Help - Electrical Gremlins

[Sixpactogo]

This is a great - simple diagram. Thanks. I will note that my car does not appear to have the fuse-able link between the relay and amp meter, unless it’s under the dash and I just haven’t seen it.

I think you are correct in your car more than likely didn't have a fusible link. Not sure when they started putting them in but maybe closer to mid 60's.
I know my 60 Dart does not have one and my 65 Fury does. My 60 doesn't even have a fuse box for that matter. I like that simple diagram because it basically shows which wires are hot all the time and which are hot in Accessory and ignition mode. Good luck in tracking down your problem.

 

[Stumper]

Man I am at a loss tying to find the source of my short. Took the seat out today and spent several hours under the dash sorting out wires, redoing a couple of connections. No signs anywhere under the dash of burnt wires or where anything arced. I took the old relay apart expecting (hoping) to find it burned up but it looked good.. I guess as soon as that new bulkhead connector comes in I’ll just put it all together and try it… I may try with the old dash panel first. Basically go back to where everything was when it was working.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Have you verified whether the short is in the engine compartment or under the dash. I would start with unplugging the bulkhead connectors and verify the short is not under the hood first. Then plug them in one by one while checking for the short. Once you have ruled out the under hood harness's, then with the bulhead harness plugged in, start pulling fuses one at a time til the short goes away. If it don't go away with all the fuses out, then it is in the main harness under the dash. You will have to start by lifting the ammeter wires to figure out which side (Red or Black) has the short. You said you "installed a new dash". When you say "new dash," are you saying a complete new dash or new gauge panel? Are you sure your ammeter is not grounded out or something involve in the New parts? Patience and diligence are a requirement in figuring it out. One circuit at a time. That simple diagram I posted in 37 should help you track it down. Don't just hook up the battery to test it. If you don't have a digital Volt / Ohm meter, it is time to invest in one. You need to verify no short between your Pos and Neg battery terminals before you hook the battery up.

 

[Stumper]

The dash gage panel was replaced. the new one had a clock so I ran a wire to the fuse box fuse for it. I also installed a oil pressure switch for the idiot light that was not there before. Battery tested good, starter worked fine on the bench. Amp meter on both gage panels tested good. I do have a decent meter to work with.
All that said my gut tells me that the short has to be in the engine bay. Mainly because there is no damage under the dash. So now my lack of knowledge in electrical trouble shooting comes into play. How do I use the meter to check everything in the engine bay? Do I check each and every wire that goes to the bulkhead or just the starter / charging circuit?

 

[Sixpactogo]

The dash gage panel was replaced. the new one had a clock so I ran a wire to the fuse box fuse for it. I also installed a oil pressure switch for the idiot light that was not there before. Battery tested good, starter worked fine on the bench. Amp meter on both gage panels tested good. I do have a decent meter to work with.
All that said my gut tells me that the short has to be in the engine bay. Mainly because there is no damage under the dash. So now my lack of knowledge in electrical trouble shooting comes into play. How do I use the meter to check everything in the engine bay? Do I check each and every wire that goes to the bulkhead or just the starter / charging circuit?

Unplug the engine harness from the bulkhead. Check for short between Battery positive and a good ground. If the short shows up, unhook the Alternator wires and check again. If the short is gone, it is your alternator. Probably a diode. If not there, unhook the starter relay and check again. It could be a bare wire somewhere on the engine.

 

[Stumper]

Unplug the engine harness from the bulkhead. Check for short between Battery positive and a good ground. If the short shows up, unhook the Alternator wires and check again. If the short is gone, it is your alternator. Probably a diode. If not there, unhook the starter relay and check again. It could be a bare wire somewhere on the engine.

Clarification, I assume this is with every thing in engine bay connected except the battery? do I check for continuity between the pos battery cable (unhooked from battery) and a ground? Am I looking for continuity or OL?

 

[Sixpactogo]

Clarification, I assume this is with every thing in engine bay connected except the battery? do I check for continuity between the pos battery cable (unhooked from battery) and a ground? Am I looking for continuity or OL?

Yes. Everything connected under the hood except the bulkhead connector. You want to have your meter in OHMs and you want to see OL. If your meter goes to zero, your short is under the hood. If you see OL, your short is more than likely under the dash or at least beyond the engine compartment.

 

[Stumper]

Well this kind of sucks… I get OL from the pos battery cable to ground with everything disconnected from the bulkhead and everything else in the engine bay connected…
I do have a number of loose wires under the dash. Some that I was aware of and have been there while everything worked - results of previous wiring work I guess. A couple that I found that I had not seen before… I guess I’ll look for what they went to.

 

[Stumper]

***** So, there is a brown wire that comes from the ballast resistor to the small plug to the firewall. Inside it goes to the ignition…. Or is supposed to..
One of the loose wires I found hanging from up near the bulkhead was the brown wire from the ignition. Someone had spliced a green wire on to it with a female spade connector. I’m guessing the female end came out.
Could this be my smoking gun - especially if it grounded on the metal?..

 

[Sixpactogo]

Very well could be.

 

[Stumper]

I’m assuming the ballast resistor must be connected to the ignition to function properly? I’m pretty sure the line was pulled apart. What I don’t know is if it was pulled apart when the short occurred or after when i disconnected the bulkhead plug. Would it simply being unplugged cause the short or would it need to have touched metal?

 

[JPrusinows]

I’m assuming the ballast resistor must be connected to the ignition to function properly? I’m pretty sure the line was pulled apart. What I don’t know is if it was pulled apart when the short occurred or after when i disconnected the bulkhead plug. Would it simply being unplugged cause the short or would it need to have touched metal?

Did you disconnect the black wire on your alternator as suggested earlier? I just went through this same thing and it was Alternator Diodes that were shorted out. Took down the whole car. Just a thought.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I’m assuming the ballast resistor must be connected to the ignition to function properly? I’m pretty sure the line was pulled apart. What I don’t know is if it was pulled apart when the short occurred or after when i disconnected the bulkhead plug. Would it simply being unplugged cause the short or would it need to have touched metal?

That brown wire under the dash should plug into the connector that goes to the ballast resistor. The other end should be on the ignition switch. If the switch was on and the end going to the firewall plug was touching metal, it would have caused your problem.

 

[Stumper]

That brown wire under the dash should plug into the connector that goes to the ballast resistor. The other end should be on the ignition switch. If the switch was on and the end going to the firewall plug was touching metal, it would have caused your problem.

The ignition wasn’t on though……

 

[A4GTX]

I’m a bit confused, but then again always am with electrical. My set up has the Pos battery going to the starter and the smaller red line to the relay coming off the same post on the starter. I figured that wire to the relay has to be hot coming off the starter hot terminal?

The two burned wires are connected at the relay post. Is the point I’m missing that while the relay is open the two wires are not technically connected?

I guess ‘62 does have that wire. I was wrong. I would still be looking to the relay as the likely problem.

 

[69_A12_6BBL]

There is no "neg" on any ammeter. Both are Pos. Black from Alternator, Red from Battery. Any negative wire on an ammeter would be a dead short.

Yeah my bad. BLACK wire