Hotchkis fast ratio pitman and idler arm for 66 Satellite

[AR67GTX]

Anyone know if the Hotchkis kit really works on 66/67 B-Body? The idler looks like the 68 style with a through bolt instead of a stud. Maybe the two types will interchange on the K-frame???? They seem pretty insistent it will fit 66/67.

About 20+ years ago PST had a fast ratio pitman arm for my 67 GTX. They advertised using it with the stock idler. So I bought one and it’s worked to my satisfaction all these years. I figured that with differing length idler and pitman arms there had to be some compromise but in everyday driving it’s worked fine. Apparently they don’t promote this anymore and don’t seem to list anything for fast ratio arms for the 66/67 B-Body that I can find.

Hotchkis 70-74 Dodge Challenger Quick Ratio Idler and Pitman Arm Kit

Hotchkis Sport Suspension 3004 Quick 12:1 Ratio Pitman / Idler Steering Arm for 66-76 Mopar A B or E Body cars. Fits 1970-74 E-Body cars and 1966-76 B-Body cars and only 1966-1976 A-Body cars using A-Body 73-76 Center link and spindles. Bolt-in fast ratio steering for ultimate handling that...

shop.kanzenmotorsports.com

 

[Kern Dog]

I am not familiar with the 66-67 K member setup but I do recall at some point around then, they still had the stud mounted idler arms. 1967 was the last year of it for A bodies, I know that much.
I'd think that a decent fabricator could make their own double shear mount and weld it in place but you'd surely want to do it on a car lift to make welding easier. I almost relish the idea since I like the thought of fabricating stuff.
The Fast Ratio stuff is about 1" longer, you can see the difference in the picture below. The far right Pitman is a Fast Ratio unit.

Knowing this.....you can then look at the clearance you have right now where the center link moves, the idler and Pitman too. If you are more than 1 inch from the exhaust, you should clear just fine.
I've found that the change to these loner arms changes the toe setting about 3/16" OUT. I was 1/8" IN before and just shy of 1/8" out afterwards. You can rotate the tie rod sleeves yourself to correct it. One turn on each should give you about 3/16" Be sure to check and confirm this before locking down the sleeves and driving very far.

 

[AR67GTX]

It was the same for B-Bodies, went to a nut and bolt in 68. In theory a threaded stud on top of the idler, or a bolt and nut through the whole assembly seems pretty interchangeable. But, maybe the stud has a slight taper or something. I would have to disassemble it to find out. Hopefully someone knows.

Good point about checking exhaust clearance. Oil pan looked OK. I think the exhaust is OK too but will verify.

Thanks

 

[Kern Dog]

Oil pan clearance usually improves since the longer steering gear moves the center link further back away from the mid sump in the pan.

 

[AR67GTX]

I think I found my answer with a picture of an A-Body K member from 68/showing the double plate idler arm mount. Not going to work.

 

[ckessel]

I just recently put a 70 unit in my 67 wagon The -67 uses the bayonet bolt, 68- is double shear mount on the idler. One of the reasons I chose to use the 70 unit. The other was so I could run the sway bar through the frame as opposed to in front of it. The swap is easy. Did the same thing for my 65, but there were some mods I did on the firewall and trans tunnel since the 70 unit moved the engine back 1.5".

 

[Kern Dog]

Yeah, it would be easier to swap in a 1970-72 B or 70-74 E body K member. The steering box angle is unique for a 1970 as it matches the 66-69 angle.