I bought a Sling Shot dragster today

[Budnicks]

Not being a prick, just for info
you may already know too

BUT
that fuel tank ain't big enough

View attachment 1287539 View attachment 1287539 View attachment 1287539

*do you have a NHRA Comp License ?
or what ever insuring & sanctioning body you have where you live
it will be required, no matter who it is...

*The proper cage & pipe thickness, updated & legal,
it's not 1969 anymore, that is a mandatory deal
no 'thin tube ****' like they did back in the good ol days,
(or rusted inside/degraded, from sitting for decades on end even in a garage)
chromoly hopefully, & hope it's thick enough
(should really check the tubing & cage requirements, before you even build
the car, even at a nostalgia race, it will need to pass 2022 safety tech. stds)
*driveshaft protection, you will be laying over the rear end,
straddling the driveshaft, it needs to have a "bulletproof containment"
*with hardened & a spined shaft (10 spline IIRC),
*splined/aligned hubs male & female for both the trans end & pinion
& with locking collars on the shaft, to hold them in place
*trans shield &/or probably engine & trans diaper
depending on what fuel in the tank,
but a FE & sitting behind in an open cockpit has far more requirements
*the blower needs to be contained (if you actually will run one, not just posing)
& restrained, with up to date 2022 safety stuff
not some old nostalgic 1969 stuff
that won't or shouldn't pass any good/real tech
*a full fire-Suit, probably 3-5 layers,
again type of fuel & trans will dictate some of the safety/fire requirements
*fire suppression system, usually a min. of 1 bottle halon,
for cockpit at a min., (you want it, believe me)
some will be a man. 2 bottles one for both sides of the engine
& one for in the cockpit
*it is all "usually" required
'when the transmission & bell-housing is in the cockpit' exposed
*Wear a sock or one built/sewn in the helmet,
*up to date SFI fire-resistant boots & gloves,
*SFI arm restraints,
*SFI proper dated/legal 5-6 point harness,
*SFI with a submarine belt
usually 3"
with **SFI fire-resistant shoulder straps/coverings
**a parachute if it's at all fast, 149+mph it's required/mandated
**rear brakes 'usually' on a levered hand brake
**& fuel shutoff 'usually' on the brake lever
&/or
*engine/mag./ignition kill switch, on the wheel
or within reach being strapped in
*chute lever/s easily accessible while strapped in blind, on the cage
*a SFI trans. reverse lockout/shifter, easily reached when strapped down

unless it's slow like less than 10.0 & not blown
even then
the saftey stuff is different/far more of it than a reg. door slammer,
or a street/strip deal or a 11-12 second car
even then you will be required to do the orientation drills
be able to stop 'simulation', unbuckle & get out 'blindfolded'
in less than 10 seconds
a FE & engine exposed, sitting in an open cockpit, is no joke
better know what you're doing, very quickly
you may not get a 2nd chance

1st thing is
after you check the chassis tubing & cage req.s;
*you will need to apply
& get the proper paperwork, can get off the -www- or
at the track "usually"
*You will need to do an FAA style full physical,
& be cleared & healthy 1st
& bring it/paperwork signed (by the dr.)
to the licensing rounds/track day
(best to do it on a T&T day, not a race-day)
*make sure someone with a comp license/s
*3 comp lic.'d people need to sign it & are attending
the T&T or race-day, wed. night drags whatever etc.
***some tracks only do license on certain days,
*need an ambulance & safety crew/fire crew in attendance usually too

then;
It's easy enough to get a license,
after the car goes thru a real NHRA style tech
you do your blind orientation drills, fully suited up...

Finally the actual licensing runs
get properly suited up, strapped in & dbl check everything
fire her up, put it in gear, roll thru the water-box put it in 2nd gear at a min.
just beyond the wet areas still rolling, then
*You'll do a burnout across the starting line
rolling burnouts in a light car are no joke either,
just don't let it go too far or too much RPM & blow it up in the burnout
or get too sideways
then;
back up get straight hopefully have some help, 1st few times
*1st run, stage, launch & early shutoff, are usually mandatory,
prior to 1/2 track, usually around the 330ft
*2nd run, do a burnout, a "real" hard launch like you would normally
then run it out a bit farther, than the 1st run, like 660+ to 1,000ft,
depending on what the safety crew & tech/starting line people say
click it off, where they tell you to
then;
that's if they think you're OK during the 1st & 2nd runs...
Some stuff/details all depend on how competent you were
with 1st & 2nd run
then;
hope you get that far & nothing goes wrong
*3rd run is a real-deal licensing run, full track, full pass chute/s & brake
exit to the return road, stop & roll up the chute etc.
& then tow her back & have 3 licensed 'qualified' people sign it off...

It used to be within 10% of the class you're being licensed for
if you don't know what class
*you still also can get a basic Comp License,
*you have to run better than 9.99 in an open cockpit FE car
for like SuperPro or Time Attack, brackets etc.
if (?) they think you're viable

good luck Bob

I'll be waiting for that video

 

[chtampa]

"Watch your foot", Don Garlits.

 

[cbodybob]

Not being a prick, just for info
you may already know too

BUT
that fuel tank ain't big enough

*do you have a NHRA Comp License ?
or what ever insuring & sanctioning body you have where you live
it will be required, no matter who it is...

*The proper cage & pipe thickness, updated & legal,
it's not 1969 anymore, that is a mandatory deal
no 'thin tube ****' like they did back in the good ol days,
(or rusted inside/degraded, from sitting for decades on end even in a garage)
chromoly hopefully, & hope it's thick enough
(should really check the tubing & cage requirements, before you even build
the car, even at a nostalgia race, it will need to pass 2022 safety tech. stds)
*driveshaft protection, you will be laying over the rear end,
straddling the driveshaft, it needs to have a "bulletproof containment"
*with hardened & a spined shaft (10 spline IIRC),
*splined/aligned hubs male & female for both the trans end & pinion
& with locking collars on the shaft, to hold them in place
*trans shield &/or probably engine & trans diaper
depending on what fuel in the tank,
but a FE & sitting behind in an open cockpit has far more requirements
*the blower needs to be contained (if you actually will run one, not just posing)
& restrained, with up to date 2022 safety stuff
not some old nostalgic 1969 stuff
that won't or shouldn't pass any good/real tech
*a full fire-Suit, probably 3-5 layers,
again type of fuel & trans will dictate some of the safety/fire requirements
*fire suppression system, usually a min. of 1 bottle halon,
for cockpit at a min., (you want it, believe me)
some will be a man. 2 bottles one for both sides of the engine
& one for in the cockpit
*it is all "usually" required
'when the transmission & bell-housing is in the cockpit' exposed
*Wear a sock or one built/sewn in the helmet,
*up to date SFI fire-resistant boots & gloves,
*SFI arm restraints,
*SFI proper dated/legal 5-6 point harness,
*SFI with a submarine belt
usually 3"
with **SFI fire-resistant shoulder straps/coverings
**a parachute if it's at all fast, 149+mph it's required/mandated
**rear brakes 'usually' on a levered hand brake
**& fuel shutoff 'usually' on the brake lever
&/or
*engine/mag./ignition kill switch, on the wheel
or within reach being strapped in
*chute lever/s easily accessible while strapped in blind, on the cage
*a SFI trans. reverse lockout/shifter, easily reached when strapped down

unless it's slow like less than 10.0 & not blown
even then
the saftey stuff is different/far more of it than a reg. door slammer,
or a street/strip deal or a 11-12 second car
even then you will be required to do the orientation drills
be able to stop 'simulation', unbuckle & get out 'blindfolded'
in less than 10 seconds
a FE & engine exposed, sitting in an open cockpit, is no joke
better know what you're doing, very quickly
you may not get a 2nd chance

1st thing is
after you check the chassis tubing & cage req.s;
*you will need to apply
& get the proper paperwork, can get off the -www- or
at the track "usually"
*You will need to do an FAA style full physical,
& be cleared & healthy 1st
& bring it/paperwork signed (by the dr.)
to the licensing rounds/track day
(best to do it on a T&T day, not a race-day)
*make sure someone with a comp license/s
*3 comp lic.'d people need to sign it & are attending
the T&T or race-day, wed. night drags whatever etc.
***some tracks only do license on certain days,
*need an ambulance & safety crew/fire crew in attendance usually too

then;
It's easy enough to get a license,
after the car goes thru a real NHRA style tech
you do your blind orientation drills, fully suited up...

Finally the actual licensing runs
get properly suited up, strapped in & dbl check everything
fire her up, put it in gear, roll thru the water-box put it in 2nd gear at a min.
just beyond the wet areas still rolling, then
*You'll do a burnout across the starting line
rolling burnouts in a light car are no joke either,
just don't let it go too far or too much RPM & blow it up in the burnout
or get too sideways
then;
back up get straight hopefully have some help, 1st few times
*1st run, stage, launch & early shutoff, are usually mandatory,
prior to 1/2 track, usually around the 330ft
*2nd run, do a burnout, a "real" hard launch like you would normally
then run it out a bit farther, than the 1st run, like 660+ to 1,000ft,
depending on what the safety crew & tech/starting line people say
click it off, where they tell you to
then;
that's if they think you're OK during the 1st & 2nd runs...
Some stuff/details all depend on how competent you were
with 1st & 2nd run
then;
hope you get that far & nothing goes wrong
*3rd run is a real-deal licensing run, full track, full pass chute/s & brake
exit to the return road, stop & roll up the chute etc.
& then tow her back & have 3 licensed 'qualified' people sign it off...

It used to be within 10% of the class you're being licensed for
if you don't know what class
*you still also can get a basic Comp License,
*you have to run better than 9.99 in an open cockpit FE car
for like SuperPro or Time Attack, brackets etc.
if (?) they think you're viable

good luck Bob

I'll be waiting for that video

View attachment 1288947

I sold it Bud to a friend a few days later. He called me the night I bought it & had to have it. I was never going to race it. Neither is he.

 

[65wgn440]

Yes, everyone knows you can't run one of the old one's competively anymore, but damn would be cool to have one. I almost bought one at the Michigan State Fairgrounds swapmeet they used to have. Have had a couple more opportunities, but not the cash. Have a 331 and a 354 sitting in the garage.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Not being a prick, just for info
you may already know too

BUT
that fuel tank ain't big enough

*do you have a NHRA Comp License ?
or what ever insuring & sanctioning body you have where you live
it will be required, no matter who it is...

*The proper cage & pipe thickness, updated & legal,
it's not 1969 anymore, that is a mandatory deal
no 'thin tube ****' like they did back in the good ol days,
(or rusted inside/degraded, from sitting for decades on end even in a garage)
chromoly hopefully, & hope it's thick enough
(should really check the tubing & cage requirements, before you even build
the car, even at a nostalgia race, it will need to pass 2022 safety tech. stds)
*driveshaft protection, you will be laying over the rear end,
straddling the driveshaft, it needs to have a "bulletproof containment"
*with hardened & a spined shaft (10 spline IIRC),
*splined/aligned hubs male & female for both the trans end & pinion
& with locking collars on the shaft, to hold them in place
*trans shield &/or probably engine & trans diaper
depending on what fuel in the tank,
but a FE & sitting behind in an open cockpit has far more requirements
*the blower needs to be contained (if you actually will run one, not just posing)
& restrained, with up to date 2022 safety stuff
not some old nostalgic 1969 stuff
that won't or shouldn't pass any good/real tech
*a full fire-Suit, probably 3-5 layers,
again type of fuel & trans will dictate some of the safety/fire requirements
*fire suppression system, usually a min. of 1 bottle halon,
for cockpit at a min., (you want it, believe me)
some will be a man. 2 bottles one for both sides of the engine
& one for in the cockpit
*it is all "usually" required
'when the transmission & bell-housing is in the cockpit' exposed
*Wear a sock or one built/sewn in the helmet,
*up to date SFI fire-resistant boots & gloves,
*SFI arm restraints,
*SFI proper dated/legal 5-6 point harness,
*SFI with a submarine belt
usually 3"
with **SFI fire-resistant shoulder straps/coverings
**a parachute if it's at all fast, 149+mph it's required/mandated
**rear brakes 'usually' on a levered hand brake
**& fuel shutoff 'usually' on the brake lever
&/or
*engine/mag./ignition kill switch, on the wheel
or within reach being strapped in
*chute lever/s easily accessible while strapped in blind, on the cage
*a SFI trans. reverse lockout/shifter, easily reached when strapped down

unless it's slow like less than 10.0 & not blown
even then
the saftey stuff is different/far more of it than a reg. door slammer,
or a street/strip deal or a 11-12 second car
even then you will be required to do the orientation drills
be able to stop 'simulation', unbuckle & get out 'blindfolded'
in less than 10 seconds
a FE & engine exposed, sitting in an open cockpit, is no joke
better know what you're doing, very quickly
you may not get a 2nd chance

1st thing is
after you check the chassis tubing & cage req.s;
*you will need to apply
& get the proper paperwork, can get off the -www- or
at the track "usually"
*You will need to do an FAA style full physical,
& be cleared & healthy 1st
& bring it/paperwork signed (by the dr.)
to the licensing rounds/track day
(best to do it on a T&T day, not a race-day)
*make sure someone with a comp license/s
*3 comp lic.'d people need to sign it & are attending
the T&T or race-day, wed. night drags whatever etc.
***some tracks only do license on certain days,
*need an ambulance & safety crew/fire crew in attendance usually too

then;
It's easy enough to get a license,
after the car goes thru a real NHRA style tech
you do your blind orientation drills, fully suited up...

Finally the actual licensing runs
get properly suited up, strapped in & dbl check everything
fire her up, put it in gear, roll thru the water-box put it in 2nd gear at a min.
just beyond the wet areas still rolling, then
*You'll do a burnout across the starting line
rolling burnouts in a light car are no joke either,
just don't let it go too far or too much RPM & blow it up in the burnout
or get too sideways
then;
back up get straight hopefully have some help, 1st few times
*1st run, stage, launch & early shutoff, are usually mandatory,
prior to 1/2 track, usually around the 330ft
*2nd run, do a burnout, a "real" hard launch like you would normally
then run it out a bit farther, than the 1st run, like 660+ to 1,000ft,
depending on what the safety crew & tech/starting line people say
click it off, where they tell you to
then;
that's if they think you're OK during the 1st & 2nd runs...
Some stuff/details all depend on how competent you were
with 1st & 2nd run
then;
hope you get that far & nothing goes wrong
*3rd run is a real-deal licensing run, full track, full pass chute/s & brake
exit to the return road, stop & roll up the chute etc.
& then tow her back & have 3 licensed 'qualified' people sign it off...

It used to be within 10% of the class you're being licensed for
if you don't know what class
*you still also can get a basic Comp License,
*you have to run better than 9.99 in an open cockpit FE car
for like SuperPro or Time Attack, brackets etc.
if (?) they think you're viable

good luck Bob

I'll be waiting for that video

View attachment 1288947

You just took what ever fun there could have been right out of it didn't you.

 

[Budnicks]

I sold it Bud to a friend a few days later. He called me the night I bought it & had to have it. I was never going to race it. Neither is he.

Oh well, just trying to help...

Been there done that...

I didn't want someone to go thru all that & not be able to run it...

You just took what ever fun there could have been right out of it didn't you.

wasn't meant to

 

[cbodybob]

Oh well, just trying to help...

Been there done that...

I didn't want someone to go thru all that & not be able to run it...

wasn't meant to

No problem Bud.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Oh well, just trying to help...

Been there done that...

I didn't want someone to go thru all that & not be able to run it...

wasn't meant to

I know. You would think there would be a lbs. per cube class to run this old metal in. As to safety, they were never that safe to begin with. I got to drive the first and last front engine in the fall of 73. Twice down the track was enough fun for me.

 

[peabodyracin]

I had a similar chassis in the mid 70's and put together an econorail. Mine had an early Olds rear end with a little less tire than yours, otherwise the construction, roll cage and bodywork was very much like yours. Fortunately I could fit in it, albeit with a bit of wiggling, but it sure felt cool to be sitting there! I hoped to go faster than my door slammer car would go, without having to spend a fortune on the thing. It was easy on parts and not much for maintenance either.

It was a kick to drive. Ran mid to high 10's and drove down the track well. Once in a while I'd start it up in the garage, drive it down the driveway and do a couple burn outs on the street in front of the house. The neighbors all tolerated me pretty well. I never was competitive (those guys were just as insane as any other class racer. One guy I knew was out in his garage every single night working on it. With 2 little kids that wasn't in the cards for me.) Lots of fun, good memories and much like a boat, the two happiest days for me were the day I bought it and the day I sold it.

Have fun!

 

[cbodybob]

I had a similar chassis in the mid 70's and put together an econorail. Mine had an early Olds rear end with a little less tire than yours, otherwise the construction, roll cage and bodywork was very much like yours. Fortunately I could fit in it, albeit with a bit of wiggling, but it sure felt cool to be sitting there! I hoped to go faster than my door slammer car would go, without having to spend a fortune on the thing. It was easy on parts and not much for maintenance either.

It was a kick to drive. Ran mid to high 10's and drove down the track well. Once in a while I'd start it up in the garage, drive it down the driveway and do a couple burn outs on the street in front of the house. The neighbors all tolerated me pretty well. I never was competitive (those guys were just as insane as any other class racer. One guy I knew was out in his garage every single night working on it. With 2 little kids that wasn't in the cards for me.) Lots of fun, good memories and much like a boat, the two happiest days for me were the day I bought it and the day I sold it.

Have fun!

I sold it 2 days later. Guy made me an offer I couldn’t refuse

 

[khryslerkid]

When I was a teenager there was a guy about 10 miles from me who ate, drank and slept flat head engines. He had all makes and all sorts of hot rod bolt ons. He had two or three rails just for flat head racing. They were outdated but he still loved to tinker with them. It's good to hang on to some history.

 

[chtampa]

My first chassis shop I worked at in Texas was just starting to give people a choice between front and rear engine dragsters in the late 70's.

 

[LemonWedge]

Super cool! I’m not really a dragster guy, but I do like front engine diggers. Have fun with it!

 

[cbodybob]

Super cool! I’m not really a dragster guy, but I do like front engine diggers. Have fun with it!

I’ve sold it already. Got an offer I couldn’t refuse

 

[YY1]

Hell of a vintage drag shop you're building, there.

 

[toolmanmike]

There was a time when "Econorails" were popular.

They are all cleaning up in ET class now. Box racers of course. They are hard to beat with a door car.

 

[cbodybob]

I’ve sold it already. Got an offer I couldn’t refuse

Haha hum….