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Jerico 4-Speed

Dodgesaurus

Member
Local time
2:38 PM
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
9
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Location
Wrightwood, CA
Hello Mopar enthusiasts,

Considering on installing a Jerico 4-Speed in my 69 Roadrunner that has an A833 that unfortunately is not performing up to the task. Want to install a Jerico with a Long vertical gate shifter in the factory 4-Speed hole without hacking or cutting it up. Really need to know the unforeseen obstacles so that I can plan out and get what is needed please. If anyone has any experience with this, would really appreciate your inputs. Advantages to running custom shift rods with Heim joints? Pretty sure that I will need to modify a cross-member. Willing to machine custom pieces if needed, have access to a couple of machine shops. Appreciate all inputs for installations. We all know Jerico's perform very well.

Thanks a million
Charlie
 
A guy I met who runs one said he had to make mods to the hump in his 64 Belvedere so I'm sure you will too. He was running a Long shifter so that had something to do with it I'm sure.
 
welcome to FBBO

good luck with the tranny swap
 
You've come to the right place for advice - just happens your on the wrong forum within the site. Welcome to Mopar University...
 
Lenco ST1200 vs NP a-833 with shifter.jpgWas your a-833 rebuilt with a Liberty 9310 alloy face plated gear set? If not you might want to consider that before cutting up the car. Is it race only or street/strip? You will probably have to have a plan to slip the clutch either way if you want it to live. What engine is going in front of it?
 
View attachment 265747Was your a-833 rebuilt with a Liberty 9310 alloy face plated gear set? If not you might want to consider that before cutting up the car. Is it race only or street/strip? You will probably have to have a plan to slip the clutch either way if you want it to live. What engine is going in front of it?


Jeremiah,

Yes on the face plated gear set, Liberty did everything under the sun
Rockwell Hardness testing to get a hardness of between 56 and 58 for street use.
Cryogenic Processing
Thermal Stabilization
Shot Peen
Surface Enhancement
Thrust Washer fix enhancement on mainshaft - for 3rd Gear popout problem
4340 shifter arm replacement welded on existing Rooster cones
Machine side cover for press fit seals eliminating o-rings on shifter arms

Bought a brand new Hurst Competition Plus for B-body non console from Summit racing. Suspect some of my problems with that shifter and will buy a Long Shifter to enhance the shifting of the transmission. Right now I have to granny shift the trans, especially the 1st to 2nd shift because of extreme difficulty getting into 2nd gear. Thinking it's the Hurst shifter the culprit of difficult shifting.

Roadrunner for street use only and has a fire breathing monster 533" Hemi which is an all aluminum Indy Hemi

The fellow who built the transmission at Liberty who did an awesome job but had to send me another part to stop the 3rd and 4th gear popping out where I took the transmission down to Anaheim Gear in Anaheim CA to put that part in. Now I am going to have to do it again for 1st and 2nd gears which Liberty will need to send me that part as well.

No, I will not cut up the car - too nice of a car. Will do anything and everything possible to do a professional job to put in the Jerico which is an 18-spline unit and use a Long Shifter and not hack up the car. Will NOT hack the car up. Too many guys out there that do that but if they would just take some time and do it right.

You are probably thinking, why not fix the shifter and trans? The plan is to do just that, but right now I really want to bang some serious gears with the Jerico first and have tons of fun. Then to put the Hemi 4 Speed (fixed) with a Long Shifter later.

Thanks
Charlie
 

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Welcome .

Good Lord that's a beautiful car
I think I need a picture of the eng please
 
Do you plan on using the Jerico on the street? If so, you might not like it and you will most likely have to modify the hump. You usually have to modify it when using a Hurst Vertigate too.....and welcome to the site. Also, you will most likely get more replies if this question was in the right forum.
 
That is a great car. You have gone to great lengths to ensure your trans stays together too. What handle is on the shifter? Are you power shifting it with your foot flat to floor? Out of curiosity what is the shift RPM? Also interested to hear what kind of clutch you are using. There aren't many bigger cube, high HP stock cars running around - I'm intrigued!
 
Jeremiah,

The handle is a Chrome lever bent back about 40 degrees and is about 10". Usually shift car at 5,500 RPM's and sometimes 6,000 RPM's and a once in a blue moon 6,500 RPM's. Clutch is a McLeod Street Twin part number 64428B-00-05 that is expensive but worth every penny. I am very happy with the performance of that clutch.
 
Hello and welcome aboard!
You most know"Darryl" from Mopar Flats.
Nice car, great info.

Thanks for joining the forum.
 
Sorry, I don't know Darryl. Who is Darryl? I have only lived in Wrightwood 3 1/2 years. Mopar Flats, what is that? Sounds interesting.
Thanks
Charlie

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Sure thing
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Guys

Thanks for welcoming me to your forum, appreciate all the comments. Yes, I know I need to be on the drivetrain part of this forum to get the most answers for my questions. Trying to become a member of YouTube so I can upload a video of my Roadrunner. But to answer your question, yes, I plan on driving mostly street driving. Attached is a link to a guy who has a Jerico DR4 that is in a race car with mufflers and he doesn't seem to have much trouble shifting on the street. I have access to another 69 Hemi 4 Speed that I am going to place in the car in the next week or so just to make certain that the problem is with the Liberty Hemi 4 Speed and not my new Hurst Shifter. Don't want egg in my face when I plan on sending this Liberty trans back to Liberty for repair.
Charlie
 
Charlie,

I've been curious about your car for a long time and it definitely had a big part in the direction I've taken mine with the Pro-Touring look... Ever since I saw this issue of HotRod that just caught a couple pics of your car with no story to follow!

HemiOrg.jpgHemiOrg1.jpg
 
Hyrdgoon,

You definitely have the right magazine article. My good buddy George gets the credit for restoring the car which he had the car on a rotisserie restoration and is the guy that I bought the car from. When I bought the car, it had a couple a major problems mechanically speaking. George had a TKO 600 5-Speed in the car and broke the transmission. I warned him not to run it before he even drove the car. Eventually, my analysis proved right, that monster Hemi ate that TKO for lunch one day before I bought the car. Another problem that the car had was the Hemi oiling system. I had to take the Hemi out and get it looked at by a meticulous engine builder and happens to specialize in the Mopar engines. LaRoy Racing Engines in Challis Idaho took my Hemi engine all apart, fixed the problems that the first engine builder totally neglected and was IMHO criminal negligence by the way he assembled the engine. Jim and Cody LaRoy really did a superior job on rebuilding this engine, by cylinder head porting, match porting, clearanced the block on pushrods in the lifter valley. Aldon Miller of Performance Automotive Machine in Idaho Falls, Idaho did all the machining and balancing of block and rotating assembly. Now this Hemi has great oil pressure and runs extremely well.
Charlie
 
My 66 Belvedere required major work to the trans tunnel, and cross member. I have the Jerico DR-4 and the Long Shifter. If I was to do it again, I think I would buy the best built automatic with a trans brake.
 
Hyrdgoon,

You definitely have the right magazine article. My good buddy George gets the credit for restoring the car which he had the car on a rotisserie restoration and is the guy that I bought the car from. When I bought the car, it had a couple a major problems mechanically speaking. George had a TKO 600 5-Speed in the car and broke the transmission. I warned him not to run it before he even drove the car. Eventually, my analysis proved right, that monster Hemi ate that TKO for lunch one day before I bought the car. Another problem that the car had was the Hemi oiling system. I had to take the Hemi out and get it looked at by a meticulous engine builder and happens to specialize in the Mopar engines. LaRoy Racing Engines in Challis Idaho took my Hemi engine all apart, fixed the problems that the first engine builder totally neglected and was IMHO criminal negligence by the way he assembled the engine. Jim and Cody LaRoy really did a superior job on rebuilding this engine, by cylinder head porting, match porting, clearanced the block on pushrods in the lifter valley. Aldon Miller of Performance Automotive Machine in Idaho Falls, Idaho did all the machining and balancing of block and rotating assembly. Now this Hemi has great oil pressure and runs extremely well.
Charlie

Well it's a great looking car Charlie, Anything more you can tell us about your Hemi??

I'm making the switch from A833 to a 2006 Viper T56 which should be plenty for my needs. I don't have a Monster Hemi!
 
Guys/Gals

Thought that I would show you what Jim and Cody LaRoy of LaRoy Racing Engines found wrong with my 528" Hemi now 533" Hemi, see the following

There were quite a few issues that the engine assembler overlooked or cut corners.


1. The exhaust rocker shaft bar was mounted upside down making a gusher of oil squirting like a cut juggler vein being that the rocker arm was not covering that “banana” oil groove. This is only one of the reasons for reduced oil pressure.



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2. The spring spacer separators on rocker shaft bar started wearing a groove into the rocker bar hold-down block. We are going to eliminate the springs and put in a machined spacers to eliminate this problem. See third picture as Jim just was messing around with a bunch of spacers but we will have perhaps one or two solid spacers with maybe a few thin spacers for finite shimming.



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3. All 8 exhaust pushrods were rubbing on the side of the block. So “the fix” was to put in narrower pushrods on the exhaust side only. It did not work, but they still forced it in to work – no wonder you had a hard time setting the valve lash. Solution is to grind the block for proper clearance – not a big deal. In essence, the 8 intake pushrods are larger diameter than the 8 exhaust pushrods.

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4. All 8 pistons are scored badly and need to be replaced. Why, because they cut corners and did not hone cylinder bores with a “torque plate”.

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5. All 8 connecting rods need to be replaced and the crankshaft needs to be machined on the rod throws in the fillet area to stop galling into the edge of the rod bearing. The new rods will have the proper “big end” width for additional oil pressure control. The clearance was only 0.038” which is too wide which promoted to more oil spillage internally. Plus the big end of the rod was NOT concentric which also added to more oil spillage or lack of oil pressure control. Another corner that was cut by not checking or resizing the rod.

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6. One of the cylinder head bolt holes was stripped (lifter valley area) and will need to be heli-coiled. Another cut corner.

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7. This cylinder liner will probably need to be replaced. Not sure yet, Jim is bringing the block today to Idaho Falls at Performance Automotive Machine and to see how much boring will be needed. Indy has told us that not bore larger than 0.030. This is again due to the lack of Torque Plate honing.

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8. Block Mains – it appears that the mains were not completely finished machining. Jim is going to check with the machine shop to investigate this which may need to machine down the caps and do a finish honing on main bore. They will gun drill the 2 camshaft oiling bores while there too.

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9. Another cut corner – lack of assembly cleanliness. Dirt in the main bearings and rod bearings too for that matter.

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10. Camshaft was starting to go south - #7 cylinder lobe was starting to gall. Replacing the camshaft anyway – not a big deal. No pictures.



Jim thinks that Aldon Miller (machine shop) owner can fix the crankshaft on the fillets on the rods being that Aldon is a crankshaft specialist. Waiting for Aldon to tell me what size pistons to buy and go from there. Anyway we know why this engine had oiling problems and have solutions for all of that. This is why the guy back east is not selling motors now (as far as I know) because of his short cuts and sending stuff out the door to cut a “quick” buck. That kind of attitude will get you in trouble all the time. Later, Aldon fixed or machined the crankshaft on the fillets without having to undersize the mains or connecting rod throws. Had to bore the cylinders to 0.020 overbore to clean up the cylinders. No cylinder linings needed.



11. Forgot to mention. 2 of the exhaust valves were leaking badly with one bent valve – so essentially 2 of the cylinders had no compression. To me that is probably at least 100 Horsepower. Deck heights were pretty close stock as expected. Now with all this fixed properly, can you imagine how this thing is going to run?

Replaced all pistons, rods, better rocker arm assemblies from T&D, pushrods. Send some updated pictures tomorrow

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