Make my bird faster

[Moparbuster]

Got 69rr 470 horse 440 with 727 Rev man valvebody 391 gears Calvert 90/10 up front and adjustable in back on softest setting with Mickey Thompson Street slicks ran 7.96 in 1/8th trying to go faster any suggestions

 

[1967coronet]

Loose weight,

no mention of converter ? Tire dia. , mph, ect lots of gray area.

 

[Budnicks]

Less weight, use some Aluminum or fiberglass where you have cast iron or steel,
maybe a fiberglass hood, take some weight off more power to weight ratios
fiberglass bumpers, with lightweight alum. Lingenfelter Bumper brackets...
100#s is a tenth...

Move the battery to the rear, pass. side in the trunk
(you will need a kill switch if you do) what ever you take off the front & add to the rear
is more than double the weight advantages, for weight transfer

**free up the front suspension travel, let it rise
transfer the weight to the rear

More camshaft, 1.6:1 rockers & better flowing heads...

Maybe a larger diameter long tube 1-7/8" min. header tube
or at least the diameter 'or larger' of the exhaust valve size

Cut outs after the headers if it has exhaust,
or 18" collector extension, if it is open headers
(get a Holley 4150 style center pivot floats Carb)
re-jet the carb for it, all good for 15-20 Hp at times, easy stuff

Loser converter, more stall speed, 4,200+ RPM, 9" - 9 1/2"
helps with torque multiplication, (especially with a steeper gears)
launches get the 60' times to come down
what ever you trim of the 60' times, will be like 3-4 times that, in a 1/4 mile
about 1-1/2 to 2 times that in an 1/8 mile

if it doesn't have a traction adder, do CalTracs on the rear
they work & work on the street too

**get good adjust. shocks, don't go cheap

Maybe a gear change, 4.30:1 (maybe 4.56:1 if it can rev well) these heavy cars
need the gear to make them move, off the line (unless you have boost)

a wider/better tire/slicks
on some lighter wider wheels, less reciprocating weight, on anything helps

Maybe a lil' more advance into the distributor or faster in the curve, to the total...

Probably a different intake, & if you don't have a 'Edelbrock RPM'
driving on the street/strip, to around the 500-550hp mark
you're missing out on some usable power
if it's a dedicated drag car
the open plenum 'single plane' is OK, but it's meant for W/O throttle...
need to tune for either also

A better carburetor, especially
if you have a Carter or (POS) Edelbrock/Webber copy of the Carter AFB
get a Holley style carb, a Brawler or Quickfuel etc., properly sized
learn how to tune it
(CID x engine RPM -/- 3456 = CFM, at 100% efficiency, so go 50cfm lager)

A carb spacer, re-jet the carb for it too
if it's a dual plane go with an open 1" spacer, that will pick up like 12-15hp
if it's a single plane go with a 4 port tapered 1" spacer, about the same HP pick up

weight reduction, anywhere, everywhere really helps

if all else fails, Boost (costly, but works)
or N2O is cheap, a 150 to 200 shot is pretty easy, not a real engine killer
if done properly

Performance 101 seminar over...

 

[Moparbuster]

275/60/15 dot mt slicks 2400 rpmstall 1.8091 60ft mark 87mph shifted out at 5500 seemed to be faster that shifting at 6000rpm thanks for reply

 

[Moparbuster]

Less weight, use some Aluminum or fiberglass where you have cast iron or steel,
maybe a fiberglass hood, take some weight off more power to weight ratios
fiberglass bumpers, with lightweight alum. Lingenfelter Bumper brackets

move the battery to the rear, pass. side in the trunk
(you will need a kill switch if you do)

More camshaft, 1.6:1 rockers & better flowing heads...

Maybe a larger diameter long tube 1-7/8" min. header tube
or at least the diameter of the exhaust valve
cut outs or 18" collector extension

Loser converter, more stall speed, 4,200+ 9" - 9 1/2"

Maybe a gear change, 4.30:1 these heavy cars need the gear to make them move
a wider/better tire/slicks on some lighter wider wheels, less reciprocating weight

Maybe a lil' more advance into the distributor or faster in the curve...

Probably a different intake, & if you don't have a Edelbrock RPM
driving on the street, to around the 500-550hp mark
you're missing out on some usable power, if it's a dedicated drag car
the open plenum is OK, it's meant for W/O throttle...

weight reduction, really helps

if all else fails Boost or N2O

It's street car full interior

 

[Budnicks]

It's street car full interior

It all still applies...
just how much faster you want to go...

 

[1967coronet]

High 7s is what a high 12s qt time.
Been years for me so not for sure.

A heavy B body in full street trim running into the 7s or high 12s at 470 hp ain't to shabby.
Jmho I am thinking along budnicks lines of more gear and converter, then getting it to the track surface lol,
The diet is probably the best bang per buck but I understand keeping it original looking.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Stall converter, line lock, shift kit, drag radials, lose weight.

 

[1970Bee]

How fast do you wanna go, how much are you willing to spend, how much are you willing to let drivability suffer and how important is keeping it all steel and or original?
High 7s at 87mph with a 1.8 60’ are pretty reasonable numbers. Making it substantially quicker means you have to ask yourself some of those questions above.

 

[Rusty knuckles]

You could go a lot looser on your stall and squeeze another 50hp out of your engine and not hurt your street ability in my opinion

 

[DeltaV]

In summary, spend more money.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

 

[1967coronet]

View attachment 1848169

I new that was going to show up.lol

 

[icetech]

Boost... Boost... always boost.....