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Hoping for some help from someone who's an expert on 72 Roadrunner/GTX's?

Cut the BS you eather have it or not. I only stated what I have seen have no proof other than that. You have stated the same and apear to have no proof eather. This does no one any good. If you can really prove your point post it. We all need to know.
BS? The OP in this thread asked specific questions about a ’72 “U” coded b-body, you have posted numerous generalized and inaccurate statements about ’72 production specifically. The torque box debate will likely not end here. Discount all the ’72 cars I’ve seen in person since 1972, I can post pics all day long of ’72 U-coded cars with them, autos & manuals, clear to me they were intended to be included with E86 in ’72, as with the previous model year. Any omissions would be a production mistake of some kind. Love to see pics of a documented ’72 U-code without them, Anyone?
 
My statement refured to both auto and manual trans cars. Really wish someone would post factory info on this a solve the puzzle. I am tired of the so called experts that came not provide written proof. That just leaves us to the seen tehology which helps no one.
I just posted what I've seen. I've owned over 40 71-2 B's but I've never claimed to be an expert.
My 72 440/auto Ralley Charger had rear boxes but no front ones.
 
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Lots of super great information here. I'm really grateful to all of you for sharing your valuable information. I'm wondering if there is a place or a resource to get the information that seems to be missing on the production of these cars..i.e. torque box question, production details beyond auto vs manual (i.e. how many were produced with full vinyl, how many with air grabber option, etc)..is there a book or something? Regarding the value question - this guy might be a little high...on the other hand, I've been looking for this exact car for a couple of years now, so....definitely something to consider. There are only 219 of these in existence...maybe too hopeful to think I can find a numbers matching car...

Last - I don't have any great mopar information to share...I'm a horse expert, so I'm happy to solve any horse problems anyone may have. :)
 
I'm wondering if there is a place or a resource to get the information that seems to be missing on the production of these cars..i.e. torque box question...

If this point was posible, the discussion about this on the thread wouldn't have existed LOL
 
Does anyone know if the Windsor plant put the decal codes on the fender tag? My 72 has the over the roof strobe stripe but not coded on tag.
 
I find this article interesting.
FWIW, If I read this right, it indicates to me the 440 4bbl had to be ordered over the 400 and it becomes a RR/GTX. My '72 440 4bbl auto slapstick RR had absolutely nothing on it proclaiming it to be a GTX though. It did have the Air Grabber hood (I still have the air cleaner) along with factory hood pins. The wide beam rods were in the engine as well. The picture below I found, was developed in Nov. '78, throwing on a '70 six pack that I'd acquired.

upload_2017-8-28_16-59-51.png


Scanned at 9-21-2015 9-27 AM (2).jpg
 
Not a third party article, it’s an official Chrysler document announcing changes to the Satellite model line for 1972 model year. Would have been issued to dealers for sales training prior to the shipment of the ’72 models. GTX badging beginning in ’72 were stick-on, easily removed or omitted after paint/body repairs. The three badges were the only labeling on any kind regarding model name. Did you buy the car new without badges?
 
I had everything for the 72 model year but a dealer order form at one time.
Had it all stashed in my storage closet at home. Mom with her infunate wisdom when packing my stuff decided what was junk and what was to be saved. The year 1974.
I had always wanted one it took till 1979 to find one I could afford. 4 kids in 5 years and 1 on the way has a way of doing that to a pocket book.
 
My 72 RR GTX build sheet. Gives an idea of available option. I only have a few and prefer it that way.
 
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..........Did you buy the car new without badges?
It was a four year old when I traded my '68 RR in on. The car was a certified one owner prior to me. Stone Stock RR.
Here are the emblems that were on the sides. As you can see not "stick on" BTW (still have them)..............
72RREmbs1.gif

72RREmbs2.gif


and the original air cleaner..........
72RR440AirGrab1.jpg
 
I didn't say anything about the Road Runner badging. Again, in model year 1972, the "GTX" badges were stick-on. The "Road Runner" badging was pinned, on later model year Road Runners, the "Road Runner" badges were also stick-on. In my own dealer experience, I was asked to remove "stick-on" badging from several cars, new and used, for various reasons, not uncommon.

If the car you had was a “U” code (440HP 4V) from the factory, it was a Road Runner GTX. It “should” have had three “GTX” badges when it left the factory. While official documentation to that effect has yet to be found, i.e. engineering diagrams showing exact locations, that leaves us only with examples or photos of original examples. The closest we get is in the parts manual, showing the deck lid GTX badge application in the general (wrong) location relating to the circle bird decal. Auto manufactures don’t go to ANY expense adding anything to a production car without a reason or a plan. Yes, there have been production mistakes, normally these mistakes are more omissions than they are additions.
 
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Circling back on the hood pins question; Is there a way for me to tell if the hood is not the original one that came with the car? Assuming the engine tag matches body stampings, the car is an N96 car, so I would just want to know if the hood pins were originally there or if the hood was replaced at one time or another...?
 
Circling back on the hood pins question; Is there a way for me to tell if the hood is not the original one that came with the car? Assuming the engine tag matches body stampings, the car is an N96 car, so I would just want to know if the hood pins were originally there or if the hood was replaced at one time or another...?
Some hood pin provisions are part of all original sheet metal parts. On the hood, the inner structure will have slightly oval holes where the pins would pass through the hood. Should be able to look up from under the hood, through the inner structure holes and see the underside of the outer hood skin. If holes were there, then filled or patched, should see the telltale signs.

As for the pins, If the car has the original fenders and inside support structure has not been re-painted you should see paint damage around the mounting holes in the fender support. A star-type lock washer was commonly used on the pin nuts, digs into the paint and metal fairly well.

DSC00447 (1280x857).jpg DSC00455 (1280x857).jpg
 
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I didn't say anything about the Road Runner badging. Again, in model year 1972, the "GTX" badges were stick-on. The "Road Runner" badging was pinned, on later model year Road Runners, the "Road Runner" badges were also stick-on. In my own dealer experience, I was asked to remove "stick-on" badging from several cars, new and used, for various reasons, not uncommon.

If the car you had was a “U” code (440HP 4V) from the factory, it was a Road Runner GTX. It “should” have had three “GTX” badges when it left the factory. While official documentation to that effect has yet to be found, i.e. engineering diagrams showing exact locations, that leaves us only with examples or photos of original examples. The closest we get is in the parts manual, showing the deck lid GTX badge application in the general (wrong) location relating to the circle bird decal. Auto manufactures don’t go to ANY expense adding anything to a production car without a reason or a plan. Yes, there have been production mistakes, normally these mistakes are more omissions than they are additions.


My 1972 Road Runner GTX (440 4bbl) had the GTX emblem on the trunk on the "wrong side", i.e. it was on the driver's side as opposed to the "right side" of the passenger side, where the round bird decal is. Why? Have no idea. But since I bought the car brand new at Katy Road Chrysler Plymouth, Katy, TX and am the only owner, I know for sure where it was. When I restored the car in 2003 - 2006 I put it back where it was on the original car, regardless of where it was "supposed to be".

My take, a "perfect" car was NEVER made. I found no less that 3 build sheets, the one for my car, and one that was under the passenger front seat, and one in the rear seat back. (correct one was in the rear seat cushion).

1972 Road Runner 104.jpg
 
Wow, $68.90 for the air grabber!
Lots of great information in here. Not sure its worth that $$ without the original motor, but it is still a rare car indeed. I bet not more than 100 of them are still left.
My 2 cents... if you have been looking that long, and it is your dream car, once finished with your research and youre satisfied it is a true GTX, pay whatever you need to get it. Not saying just pay the asking. Make an offer and negotiate, but make it yours.
Good luck
 
Your point is well taken. Once upon there was a green RR/GTX that I had my eye one but I didn't buy it because we were throwing money into another car at the time. This car wasn't a numbers matching car either and it sold at Mecum in 2011 for $42k...recently saw a numbers matching car go for $55k, so...? I'm going to look at the car I'm considering next week. Originally my husband was supposed to come with me and help check out the car (he's familiar with a wrench and a gearhead) but now he can't come with, so I'm on my own. I've gotten some really good information from people here on where to find the body stampings, where to find the block stampings so I can see if it's at least a correct date coded 440, how to tell if the hood has been replaced, etc etc. I have about 5 pages of notes, so I'm well armed. I wish I had someone a little more mechanic-y to drive it for me though...this is conceptually the car I want but I also don't want to waste my money on a car that might be a big money pit in the future. It's a gamble...
 
Its always a gamble but at least your armed with info and know when to simply walk away. If something look suspicious it probably is.
 
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