Heater box parts
- Thread starter 19polara64
- Start date
friendofvirgil
Well-Known Member
That is called a Vacuum Control Switch. It can be repaired. From Anthony Powell's post on 62-65 Mopar website:
"Almost all the switches in our old cars have the vacuum ports broken off of them. I have machined a repair kit to fix this problem.
View vacuum control switch, Before View vacuum control switch, After
I will repair your switch and send it back to you for $75.00, (I prefer U.S. Postal Money Order), shipping included. You can't buy these switches from any vender. My parts will make it work like new. The rebuild includes new vacuum port assembly, replace any broken wafer boards, and replace all busted or damaged pushbuttons. I can repair all 4 or 5 button switches from 1957 to 1973. View vacuum control switch example.
Another new product is the vacuum switch that bolts onto the blower motor switch on 1962 to 1965 AC cars. The cost to redo this switch is $55.00 shipping included.
View vacuum control switch, Before View vacuum control switch, After
I also fix the temperature control switch for 1962-1965 air cars that is located on the plenum box behind the glove box. This temperature control switch is almost always broken. I can rebuild yours for $55.00. The replacement is made out of aluminum to last a lifetime. Send yours with money order or cashier's check. View temperature control switch. Shipping is included.
I prefer U.S. Postal Money Order for all orders.
I usually get the switches back in the mail the day after I receive them, unless they arrive on a Friday.
Contact: Anthony Powell, Dept. 1962 to 1965 Mopar, 1305 North Grant Drive, Sherman, TX 75092 Or e-mail aepowell66@gmail.com"
Anthony has done a ton of work for me including items he has not listed. He is excellent. Should you go a different route, would you sell me your broken one? Thanks, Bill
friendofvirgil
Well-Known Member
This one is in good condition and didn't need to go to Anthony.
19polara64
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info! I’ll send mine in. That heater box is in great shape! Did you rebuild it or were you lucky enough to get it that way?
friendofvirgil
Well-Known Member
HA! There's no such luck in Mopars. I rebuilt that A/C box starting with complete disassembly, drilling out the spot welds to remove the drain tray, replating everything in either clear or yellow zinc, welding the tray back in the box, having a radiator shop pressure test the evaporator and heater cores, then reassembly. You don't want to know how much time and money. But, I'll do it again!
If you've started with mouse/rat piss and nests, you have to do it this way otherwise the car smells like mouse/rat piss every day even though it might look great.
19polara64
Well-Known Member
Ya I thought so lol. I’m in the same boat. Having a hard time finding a shop to test them. Do you have any more pictures and/or tips/vendors that will help me out?
friendofvirgil
Well-Known Member
Are the hoses a specific type?
I think these hoses are 3/32" dia vacuum hose, but one should verify that. Though not 'correct', what matters is function. I've repaired many that were chewed away by rodents. As long as you are repairing a run between connectors, you can purchase black plastic vacuum hose connectors and a length of 3/32" vacuum hose from an auto parts supply. Some places like NAPA might still have it available on a spool. Boutique auto parts stores such as Autozone and ORieilly have moved to pre-cut length being sold in a cardboard-backed clear plastic package. If you don't like your options for vacuum connectors or hose at your local auto parts store, try McMaster-Carr.
Can a parts store hose the correct size work, but just not look correct?
Yes.
And I see a wagon!
Yes.
friendofvirgil
Well-Known Member
For shops to do your testing, you'd need to pack and ship, but both of these places do great work on old car radiators, heater cores, and A/C evaporators and condensers-
Radiator Works, 18255 Parthenia St, Northridge, CA 91325 (818) 701-0504(ask for Marshall)
Ace Radiator http://www.aceradiatorinc.com/ serving Fort Wayne, IN(original location), Columbus, OH, and Cincinnati, OH. (If you call in to Fort Wayne, ask for John)
For plating, Burbank Plating in Pacoima, CA
For insulation, call REM Automotive and tell them you want to buy a sheet or two of their stock they use to make the kick panel insulation. You'll have to cut this yourself with a sharp utility knife and a steel straight-edge. Change your blades often and do your cuts on a large piece of plywood, not the driveway or garage floor.
For the gasket and seal kit, Detroit Muscle Technologies https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/
DON'T THROW ANYTHING AWAY. ANY THING! You'll want the inside insulation backing to use as a template when cutting replacements. You're welcome.
Now you know everything! The rest is uncharted water and up to you how deep you want to dive. By the way, the last one I had restored instead of doing myself was 15 years ago by a place called SMS Restorations in New York (not the interior place but similar name). They charged me $1100 and said that's the last A/C box they would ever do. I still have their restored box installed in a car and it works great and looked great to me until I did my own with DMT's gasket set.
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