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I just cannot figure out this tach issue

I used PayPal check out. I'll look for the email address I have.
 
Saw that. Not the one with the built in calibration unfortunately.
Contact the eBay seller and ask if the built-in calibration device is available.
 
Running an MSD 6A with tach adapter. It's wired up solid. Purple to the tach, white to grey. The tach is functional. The issue is it only works when it feels like it, which is just about 1/4 of the time. No rhyme or reason to why it does or does not work and when. I don't understand what's happening. I've gone over every connection and ground. It's all good. Could the old adapter just be shot?

One thing I believe may be incorrect is the gray wire off the tach is connected to the purple wire from the MSD and the dark blue I have no idea where it is going. I think this is backwards?
Late to this thread but are you grounding directly to the block? autometer says to do this and made a difference in cutting down interference for mine.
 
I removed it and ran clean wires to the battery and coil with no response. It must be fried.
 
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Does anyone know which is the M+ and M- wires? I am attempting to follow the directions here:

https://www.rt-eng.com/images/c/ce/M5tachboard_manual.pdf

I have a brown and a black wire. The brown wire goes to the point closest to the board, and the black runs lower closer to the tach face.

Also step 14 is unclear.

"14) Move the red jumper pin to vertical position 11between 1 &3 to calibrate tach to 1000 RPM. Adjust tach by moving the cardboard piece attached to the spring until the tach reads 1000.
15) Move red jumper pin to a horizontal position between 3 & 4 to allow tach to operate properly when installed in car."

I just remove the jumper pin and release the spring? That seems insufficient as nothing has been physically set. Or do I do adjustment screw on the blue calibration pot, as is directed above in:

"2) Place the red/yellow jumper pin in the vertical position between 2 &4 to calibrate the tach at 4000RPM. Note: when your jumper pin is in this position the LED light will blink 4 times with a pause in between. As shown in picture #11. 13) Adjust tach using the adjustment screw on the blue calibration pot, until tach reads 4000."

Note: They never respond to emails. I tried over a week ago. Twice.
 
Closest to the tach face is M+

METER+ – This hole should be connected to one of the wires on the tach meter movement. In most all of the meters, the wire on the meter movement closest to the face of the tach (usually the longest wire) should be connected to the METER+ hole.
 
Closest to the tach face is M+

METER+ – This hole should be connected to one of the wires on the tach meter movement. In most all of the meters, the wire on the meter movement closest to the face of the tach (usually the longest wire) should be connected to the METER+ hole.
Let's hope so! Thanks again Bill.
 
My offer still stands to look at this for you; you will only pay shipping...........

As for calibration, with the jumper in one position you adjust for 1,000 RPM, then move the jumper to the next position and adjust for 4,000 RPM.
 
My offer still stands to look at this for you; you will only pay shipping...........

As for calibration, with the jumper in one position you adjust for 1,000 RPM, then move the jumper to the next position and adjust for 4,000 RPM.
Either way, on the 4,000 portion of directions it tells you to turn the screw on the pod and when you hit 4000 that's it, done. But on the 1,000 it tells you to physically move the needle to 1,000, and then nothing. See what I'm confused by? There's no action to set it and then remove the pin, unlike the 4,000 setting which involved that pod and screw. Do I repeat the pod and screw for the 1,000 and it's just poorly worded?
 
So to move the needle there is a small bar, or lever at the back of the movement. The trim pot adjustment is the voltage at 4,000, and the physical movement adjustment is at 1,000. You don't touch the needle.
 
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