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If the valves or seats are shot we would typically just upgrade to 2.14s and grind them into the old 2.08 seat. On something that doesn't see alot of miles we would do the same to the exhaust. Knurl the guides if they can be done within specs. Those are the most basic things a guy can do to keep things affordable. If the stock valves and seats are decent and you don't have valve and seat grinding equipment you would be surprised how much you can do with emery paper and a drill.
If you plan to do lots of driving hardened exhaust seats is always a good idea. Bronze guides are also nice, but when you start spending money as well as porting..the aluminum heads often become a better way to go.
Also consider not all Aluminum heads are made in China...DC/Mopar Performance, Edelbrock, Indy, Predator, Koffels B-1, and trick flow heads are not knock offs. They all were/are made in the U.S.A.
I know a lot of those are pricey and race odiented but the Edelbrock E-streets and RPM heads aren't much more then the oversea's cast bb heads.
But the only al heads that appear stock are made in China, and I still have to put money into them to get them right ootb. Could definitely refresh the heads on the cheap, but Im thinking 5/16 stems 2.14+ intake valve, hardend exhaust seats, behive springs. The goal being I want a lightweight vavletrain so I can run a reasonable spring pressure on a flat tappet cam.