• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Lead sub?

RR71RR

Active Member
Local time
6:36 PM
Joined
Dec 4, 2022
Messages
38
Reaction score
45
Location
Oneonta, ALABAMA
I just bought a 71 RR. Stock 383 Automatic. I’m not sure what gas to put in it. Super or reg unleaded. Do
I add a Lead substitute?

IMG_7185.jpeg
 
Depends on if your heads were rebuilt with hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel or not.

I would also use whatever has the least or no ethanol in it, which is usually your highest octane Super.

At least where I am that's how it works.
 
71 could have 906 or 346 heads, and as said it takes awhile to sink the valves, unless you're putting on 12-15000 miles a year.

Mark
 
The hardened seats thing is a little less of a big deal now that the cast iron is 50 years old and has had numerous heat cycles.
It's hardened from age now.
I ran my 906 heads for nearly 25 years and 30,000 miles and I didn't think the valves were sunk very much at all.
It still ran well.

And YES to Ethanol free gas if it's available in your area it's all I run if possible.

Cool car. :thumbsup:
 
71 could have 906 or 346 heads, and as said it takes awhile to sink the valves, unless you're putting on 12-15000 miles a year.

Mark
Yes....I agree. For an occasional use vehicle pump gas will be just fine. Re ethanol blended fuel....if you`can find fuel WITHOUT ethanol...great....if not use a good high octane fuel. Ethanol has approximately half the BTU value of gasoline and may require carb to be rejetted slightly richer, depending on the percentage of ethanol in the blend. Ethanol also csuses problems....mainly evaporative and lower MPG. IMO......DO NOT USE ANY OF THE LEAD SUBSTITUTES AS THEY USUALLY CONTAIN A MANGANESE BEARING COMPOUNDS, Which, when combusted, will shorten spark plug life ......just a thought.....
BOB RENTON
 
Last edited:
I get a agree, and a disagree. So, how's the liar and who's the truth teller??
 
Well, there were only two engines that maintained somewhat high compression in 71 and the 383 wasn't one of them.....and I'd say run it on your local gas but treat it with fuel stabilizer which helps keep the fuel last longer. If your engine pings on your local fuel, then you'll need to add something to the fuel or back off the timing until it doesn't ping. Don't know how old you are but us old farts don't hear pinging engines so much anymore unless they are pinging their asses off! :D
 
I’m gonna throw out the use of TC-W3 rated 2-cycle oil or Marvel Mystery Oil at a ratio of 1oz to 5 gallons of gasoline. Good for lubricating the internal carburetor parts and valves.
 
I’m gonna throw out the use of TC-W3 rated 2-cycle oil or Marvel Mystery Oil at a ratio of 1oz to 5 gallons of gasoline. Good for lubricating the internal carburetor parts and valves.
One could add the same aggregate compounds as the three witches added in the cauldron in the rhyming couplet from Shakespeare's play, Macbeth, chanted by the supernatural three witches.or you could add mashed bananas or pureed horse ****.....but....WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO???? Just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON
 
Lead sub, I don’t use any in the 68 383, not sure if that will cause problems down the road. If yit does oh well good excuse for new heads.
Don’t worry about the ethenal in gasoline. Just a big farse. Ive never been choosy and never had a problem.
 
One could add the same aggregate compounds as the three witches added in the cauldron in the rhyming couplet from Shakespeare's play, Macbeth, chanted by the supernatural three witches.or you could add mashed bananas or pureed horse ****.....but....WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO???? Just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON
....because the garbage gas available now is much poorer than what was available then, and what that car was designed to run on.
 
Well, there were only two engines that maintained somewhat high compression in 71 and the 383 wasn't one of them.....and I'd say run it on your local gas but treat it with fuel stabilizer which helps keep the fuel last longer. If your engine pings on your local fuel, then you'll need to add something to the fuel or back off the timing until it doesn't ping. Don't know how old you are but us old farts don't hear pinging engines so much anymore unless they are pinging their asses off! :D
Back in the day its was said that old 30s cars like the Ford Models A could use any combustible fuels... like fuel oil............ The compressions were so low and you could retard the spark from steering columns like the model As & Ts for a hotter ignition spark.

i had many of 1930-1 Model As.

The Model A club had a slow race.... that is we started out at the lowest spark advancement at a throttle idle and the first one that stalled there car lost the race..... they would run at one cylinder firing a second interval.

Besides you could us a hand crank to start the car by adjusting the fuels & spark mounted on the steering column..

I remember the fuels back in the days were dirtier than today's fuels.... you could see actually see the sediment floating in the fuel filter site glass. Using "Good Gulf" (cheapest grade) gas in my area as I remembered changing the fuel filters once a month......... believe it or not.... the fuel in the fuel filters were so glog my 54 Chevy would not run...... or hard to start............ Oh I remember well.
 
Last edited:
I run non-ethonal no additives in my pretty much stock 383 71
20220129_183915.jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top