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I want to be able to lift the front of my 70 Charger 500 off the line - need your advice -thnx

dvw said:
There isn't enough traction in the street fo 99.5 % of the hot rods out there to pull the wheels. No front shocks and 400lbs in the trunk, maybe. My racecar wheelies on for 40-60 feet out nearly every pass. But there are days when the track prep isnt the best. It'll leave flat as a pancake. And this is with fully scienced out shocks, suspension, 6200 rpm converter, 4.10, 10.5x31 slicks, in a car that has been 8.96@150. I doubt it would pull the wheels on the street without loosening the front shocks and trunk ballast.
Doug

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BTW, you have a VERY cool car Doug!:thumbsup:
 
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Any one see where Linden got to?

dom-charger-6.jpg
 
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Get your gears and slicks. Get liquid traction compound that can be pumped by an electric fuel pump. Put a reservoir for traction compound in the trunk above axle with fuel pump. Run tubing out to each rear wheel well. Run tubing so in will wet the tires when you hit the fuel pump with T C, do this while backing up. That will let you run through the T C. Good luck with my goofy idea. :lol::lol:
 
Unfortunately, dvw's answer is the best one, and 100% correct. Even with gears, converter, horsepower and slicks, that most likely won't be enough to wheelie on the street. (Especially with a long wheelbase heavy car. Don't be offended, it's just a fact. Your car's wb is two feet longer than mine, and 1500 lbs heavier)
My car will wheelie on a GOOD track, leaves flat on a poor track, and blows off 14" slicks on the street, and doesn't even try to lift the front end off.
 
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Also, with slicks you’ll need at least hardened axles & maybe 4.56 gears? There are also shock extensions you can put on 90/10 front shocks & remove your sway bar end links
 
You have a beautiful car. Don't ruin it. I'm not sure 580 hp in that long heavy car would be enough anyway.
Just keep roasting the tires and use the front wheels to keep you straight.
 
You can make any car do almost anything. However what it will take to pull the front wheels will make the car not much of a street driver, I would leave it as-is.
It is impressive pulling the front wheels on the street though. My friend Mike did it with his 68 AMX, he had a 4 speed, built engine, 5.00 axle ratio and slicks along with that short wheelbase. Charger is a bit of a heavy, long cruiser to be doing the same thing.
 
Fury 440 said:
Nice car, Great answers. If all else fails, you could do what Dick Landy did and put 300 pounds of sand bags in your trunk.
It always seemed to work for him!! :D

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You have to watch those landings though!! :p

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Don't forget, wheelies can become habit forming!
Just ask the fellow below. Good Luck, you wild and crazy guy! :)

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I attended the old Irwindale a bunch, might have been there that day.
Some day I'll tell the story of the rocket car I saw at Irwindale,.....and the food stand.
 
33 IMP said:
Unfortunately, dvw's answer is the best one, and 100% correct. Even with gears, converter, horsepower and slicks, that most likely won't be enough to wheelie on the street. (Especially with a long wheelbase heavy car. Don't be offended, it's just a fact. Your car's wb is two feet longer than mine, and 1500 lbs heavier)
My car will wheelie on a GOOD track, leaves flat on a poor track, and blows off 14" slicks on the street, and doesn't even try to lift the front end off.
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DVW & 33IMP are correct, my Charger will spin on the street, at the track it will stick, these Chargers are very heavy takes a lot of power & the correct suspension AND a very good surface to pull the front end. my Street car @ the track
Charger2.jpg
 
It can be done, but to do it safe is a different story
movie stunts they add a crapload of ballast to the farthest point in the rear

you can also
free up the front end suspension,
it need to seperate & lift as much as possible (at your power levels)

remove the front sway bar

get slant 6 torsion bars, good drag shocks, 90/10 at a min.
so it can hopefully/will lift & transfer weight to the rear

take as much weight off the nose of the car,
steel replaced by Fiberglass fenders hood bumpers
lightweight front bumper, lightweight alum brackets for the bumpers
or steel/iron replaced by aluminum on engine parts

***extreme moves, proven a long time ago
move your engine & trans back 20" (?)
move your driving position back to the back seat area
or maybe turn it into an AWB car,
where you move the rear axle forward, front axle forward
hanging weight out the back & center of gravity/weight bias changed drastically

add the weight, that you take off the front to the rear,
***it's like doubling if just removing it off the front
or quadrupling the weight transfer if you add that weight to the rear
add it to the rear most part of the car, as far back & as low as possible

NHRA has strict rules on ballast,
I'd suggest you read it
you will need a lot to pull it up, much with the/your current power levels
stuff like battery trunk mount kits, ballast

gut the car otherwise, carpets door cards mirrors etc.

a good fuel cell & pump & filter, in the rear
so it's not going to be dragged on the ground

it will take a lose converter like a 5,500-6,000 rpm stall
some really good slicks 29x10.5w at a min (31" 10.5w is better)
hope you motor can rev

if you don't tub' it, or narrow the axle housing
it's hard to get much more than a 29.5x10.5 12-13" wide girth tire under it
need perfect backspacing & wheel sizes
& it'll need steeper gears if you go to a much bigger tire

get a min of Calvert/CalTracs full suspension system

or better yet a good set of dbl adj. ladderbars, to get the needed leverage,
get good rear shocks, dbl adj. too

a 4 link is better yet, if you can tune the suspension,

have it back 1/2'd, mini tubbed at a min for the bigger slicks
get some good wheelie bars, if you plan on doing any wheelies

you'll need some steeper gears 4.88:1 - maybe as steep as 5.13:1
(at your power levels, gear/torque multiplications, will help)

add a rollbar & sub-frame connectors at a min

a 350 shot of N20, & a trans brake, will help too
**** better be bulletproof or it will be a 1 time deal

lightweight interior/seats replacing "all the heavy OE stuff"
lightweight Lexan instead of glass side windows & front windshield
lightweight forged or spun alum. racing wheels, no steel junk
all of it will help

if you can even get it to hook, not enough power
& aa dead hook generally will bog
& slam right back down to the ground, smash your oil pan & headers etc.

probably
300#s-400#s+ of ballast
in the rear most part of the car, will help
at your HP levels

It sort of defeats the purpose of adding a bunch of weight in the rear
to go fast, make for an 'ill handling car' on the big end too
but if just a huge wheelie is your goal, it can be easily done

Good luck

kiwigtx said:
Wheelies are for show......keeping the front down is for go.
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yep :thumbsup:


real truly fast cars, don't try & do big wheelies,
it's a waste of motion/energy,
they leave with the wheels barely rasing off the ground,
the rear of the body does squat in weight transfer,
just watch a 'real state of the art racecar' look at car going in the 7's or low 8's
or faster like, any pro cars, Pro-stock car, they don't do big wheelies
& it takes HP too thou
 
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