame rail ended up everything but rockers and roof. I only used factory frame pieces
 
AMD is going to be your new best friend. That car needs a lot of new metal....
 
or a solid donor......but if the donor is solid, just build that one :rolleyes:
Exactly what I was thinking, but didn't want to be the first to say it. Don't think I would bother with that car unless it was something rare like a Hemi or A12.
 
If you want to do the work to replace all of the sheetmetal, I probably have some decent front framerails, but I will need to look. Also,
I should have a good used torsion bar crossmember, that will need a small patch,
but in good useable condition with the patch.
If interested contact me.
 
Ouch
Before you start you will need to take everything off the front of the car to see what you really have
By the time you clean the ugly back till you find good metal it might just be easier to change the whole frame rail
Sounds like you might know how to weld
Just becareful you do not take too much apart at a time and hate yourself for even starting such a project
Try to do one side at a time
 
This is the subframe on the passenger side. I guess I should replace the whole subframe with a new piece. Or should I fabricrate. I think I have to take the motor out and the fenders and hood too.

View attachment 1526239

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Oof!!!! I would replace the entire frame rail. It is a pretty intricate area and that rust looks nasty. Inner fender skirts look good. Framerail and upper shock mounts are suspect.

I had a similar issue on my 69 GTX, driver side looked as bad. I ended up grafting in a new, complete doghouse from a donor car. A lot less work imho.
Old
20160423_065937.jpg

New
20160428_215040.jpg
 
Notice I welded up supports under my front end before taking anything off. And I painted witness marks on garage floor where the supports are. New section went on perfectly. Scabbing the two parts together is a whole other topic.

14ga sounds right for framework. Sheetmetal is 18ga
 
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