Locating #'s on my 68 Charger
- Thread starter The Rebel
- Start date
What numbers? The vin numbers or partial vin numbers are located 1. On the dash 2. On the upper radiator support 3. On the drivers trunk rail under trunk gasket 4. If still present the fender tag.
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Sorry I was too vague. I'm looking on where to find the casting #'s, stamps...etc..to determine if my car is #'s matching or not. I'm guessing there has got to be some sort of worksheet that indicates where to locate all of these.
other than engine and tranny those are the numbers that have to match.
monaco66coupe
Well-Known Member
The SON is on the radiator support,fender tag, and drip rail. The VIN is on the Dash, and the engine, located on the rear lip of the block about 11:00, under the kickdown linkage. it should be six digits only.The Vin on the transmission is on the trans side parallel with the engine block. The block should also have the letter D (68)under the distributer for 383, on pad by Power steering pump for the 440.
monaco66coupe
Well-Known Member
You are correct, I was going by my memory of a 68 Block in the shed with just six. But all the others have eight as stated. I guess it all depended on what mood the guy was in that day. by 69' they got their act together.
My 69' dart actually has all 13 on the block. I noticed The Dodges most likely had 13, and the Plymouths tended to have only eight(69-70)as time went by only eight were stamped, which made it harder to determine exactly what car the engine came from when they did that.
My 69' dart actually has all 13 on the block. I noticed The Dodges most likely had 13, and the Plymouths tended to have only eight(69-70)as time went by only eight were stamped, which made it harder to determine exactly what car the engine came from when they did that.
4mayhemi
Well-Known Member
Like the four spots where BeeKeeper said, when selling a car, numbers match usually refers to sheetmetal and engine block/tranny when most people claim that. However, most all parts will have castings/stamps as well. Usually sellers will provide additional callout like "complete resto" or "100%" if all parts are correct (given some parts are also designed to be replaceable wear items). You're on your own, I have seen no list.
You seem to be a thorough guy, so while you are waiting for your car to get shipped to you, purchase a parts catalog (kinda a list) and Factory Service Manual. Then while you are driving and enjoying it, you can slowly take notes of all parts. A list of "what is has" vs. "numbers correct." Talking major easily seen items like carb, radiator, wiper motor, master brake cylinder, water pump, jack, . . . . the list is long. Other items can be visually checked like radio, decals, etc. Things like heads, etc. can be researched for when taking apart, if ever. A broadcast sheet will make it simple, but if not, a lot still can be done by searching a few forums.
Basically when you know what you have, it can help make decisions about what to do. The sheetmetal will dictate a lot of the direction, though. It can range from "I have 85% parts correct, I'm gonna do a complete teardown, because that last 15% is in my budget." Or "I have 30% correct, small budget, I'm just gonna bondo, do top end and drive da piss outa it." NOS, OEM-date-correct, aftermarket-engineered, repro . . . many decisions will fall into place. Or maybe not.
Like the discussion in your purchase thread shows, it's up to you to decide where to take the car. And that is where the "hobby" part comes in. Get some sleep!
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Yep I'm a born gear head breaking things down & understanding how they work. As a kid I spent hours building and painting models.
In high school (84-88) I enjoyed shop classes (Metal, Wood, Print, Auto). I stuck with Print all 4 years and did Auto in my Freshman & Senior year. I scored pretty good on the ASVAB test as well. I seem to remember that they told me I would be good as a missile battery operator.
Definitely not going to go too nuts with this, yet LOL! Looking forward to enjoying the search & understanding my car and how orig it is. Will focus at looking at the Engine Block & Heads (Intake & Carb are aftermarket add ons), Trans, Rear, Radiator and any easily located #'s. Not going to pull the car apart to find hard to reach/locate #'s.
As far as literature I've printed a TON of material from the 1970 Hamtramck Registry. Is there a good/cheap 68 Service Manual out there, hopefully free & online.
In high school (84-88) I enjoyed shop classes (Metal, Wood, Print, Auto). I stuck with Print all 4 years and did Auto in my Freshman & Senior year. I scored pretty good on the ASVAB test as well. I seem to remember that they told me I would be good as a missile battery operator.
Definitely not going to go too nuts with this, yet LOL! Looking forward to enjoying the search & understanding my car and how orig it is. Will focus at looking at the Engine Block & Heads (Intake & Carb are aftermarket add ons), Trans, Rear, Radiator and any easily located #'s. Not going to pull the car apart to find hard to reach/locate #'s.
As far as literature I've printed a TON of material from the 1970 Hamtramck Registry. Is there a good/cheap 68 Service Manual out there, hopefully free & online.
4mayhemi
Well-Known Member
The parts book is one of the better purchases I've made, as a lot of us post from memory and that's a good second check. Haven't used my FSM yet, but additional parts insight. People swear by their fasteners book. Free? Ha.
If you haven't yet, check out dodgecharger.com for more specific 68 charger threads.
If you haven't yet, check out dodgecharger.com for more specific 68 charger threads.
Rebel,
You download the FSM free at mymopar.com
You download the FSM free at mymopar.com
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Looked there already but no FSM for 68. I download the parts catalog though. $10 isn't going to break the bank (assuming I win the auction) & I can't print that here at work anyhow.
Last edited:
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
The fastener book is a waste of money a lot in that is incorrect.......
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Do you have a build sheet? The only way to tie the VIN to the body numbers in 68 is via the BS. 68 is the only year this was done....
The guys over on DC.com and some here have the core knowledge to help you out....Just do as your doing and ask us these questions.....PM those people anytime we love that kind of stuff.....
There is not one single reference available. I agree with the parts book for a reference is a good choice. Dave Wise books add a cost but have great explanations and pictures to boot(not a 100% correct either)but better than most...
The guys over on DC.com and some here have the core knowledge to help you out....Just do as your doing and ask us these questions.....PM those people anytime we love that kind of stuff.....
There is not one single reference available. I agree with the parts book for a reference is a good choice. Dave Wise books add a cost but have great explanations and pictures to boot(not a 100% correct either)but better than most...
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Thanks! According to the owner no build sheet. I'll be looking for it & will be and will be amazed if I find it. If I do, I'll post it.
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
It could be there just in an odd location, hopefully.....
That stuff I wouldnt even stress over....First and foremost is deciding whats most important to do first.......Personally, you waited a long time and now you got what you wanted...Enjoy it first for awhile. Change all fluids, bleed/check brakes etc all maintenance things and drive the PISS out of it......The other crap wait till winter when you cannot drive it and dig into that then....
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear that and congrats on your acquisition.....
Similar threads
- Locked
