• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Gen 3 Holley terminator x(max) users…no alternator wiring in harness???

What’s up dock

Well-Known Member
Local time
8:31 AM
Joined
Aug 30, 2021
Messages
126
Reaction score
60
Location
Michigan’s thumb
So, before my charger project was finished, I got an itch to use the Holley 12.3 dash. This led me to use the terminator x max system, which would simplify the interface between the two, since it’s just plug and play.
I removed the mopar wiring system , started laying out the Holley stuff…….no support for alternator. Doing a basic search on this, all I see is to use the Holley alternator relocation kit, which is ANOTHER 560 bucks.
Is there a way to use the factory alternator?
 
Should be able to, kind of depends what you are using for the ignition system and the related wiring.
 
Yes, there is. What year alternator are you using.
 
Well, I'm using the terminator X max for ignition.
I'll have to get the part number off of the alternator after work today, but its the late hemi factory style. It uses the production 2 pin plug in, like this.

20220929_061353.jpg
 
Well, I'm using the terminator X max for ignition.
I'll have to get the part number off of the alternator after work today, but its the late hemi factory style. It uses the production 2 pin plug in, like this.

View attachment 1349914
Ok, that alternator is PWM. You use an output to control it. I can help you out with that. I need an approximate year/model of the alt so I can get a wiring diagram to tell you which pins do what.
 
Ok, that alternator is PWM. You use an output to control it. I can help you out with that. I need an approximate year/model of the alt so I can get a wiring diagram to tell you which pins do what.
Thanks for the help! It looks like I have a 04801833AB. I did cut the pigtail off of the 2017 6.4 harness, which is a brown and red wire.
 
Thanks for the help! It looks like I have a 04801833AB. I did cut the pigtail off of the 2017 6.4 harness, which is a brown and red wire.
Then I will go with that and get a wiring diagram. I am out of town but when I get home I have another guy's tunes to look at and I can get a screenshot of my alternator output setup. No aftermarket efi will have a plug n play alternator.
 
Thanks Nxcoupe. No rush, lots to do on this one! I did pull the diagram for a 2017 6.4, and it lists the brown as "field control", and the red as "sense". That was from the Dealer Connect system.
 
Thanks Nxcoupe. No rush, lots to do on this one! I did pull the diagram for a 2017 6.4, and it lists the brown as "field control", and the red as "sense". That was from the Dealer Connect system.
Yep. I'll look later when I get back to my room and my work computer. I need to determine which wire we use.
 
I am following this as well. I have the same parts, Terminator X Max and the 04801833AB alternator. I have to source the pigtail but will need the wiring info.
 
The brown with gray tracer into the C2 connector is the PWM to field the alternator. The other wire is for the pcm to monitor the voltage, but could be key on sense. Have to check one to verify or you wire it up and leave that wire disconnected and we see if it has voltage or not and go from there. I'll open my holley laptop up in a bit and share my IO setup.
20221002_192322.jpg
 
So, before my charger project was finished, I got an itch to use the Holley 12.3 dash. This led me to use the terminator x max system, which would simplify the interface between the two, since it’s just plug and play.
I removed the mopar wiring system , started laying out the Holley stuff…….no support for alternator. Doing a basic search on this, all I see is to use the Holley alternator relocation kit, which is ANOTHER 560 bucks.
Is there a way to use the factory alternator?
Ok, so this explains the operation and the last paragraph sums it up, the other wire isn't used, it's just connected internally to the B+ post. Just need the PWM+, or high side driver for it to work. That could be an issue with a terminator as all you have is PWM-, or low side drivers. In this case, you will need a solid state relay, I use the MSD 4 in 1 relay. It is able to be switched either by ground or positive to activate. So you pwm it, and it in turn PWM+ your alternator. It also protects the computer from back feeding or over drawing the transistor/driver.
 
I am offering this as an alternative to having the alternator "talk" with the Holley Terminator system. A video by Rhylis Productions stated he had his Mopar Denso alternator converted to a one-wire style by a local alternator shop. I shot him an email in the hopes he can provide more info on the conversion. I believe he's located in California or I'd get the name of the shop. He suggested the cost was reasonable. I imagine an internal regulator withor without self-excite capability was installed. In addition I found a Michigan-based outfit Quick Start that carries a large inventory of alternator parts including those that solve common problems. I have an inquiry into them regarding an internal regulator with self-excite. What's up dock you may be familiar with this outfit. If I get any positive info I will post it here if the OP doesn't mind. Here is the video link:
 
Thanks guys.
Ok, so this explains the operation and the last paragraph sums it up, the other wire isn't used, it's just connected internally to the B+ post. Just need the PWM+, or high side driver for it to work. That could be an issue with a terminator as all you have is PWM-, or low side drivers. In this case, you will need a solid state relay, I use the MSD 4 in 1 relay. It is able to be switched either by ground or positive to activate. So you pwm it, and it in turn PWM+ your alternator. It also protects the computer from back feeding or over drawing the transistor/driver.
I've never messed with PWM+ or -! So, using the msd 4 in 1 relay, you would take pwm- signal from the holley box, and it changed it to pwm+? And this is done on the "trigger" side of the relay? Meaning pwm- into the neg trigger, and normal keyed ignition source trigger, and output becomes pwm+.
Reading the instructions of the relay, and I see only the higher amp version is pwm compatible, it says you can only use pwm for 30 minutes continuously?
I am offering this as an alternative to having the alternator "talk" with the Holley Terminator system. A video by Rhylis Productions stated he had his Mopar Denso alternator converted to a one-wire style by a local alternator shop. I shot him an email in the hopes he can provide more info on the conversion. I believe he's located in California or I'd get the name of the shop. He suggested the cost was reasonable. I imagine an internal regulator withor without self-excite capability was installed. In addition I found a Michigan-based outfit Quick Start that carries a large inventory of alternator parts including those that solve common problems. I have an inquiry into them regarding an internal regulator with self-excite. What's up dock you may be familiar with this outfit. If I get any positive info I will post it here if the OP doesn't mind. Here is the video link:

I've never heard of the Michigan company. I did call, and sounds like it would work. I'd love to be able to figure out this newer tech, and use internal systems like what the holley system is able to do. But, like my grandpa before me, I have trouble with this new ****!
 
You and Nxcoupe are talking above my paygrade. The guy from Rylis Productions said any local premium auto sound system shop could do the upgrade. He did not provide the part #, manufacturer or the shop name associated with his upgrade. I spoke to Quick Start and they only offer the kit for an external regulator ERCKFRM071. It goes for $120. I will search the local auto sound shops to determine if they are capable of the conversion.
 
Thanks guys.

I've never messed with PWM+ or -! So, using the msd 4 in 1 relay, you would take pwm- signal from the holley box, and it changed it to pwm+? And this is done on the "trigger" side of the relay? Meaning pwm- into the neg trigger, and normal keyed ignition source trigger, and output becomes pwm+.
Reading the instructions of the relay, and I see only the higher amp version is pwm compatible, it says you can only use pwm for 30 minutes continuously?

I've never heard of the Michigan company. I did call, and sounds like it would work. I'd love to be able to figure out this newer tech, and use internal systems like what the holley system is able to do. But, like my grandpa before me, I have trouble with this new ****!
Mine works fine. I have the low power relay and I run my fuel pump PWM with it, my fan, and some other stuff with no issues.
Yes, that is what I mean with the PWM- from the termy controlling the MSD relay's low side to PWM+ the alternator. I'll screenshot my set up, it should make it a no brainer.
 
Mine works fine. I have the low power relay and I run my fuel pump PWM with it, my fan, and some other stuff with no issues.
Yes, that is what I mean with the PWM- from the termy controlling the MSD relay's low side to PWM+ the alternator. I'll screenshot my set up, it should make it a no brainer.

I'll screenshot my set up, it should make it a no brainer.
That would be great, I appreciate it!

64 sportfury, I did call a local alternator shop today, and they said they will install a field exciter for 75 bucks. I'd like to see what they do for that. I may set up a second one for the shelf.
 
I've unable to find any help here in NE Florida. I went ahead and ordered a Mechman 240 amp one-wire. I'll sell the Mopar piece. If we only knew before...
 
Will do. Ordered through Summit. Made in the USA. It requires a switched 12v which I believe means it not self-excite or once the key is turned on she's charging.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top