Help with header install? Shift linkage question.

[///Matt]

sooo I need some help... I installed summit long-tube headers on my 71 charger, 318. I made another thread already complaining about the vagueness of instructions, but here's a second complaint that I'm looking for some insight on.

The instructions indicate "Auto transmissions 'may' have to modify the shift linkage, flip it 180*, look at the pictures." The pictures are 2nd grader drawings, 2 of them, with 'flip 180*, bend rod, cut out section, grind flat spot 3-4 inches up' marked on it, and are absolutely unhelpful.

Am I actually supposed to cut a piece of the linkage, or are they indicating that is an existing 'cutout', like a missing piece of image, or a diverting point already on the linkage? if I'm supposed to cut it, some measurements sure wouldn't go un-appreciated.

Same for the 'grind flat spot 3-4" up'. Up from where? on what? to where?

I flipped the linkage, but it does not seem to be able to bolt back to the mounting holes. I'm quite annoyed.

Can anyone who has done this particular modification chime in with some specifics or advice for me? Or if you have a better mod that works, that'd be great too. I just want to get the damn thing installed. It's basically the last hiccup I need to clear before I can actually run this car, after having just rebuilt the whole motor and transmission.

Thanks

 

[440beep]

See these diaghrams from TTI, but these are for big block headers, but might help you. TTI has great footnote diaghrams, so maybe check their 318 header install instructions.

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/PDF/FN36-SHT101-Bellcrank.pdf

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/PDF/FN23-SHT3703-TorqueShaftLever.pdf

 

[themechanic]

What he said.

 

[DWilbur]

Hello Matt
I will be doing the same thing you are this week end. I installed headers in my 1973 SSP and it has a 318 with A904 auto trans. the header tub is interfering with the linkage. I thinking I will have to cut the rod in half bend the ends up and weld in a new piece of rod to clear the header.

 

[DWilbur]

I finished installing my exhaust system Saturday and scrapped trying to hook up the column shifter. I installed a aftermarket floor shifter from Hurst it took about 2 hours to install the linkage and shifter on the floor. Still have to connect up the wiring for the light and revers lights. much easer then trying to cut, bend and modify the factory linkage in my opinion.

 

[themechanic]

Sorry, I didn't know you were talking about column shift. Glad you got it solved.

A little late now but I just noticed that all this time this link was sitting at the bottom of this page: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?8792-Header-Install-with-Column-Shift

 

[///Matt]

So yeah, my car is column shift too... and after much shenanigans with the shift linkage, I have determined that it will NOT be anything like simple to get it to work. My options became: by the TTI linkage (which may or may not fit correctly around my NON-TTI header) or switch to floor-shift. I have decided to go with floor shift, and purchased the appropriate B&M parts.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Yup,
As 440beep says!

///Matt:
Where in CA?
South I can help you...

 

[440beep]

I have the TTI 2" into 3.5" collector headers and a column shifter. I had no trouble cutting and narrowing the bellcrank with my Dremel tool as the TTI instructions state and found somebody to weld it back together for me. Added some washers on the bellcrank shaft to get rid of the slop, and my column shifter works fine. John Cope went a step farther and put better bushings in place to get rid of the slop when he did my tranny and GV install. :hello2: