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Looks like I need an axle....

RustyRatRod

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It appears that I am going to need an axle For my Coronet. It's a 65, but has the early tapered axle rear end in it. The threads on the end of the driver's side axle are messed up beyond repair. My machine shop says they are hardened and the although he can build it back up and cut new threads on it, that it will not hold. I trust his judgement. So, can yall tell me which models and years will be the same? Does anyone happen to have an old tapered axle they might want to trade for some carburetor work or sell cheap? Thank you drive through.
 
Rusty, I think a 64 axle will fit just fine also.

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Found this on ebay.......
http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-Dodge-330-440-Polara-Plymouth-Fury-Belvedere-Savoy-Mopar-8-3-4-Axles-Tapered-/380653836741?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a0bc99c5&vxp=mtr
 
I saw those. He talks like 64 was a one year only length.....I'm skeered. lol Besides, I only need one. I REALLY need to do some trading if I can. I'm just trying to get this car back a roller and it's fighting me every step. At least I did get the axles out this morning. I guess I'll see if I can work something out with the guy on ebay if I caint find anything else. I did send him an email asking the length. Thanks for pointing them out.
 
i have a complete converted to ez offs from my 64 440, if your in fla west coast lets talk turkey aka no $$$ involved.
 
I believe there were two different "B" body rear end widths in '64. The standard flange to flange width was 55 5/8" with the max wedge rears measuring the same as the earlier '62-'63 "B" bodies 53 1/4". Unless your car has a rear from an original '64 max wedge the standard axles should fit fine.
 
I believe there were two different "B" body rear end widths in '64. The standard flange to flange width was 55 5/8" with the max wedge rears measuring the same as the earlier '62-'63 "B" bodies 53 1/4". Unless your car has a rear from an original '64 max wedge the standard axles should fit fine.

Yeah, but who is to say he doesn't have a '62-'63 axle under there? It could be either one.
 
Yeah, but who is to say he doesn't have a '62-'63 axle under there? It could be either one.
Unlikely given its a '65 (probably an early one) with a left over '64 rear end. Ma Mopar was really good at using up left over inventory on the early cars for the next model year.
 
Found this info. As long as a '64 axle is used, should be okay.

Thrust Block Variations
*There was a difference in thrust blocks prior to 1964 that make center section interchange, as well as axle interchange problematic.
The thrust block, or "axle shaft thrust spacer", is the block that both left and right axles butt up against inside the center of the differential. Prior to 1964, all open differentials used a thrust block was approximately 1/8" to 1/4" thicker than units made after 1964. The Sure Grip thrust block prior to 1964, however, was identical to all 1964 and later Sure Grips and open differentials.
In 1964, the thrust block width was changed to match the Sure Grip thrust block width.
This difference in thrust blocks between Sure Grip differentials and open differentials required that two different axles be produced for each 8-3/4" housing manufactured. This is true of all 1959-1963 cars with 8-3/4"s.
 
Right. I may have to shorten the axles a little. That's ok. I got a wiz wheel for the miter saw.
 
Hey Rusty, I still have a'64 Polara that has a rear end still intact in it. It is a 4 door but I think the axles might be the same as yours. It still has the poly 318 and a push button automatic trans. The radiator is missing but it still runs very good and the last time we fired it up you could still move it around under it's own power. I really would like to get a hold of that thief that got my radiator and have a little chat with him.
 
Just a thought-Been pulling tapered rear hubs since 1966 when I started at a Chrysler Plymouth dealer and have never used a puller because that's what messes up the threads even when you put the axle nut flush with the end of the axle,but if you use one of these axle knockers it works very well.Leave wheel on hub,remove axle nut and washer,screw knocker on and bottom it out,turn wheel so that keyway is at 9 oclock pull on the tire and wheel with your left hand and hit knocker with the largest hammer you can swing it should pop loose always has for me.My axle knocker was made by Mac and # is W-2,3/4x16 thread. SAM_2458.jpgSAM_2457.jpgSAM_2459.jpgas you can see it is well used.
It appears that I am going to need an axle For my Coronet. It's a 65, but has the early tapered axle rear end in it. The threads on the end of the driver's side axle are messed up beyond repair. My machine shop says they are hardened and the although he can build it back up and cut new threads on it, that it will not hold. I trust his judgement. So, can yall tell me which models and years will be the same? Does anyone happen to have an old tapered axle they might want to trade for some carburetor work or sell cheap? Thank you drive through.
 
I tried one of the axles back in today with the sure grip installed. It fits.
 
The thrust block only comes into play when you put the second axle in.
 
I know. It fit too. Best I can figure is this was an original sure grip unit. Somebody swapped it out.
 
After closer inspection, the driver's axle was not bottomed out. From my best estimate, it looks like they need shortened 1/8" on each side. Have any of yall done this? Does that sound about right? I got no problem doing it and have the stuff to get it done. Thanks.
 
I chucked up my steel cuttin fiber wheel on my miter saw and it hacked off an 1/8" of axle like it was hot butter. Now all I gotta do is dress a bevel on it and open the splines back up on the end. Nuffin to it.
 
Well done Rusty. I went through some pain a while ago when I realised there was no thrust spacer fitted in my S-G. At least they removed all of the backing plate shims. As if 1/4" axle end play was OK??!!
(Probably done by the same guy that fitted 2 engine main bearings upside down...) I got a new spacer from Cass, and had to machine up the shims/spacers myself to get the end play right.. At the time I was thinking I was going to need to slice axles too, but thankfully didn't.
 
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