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I are a 727 expert----

oldbee

oldbee

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After seeing numerous threads I decided to try something. I also have an 8"x 8" x 1-1/2" external cooler behind grille(probably holds 1pt. at most)

4days sitting- about 3" overfill on stick(not running).

Neutral start- <20secs @Fast idle to get close to regular markings. Didn't worry about 'hot' full marking because I knew it was already correct.
After thoroughly warmed up, checked again after 10min shutdown- 1" overfull(probably about normal when not running)
1hr. after shutdown- 2" overfill.
Boy it sure doesn't take long for drainback, this was a self rebuild yrs ago when I sold the race Hemi trans that I set up & freshened once while racing.
Now the real question is it always sealing rings on reaction shaft, t.c. control valve leakage,regulator valve leakage,frt clutch bushing wear? Just trying to get a consensus, just never remember this hesitation to go into gear(either direction) years ago. My original trans probably had 40K+ before I tore it down to upgrade. Maybe we'll find a better answer than the FABO guys can come up/or anyone else. Jeff
 
If you come up with a definitive answer to drain back I'm not sure I want to know it now. Drain back reduction was one of the two major goals (well maybe 3) when I set out to rebuild my A727 last winter. Everything works great - no leaks, better gear changes, higher stall speed, no planetary whine - except it still drains back. I even installed a new torque converter in part to eliminate it as a possibility and a valve body kit (TF-1).
 
Sheet, my '03 2500 Hemi does it. So I guess it's par for the course. I have to start it in neutral if I let it sit for a couple of weeks or it will overflow the dipstick tube having it in park.

When's the last time the filter was changed? Every time I had a torqueflite act up, warming up, shifting delays, ect. the filter change cured it. Can't do that with a Chevy.

Did you see my thread? Got her back together!
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/trans-no-workie.137866/
 
khryslerkid said:
Sheet, my '03 2500 Hemi does it. So I guess it's par for the course. I have to start it in neutral if I let it sit for a couple of weeks or it will overflow the dipstick tube having it in park.

When's the last time the filter was changed? Every time I had a torqueflite act up, warming up, shifting delays, ect. the filter change cured it. Can't do that with a Chevy.

Did you see my thread? Got her back together!
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/trans-no-workie.137866/
Click to expand...
How could I miss it??? Mine will also delay in gear if parked nose up an incline for 1/2 hr or so. This crap never happened 40 yrs ago & this trans has way easier miles on it than the original.
 
oldbee said:
How could I miss it??? Mine will also delay in gear if parked nose up an incline for 1/2 hr or so. This crap never happened 40 yrs ago & this trans has way easier miles on it than the original.
Click to expand...

Might just be a bit of clutch goop accumulated in there?
 
Respectfully bullcrap, never an instantaneous reverse coming out of garage. Last year it's been neutral start & wait a beat or so & then voila instant reverse. 1st always right there except for serious incline.
 
I went a long time between Mopars from my first one back in 1968 until I bought this GTX. The 64 Sport Fury I had in the 60s never exhibited this issue either. I think it must be sealing rings somewhere. I replaced all of mine but the bore in some component is probably worn a bit to the point they don't seal as tight as they originally did. Or possibly a shuttle valve in the valve body doesn't have as close of fit tolerances as when new due to wear - don't know.

I don't remember DVW expressing a definite cause of drain back in his posts in my re-build thread so I suspect there may be multiple theories or potential areas of wear that can result in drain back.
 
oldbee said:
After seeing numerous threads I decided to try something. I also have an 8"x 8" x 1-1/2" external cooler behind grille(probably holds 1pt. at most)

4days sitting- about 3" overfill on stick(not running).

Neutral start- <20secs @Fast idle to get close to regular markings. Didn't worry about 'hot' full marking because I knew it was already correct.
After thoroughly warmed up, checked again after 10min shutdown- 1" overfull(probably about normal when not running)
1hr. after shutdown- 2" overfill.
Boy it sure doesn't take long for drainback, this was a self rebuild yrs ago when I sold the race Hemi trans that I set up & freshened once while racing.
Now the real question is it always sealing rings on reaction shaft, t.c. control valve leakage,regulator valve leakage,frt clutch bushing wear? Just trying to get a consensus, just never remember this hesitation to go into gear(either direction) years ago. My original trans probably had 40K+ before I tore it down to upgrade. Maybe we'll find a better answer than the FABO guys can come up/or anyone else. Jeff
Click to expand...


Have tried all the so called fixes...ran out of patience...am installing a four speed as we speak...will be more fun to drive anyway...
 
On the drain back, install the cooler so the in/out fittings are at the top.
Not sure on the hesitation going into gear? Is that at first start-up or any time?
 
451Mopar said:
On the drain back, install the cooler so the in/out fittings are at the top.
Not sure on the hesitation going into gear? Is that at first start-up or any time?
Click to expand...
1st startup after sitting a day or so, I'm always nosed in garage, but I have tried forward first & it's quick; probably because less line press compared to reverse.
 
Guys, here's some interesting reading on the topic. May not be the exact fix for your car, but worth checking out.

http://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/188-the-cure-for-the-common-chrysler-rwd-cold

BTW, I had some transmission problems with my 2001 Ram (46RE) two years ago. I replaced the OEM parts with the Sonnex Pressure Regulator Valve and the Manual Valve combination. No more drainback and hesitation on a cold start when put into Reverse to back out of the garage.
 
Mopars & Missiles said:
Guys, here's some interesting reading on the topic. May not be the exact fix for your car, but worth checking out.

http://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/188-the-cure-for-the-common-chrysler-rwd-cold

BTW, I had some transmission problems with my 2001 Ram (46RE) two years ago. I replaced the OEM parts with the Sonnex Pressure Regulator Valve and the Manual Valve combination. No more drainback and hesitation on a cold start when put into Reverse to back out of the garage.
Click to expand...

I don't think the newer style sonnex regulator valve with check ball is compatable with the older valve bodies?
If ran in neutral for a few seconds it may help. The pump in park modification of drilling the valve body used to be recommended, but I think the new TF-2 shift kits now don't want the hole drilled. Been about 7 years since I last did one of those shift kits.
 
451Mopar said:
I don't think the newer style sonnex regulator valve with check ball is compatable with the older valve bodies?
If ran in neutral for a few seconds it may help. The pump in park modification of drilling the valve body used to be recommended, but I think the new TF-2 shift kits now don't want the hole drilled. Been about 7 years since I last did one of those shift kits.
Click to expand...

Yep, they are. Here's the valve for a '62-'77 A-727 transmission. This valve eliminates the need to put the transmission into "Neutral" to fill the torque converter when you first start up the car. Torque converter will now get fluid pressure even in "Park".

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1842-lube-regulated-pressure-regulator-valve
 
Last edited:
oldbee said:
So from limited reading, you could check fluid level running in 'park' also, I guess.
Click to expand...
I have been running around in Mopars all my driving life, 50+ years, and always checked fluid level in park. To each their own.
The draining bit...not once...on any of the handful of Mopars I've had. Not saying it can't happen, pretty clear it is, seems a matter of changes and parts used, can make a hole, allow that drain-back.
Don't know what to tell ya.
All most funny, it was a slipping 727, that made up my mind to be a mechanic! The trans guy was good enough, to show the dumb a$$ kid the problem, and the cure. And, 3 seconds of thinking, the kid figured...hell, I could have done that!
 
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