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Help installing torsion bars 1970 GTX

zippy

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Hello, dig the help so far,,,any body? I removed the torsion bars for PST front end rebuild kit. Problem is I did not document the location of the markings on the back side or the rear end of the torsion bar. They have numbers and some letters with a centerline running through it. I never removed the bars completely just out of the control arms,so I know they are correct sides. My question is do these letters/ numbers and the centerline have a orientation. Should the line on the back be vertical? or diagonal? Letters up down? I believe these have a bend to them and I cannot seem to get them back in (I have the tool) ...just want to make sure that put them back in correctly...some photos show them vert and some on an angle...any a body please....thanks brothererns
 
I hope this helps. I had my torsion bars all the way out on my 72 Coronet. When I put them back in I tapped them into the lower control arms. Far enough to get the spring clip in the groove on the rear mount. then tapped it against the spring. Make sure the spring clip goes into the groove. I had to use a common screwdriver and a hammer and tap the clip into the groove. I turned the bolt on the lower control arm the same amount of turns needed to take tension off the torsion bars. Set ride hight Make sure you get alignment checked. I never marked mine before I took them out and didn't have any issues. Just marked the front an rear of the bars.
 
Just putem' back in.... I've never had an issue just L 2 L and r 2 r... done
 
Coronet has good advice, the bars can go in any way, just have your adjusters unscrewed all the way, and wiggle the lower A frame to fit the bar in. a little tight is normal, get the bar started, and tap the bar in from the rear. I grease both ends, to help them in. I use a 1/2 inch extension bar , and tap forward until the bar is all the way in the frame. And until the clip fits. Just be sure to turn both anchor bolts up the same number of times. . normally I count rotations to stay even, 34-36 full turns will take the height up enough to get to the alignment shop. One tip, don't tighten up the nut on the front of the lower A frame until you adjust your height. An old alignment guy trick, it minimizes the tension on the bushing until you need it.
 
Coronet has good advice, the bars can go in any way, just have your adjusters unscrewed all the way, and wiggle the lower A frame to fit the bar in. a little tight is normal, get the bar started, and tap the bar in from the rear. I grease both ends, to help them in. I use a 1/2 inch extension bar , and tap forward until the bar is all the way in the frame. And until the clip fits. Just be sure to turn both anchor bolts up the same number of times. . normally I count rotations to stay even, 34-36 full turns will take the height up enough to get to the alignment shop. One tip, don't tighten up the nut on the front of the lower A frame until you adjust your height. An old alignment guy trick, it minimizes the tension on the bushing until you need it.
I tightened that lower nut on the front of the lower A frame before I adjusted ride height. To minimize the tension on the bushing, what should I do?............................MO
 
Sorry fella's...No offense, but i'll have to disagree with you..It does matter. The bar with the numbers that end with an Odd number is the left side, even on the right. Numbers stamped side ran into the LCA's, front/back, but it doesn't matter which way they're installed front to back. The bars have a separate direction of pre-torsion twist, that's why there is a left and a right (two different P/N#'s). Last set of firm feels I installed had a clear "L" and "R" stamped on them (for left and right). Last set of PST's had nothing, but those were the 1.003" bars with the bad clocking. Myself, I would install them just as the factory would have, being they were labeled for left and right for a reason, the pre-load/twist. A lot of bigger aftermarket bars (1" +) will have no specific side to side.

Good article to read

http://arengineering.com/tech/torsion-bar-tango/

Mopar torsion bars are preset at the factory in the direction of use. You can observe this preset by laying the bars down on a flat surface and observing how the bar is twisted. The driver’s side bars will have a 30 degree right hand twist. A passenger side bar will have a 30 degree left handed twist. Pre-setting the bars in this manner improves the load carrying capacity in the pre-set direction. But, the load carrying capacity is reduced in the other direction of twist. This is why it is so important to get the bars installed on the correct side of the car. This twist is put into the bar during fabrication and is done to strengthen the bar. If the bars are put on the wrong side, they will be loaded against the pre-set and will not be able to carry their rated load.
 
I agree with that, but I thought he said he didn't remove them completely, so I assumed they were already in correct. If he needs the numbers that apply for which side just let me know, as they are in the factory parts book.Even and odd, I always have to look it up. Regarding the nut, just loosen it back up, allowing the stud to rotate as you adjust up. I usually leave it loose a bit until the alignment guy is done., then have him tighten it up.
 
so we know left and right is important, but what about back to front? is there a right and wrong way
 
did you take them out? a hint of which way they came out is look at all the grease, as you pull them out the back of the crossmember you can't avoid loading up grease on the other end. that was the front. Also, the shiniest end was likely in the front,as it was protected. if memory serves me correctly, the part numbers are in the back. .you will see a "778"(right) and "779" (left),stamped on the back. or if GTX then 780 and 781. Odd left ,even right, and this number is to be on the anchor end,(rear) taken direct from the good ole mopar parts book.
 
so we know left and right is important, but what about back to front? is there a right and wrong way

No...Either way you install them front/back, they end up with the same directional twist. Some guys leave the applicable numbers to the back so the bars can be identified if need be down the road (without being removed).
 
I tightened that lower nut on the front of the lower A frame before I adjusted ride height. To minimize the tension on the bushing, what should I do?............................MO
I Do it that way as I was taught that way, but I have forgotten to do it sometimes myself. If I did I just loosened the nut up, and if there is tension, the stud will find where it want to be. that's all you can do. Not a deal breaker, just a little thing passed on from a guy who passed away in 1995 at 85 years. Best engine/trans/ suspension guy around. Amazing to watch him rebuild a transmission with only two fingers on each hand, as he had been wounded while working on A Sherman tank during the battle of the Bulge.
 
Did not remove them as sides go...i finally got them in by tightening up the front of the strut nut to pull it forward as they were back from new rubber bushings....thanks all...great advice
 
did you take them out? a hint of which way they came out is look at all the grease, as you pull them out the back of the crossmember you can't avoid loading up grease on the other end. that was the front. Also, the shiniest end was likely in the front,as it was protected. if memory serves me correctly, the part numbers are in the back. .you will see a "778"(right) and "779" (left),stamped on the back. or if GTX then 780 and 781. Odd left ,even right, and this number is to be on the anchor end,(rear) taken direct from the good ole mopar parts book.
New bars, they have numbers at both ends.

- - - Updated - - -

No...Either way you install them front/back, they end up with the same directional twist. Some guys leave the applicable numbers to the back so the bars can be identified if need be down the road (without being removed).
that's what i thought. Thanks.
 
Sorry fella's...No offense, but i'll have to disagree with you..It does matter. The bar with the numbers that end with an Odd number is the left side, even on the right. Numbers stamped side ran into the LCA's, front/back, but it doesn't matter which way they're installed front to back. The bars have a separate direction of pre-torsion twist, that's why there is a left and a right (two different P/N#'s). Last set of firm feels I installed had a clear "L" and "R" stamped on them (for left and right). Last set of PST's had nothing, but those were the 1.003" bars with the bad clocking. Myself, I would install them just as the factory would have, being they were labeled for left and right for a reason, the pre-load/twist. A lot of bigger aftermarket bars (1" +) will have no specific side to side.

Good article to read

http://arengineering.com/tech/torsion-bar-tango/
that being said, do I understand the aftermarket are not marked Left Right? I nought a set of aftermarket, and now I will not install as they are not marked PST, and PST will not make right
 
that being said, do I understand the aftermarket are not marked Left Right? I nought a set of aftermarket, and now I will not install as they are not marked PST, and PST will not make right
PST torsion bars work just fine.
 
that being said, do I understand the aftermarket are not marked Left Right? I nought a set of aftermarket, and now I will not install as they are not marked PST, and PST will not make right


I will gladly look into your issue. Please PM your information. I will need your full name, address to where the product was shipped and approximate time of purchase. All the bars that we sell are marked (forge stamping) with an L or an R on the end and our part number regardless of zero clocking (our old version pre 2015) or newer version with 20 degree clocking.

We are here to help but you will need to provide some info.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
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