67Charger
Well-Known Member
I just installed the CPP disc brake kit for my '71 Challenger that I picked up using one of eBay's 20% off coupons... $320 delivered and it came form Summit. Yes, I know this is an E-body, but this is the most active forum for this topic.
My question is about my master cylinder. I replaced it 5 years ago with a 2 bolt conversion plate and later model aluminum master when I got the car, but I don't remember if it is a disc/drum or drum/drum. It has the plastic reservoir mounted above the MC, and the front and rear half are connected internally. The forward fitting is the 9/16 thread, and the rear fitting is 1/2". I still have the drum/drum prop valve block in the system. Car seems to stop fine, definitely better than the front manual drums that were both into the rivets, but I am not sure about the master. How can I tell the difference, or does it matter?
I think I am going to just do an inline manual prop valve. Can I just leave the factory drum prop valve in place and put the new valve into the rear line?
My question is about my master cylinder. I replaced it 5 years ago with a 2 bolt conversion plate and later model aluminum master when I got the car, but I don't remember if it is a disc/drum or drum/drum. It has the plastic reservoir mounted above the MC, and the front and rear half are connected internally. The forward fitting is the 9/16 thread, and the rear fitting is 1/2". I still have the drum/drum prop valve block in the system. Car seems to stop fine, definitely better than the front manual drums that were both into the rivets, but I am not sure about the master. How can I tell the difference, or does it matter?
I think I am going to just do an inline manual prop valve. Can I just leave the factory drum prop valve in place and put the new valve into the rear line?
