Holley 3310? ID Help needed

[Tias63]

Hola!
I think I have a 3310. The Choke horns were milled off so I don't have the exact ID #'s. On the main body, passenger side I have 6R2762
Front Metering block #5271
Rear Metering block #4519
I think I have a possible Vacuum leak somewhere, so if a rebuild kit is needed I want to make sure I get the right kit, for the right Carb.
Thanks Ya'll

 

[33 IMP]

If it's got a vacuum secondary, and two metering blocks, it's a 3310-1. All later 3310s had a metering plate on the secondary.
With two metering blocks, you will need a 4150 rebuild kit, and it probably won't have the vacuum diaphragm in it.
I have been pleased with the generic Jegs brand 4150 kits that I have bought (three of them).

 

[66Satellite47]

Don't recall what the metering block numbers were. The 3310-1 was a really great carb. With the two screw in jet metering blocks, very adjustable. The vacuum pod was easily adjustable with the available package of different springs. Small adjustments in the main jets, shooter size and vacuum springs made for great tuning.

 

[RJRENTON]

Hola!
I think I have a 3310. The Choke horns were milled off so I don't have the exact ID #'s. On the main body, passenger side I have 6R2762
Front Metering block #5271
Rear Metering block #4519
I think I have a possible Vacuum leak somewhere, so if a rebuild kit is needed I want to make sure I get the right kit, for the right Carb.
Thanks Ya'll

View attachment 1204846 View attachment 1204847 View attachment 1204848

IMO....LOOKING at your pix, the view of the secondary booster venturi, shows they are not the down leg style. Therefore, I think you have a 3310-2 or later. To reiterate, the 3310 and 3310-1 are Model 4150 design with secondary metering blocks. Subsequent revisions (-2,-3, etc.) are Model 4160 designs with secondary metering plates.
FYI....presently on eBay, there is an origional R-3310 Model 4150 from a Chevrolet 375 hp/396. Perhaps you can review the auction to possibly pick up the main body and throttle body to resurrect your 3310-2....just a thought.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Tias63]

IMO....LOOKING at your pix, the view of the secondary booster venturi, shows they are not the down leg style. Therefore, I think you have a 3310-2 or later. To reiterate, the 3310 and 3310-1 are Model 4150 design with secondary metering blocks. Subsequent revisions (-2,-3, etc.) are Model 4160 designs with secondary metering plates.
FYI....presently on eBay, there is an origional R-3310 Model 4150 from a Chevrolet 375 hp/396. Perhaps you can review the auction to possibly pick up the main body and throttle body to resurrect your 3310-2....just a thought.....
BOB RENTON

You are correct, not the down leg style, but generally the 3310-2 does not have the secondary metering block, or some do? or was this a Modification? Is it possible that some where along the line the main body got swapped out? Or does the main body and throttle body need to be of the same type? All of this digging into what I actually have is due to a possible Vacuum leak. Just want to make sure that is needed, I get the right rebuild kit for what I have. Thanks for the great info.

 

[33 IMP]

You are correct, not the down leg style, but generally the 3310-2 does not have the secondary metering block, or some do? or was this a Modification? Is it possible that some where along the line the main body got swapped out? Or does the main body and throttle body need to be of the same type? All of this digging into what I actually have is due to a possible Vacuum leak. Just want to make sure that is needed, I get the right rebuild kit for what I have. Thanks for the great info.

Holley sells a kit to change the metering plate to a metering block. That may have happened to yours, considering the choke horn removal means it has been played with. 3310 and 3310-1 had two blocks. All subsequent versions had plates (up to something like -10 or -12 by now. ). If it's a -1, it's at least 40 years old. Does it have screws with slots, or hex heads, holding the bowls on? Originals had slots, conversions will have hex heads.

 

[33 IMP]

The internal vacuum leak is likely from over-tightened bowl screws, warping the main body. Quite common. Rather than spend money to have the main body milled, I tape a sheet of sandpaper to a piece of glass, and slide the main body over it till flat again. You can do the same to the metering blocks, but GENTLY.

Edit: the plate glass works, but I had access to a 9000lb surface plate, so I used that.