Ignition Starter Switch Problems

[Markzilla88]

Will I need to do that even if I can put the key into the ignition in the starting position and jump the starter solenoid with a screw driver and get the motor to crank?

 

[440roadrunner]

Another update: I re-installed the new ignition switch, I tried starting it with the column apart and sure enough it worked. I put the column all back together, tightened everything up really well, and tried it again, got nothing... but I can only get it to crank in neutral.
When the column was apart and I had only installed the ignition switch, it would start in Park gear and idle, but now like I mentioned I can only get it to crank in Neutral. It does sputter right away like it wants to start but wont keep the momentum going to keep it running. I then tried to jump the starter solenoid under the hood and can get it to crank continuously but it wont fire, even with starter fluid.

Anyone have anymore ideas here for me?

You need to learn to troubleshoot. You need to learn the system, and what each part does. I'm not trying to be mean, I'm trying to say you seem to have no direction

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HOW IT WORKS

You get in the car to start. You twist the key to "start"

12V "comes" out of the ignition switch, through the switch connector on the "start" wire. This wire goes through the bulkhead connector and goes to one of the two "push on" terminals of the start relay, which is the relay magnet

The relay magnet cannot "find" a ground. Power "comes out" the remaining relay "push on" terminal which is the other end of the magnet coil

This goes down a wire in a small harness, down the firewall, over the bell and transmission, and ends up at the CENTER pin of the neutral safety switch. IF the switch is screwed tightly into the transmission, the switch is grounded.

IF the linkage is properly installed, not bent up, and is proberly adjusted, the transmission will actually be in park or neutral, and the transmission "comb" inside will actuate the neutral switch, causing it to "ground."

THIS completes the starter relay circuit and the magnet coil pulls the contacts shut.

One contact is the bit "battery stud" the largest stud on the relay. It is always hot, always hooked to the battery, and supplies power to one contact

When the contacts close, this runs that battery power out the small 'square' screw contact, down a fair sized wire to the STARTER SOLENOID.

This causes the solenoid to actuate, and energize the starter, IF the main battery cable is supplying adequate power to the starter.


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1......Check voltage at the proper wires at the column switch connector. If you twist the key to "start" and with a 12V test lamp or meter, you HAVE 12V at the "start" wire, then the switch is OK and that job is DONE. The problem is elsewhere

2....Is this a column shifter? Your description about "tightening down" sounds to me like NEUTRAL SAFETY switch adjustment. The shifter moves, the linkage moves, and the transmission lever moves. There is adjustment on the linkage to set it up "proper." The NSS switch is ON the transmission, and GROUNDS the switch wire in park or neutral. If the linkage is out of adjustment, that will not happen

Hold the key to start. Move the shifter from park through neutral. If you get "clicks" or it cranks, then the problem is "in that area"

3....you can easily test no2 above "if you get nothing." Go out to the start relay under the hood. There are TWO "push on" terminals. One wire runs down into the bulkhead connector. That is your start wire. "Rig" your test light or meter to that terminal. Confirm that you have 12V there with the key twisted to "start"

The second "push on" wire runs down, over the bell, and to the transmission. This wire goes to the CENTER post of the neutral switch. Disconnect that wire, and use an alligator clip to ground that relay terminal

BE CAREFUL!! The car will now crank in ANY gear. Make certain it is in park or neutral. Twist the key, see if it cranks. If it does, then the problem is........

(No particular order)

Misajusted transmission shift linkage

Bad / intermittent connector / connection in the switch wire up to the relay

Bad / intermittent neutral switch, or maybe just loose

Something wrong in the internal linkage of the transmission

- - - Updated - - -

If you do not have, or have not done so GET A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL!!!

You can buy paper or "on cd" reprints around the www and on ebay

You can download them FREE at MyMopar

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Also at MyMopar are third party wiring diagrams. These are not always completely correct, but are sometimes easier to follow.

If you don't have, you need "some stuff" for electrical troubleshooting:

A 12V test lamp

An old tail / stop light socket and 1157 bulb

Some "alligator" clip leads

A multimeter

A spark tester

 

[Markzilla88]

Thank you for giving me a trouble shooting guide step by step for my existing problem. Im going to try all these out and see what happens.
The reason I sound like I have no direction, is because I dont.. and I'm relying on helpful and willing people who have done this numerous times and have worked with these cars for years, knowing them in and out and their little quirks. Where if the car does "that", then that could very well be "this issue", sort of thing.
Again, thank you for your help

 

[PP1RT]

You need to do some adjusting on your shift linkage. When you have it all together it must not be getting into park. That is part of you other problem with the tranny not shifting right. Something is not kosher somewhere. Is the car actually in park when the indicator shows it is?

 

[69Runner]

Will I need to do that even if I can put the key into the ignition in the starting position and jump the starter solenoid with a screw driver and get the motor to crank?

The first position when you turn the key is IGN or ignition, the next (spring-loaded) position is ST or start. If it's working then no, you should not have to provide power to the coil when the key is in the IGN position.

With the key off, if you are just jumping the starter relay then the starter will crank but the engine will not fire.

It sounds like the problem is right at the column, something shorting out while assembling.