Not really for a Novice
There isn't really enough time, my effort in typing or room here to explain it all... It isn't cheap like a carburetor system, be prepared to spend $2500 minimum for "most" of the necessary stuff, unless you can find the proper stuff, used cheaper maybe... If you going to buy an Enderle Injection Stack System, make sure all the shafts are straight free moving no issues with the butterfly's or you will regret it, never over tighten the manifold it will screw up the shafts & linkages, an Injector Hat {like on a Blower} on a Tunnel Ram is really a better way to go, much easier to tune & deal with instead of stack type injection, but it's your choice, they both can work well if tuned & using the proper nozzles, bypasses & proper pump sizes, that's I-M-H-O anyway... You should call Enderle, get the appropriate nozzle sizes {get some 1 size lean 1 size rich & 1 size in the middle for infinite tuning capability}, & pump capacity for your fuel type & engine needs, have it flowed by a professional, you will also need an idle bypass & a couple of high speed bypasses, a mechanical fuel shut-off/bypass, ignition or mag kill, maybe even a longer barrel valve linkage arm that attach's to the barrel valve shaft, it makes the peddle more manageable, instead of feeling like it's "full on or full off all the time", when you have the shorter linkage it will seem like that's all you got, also when you have a fuel cell way in the back of the car it may be tough to prime the pump, on start ups, you will need to run at least 1 return line back to the fuel cell or as many as you have bypasses & check valves returning back to the tank & use quality 4-10 micron cleanable in-line filters & clean them often, if your planning on running a mechanical fuel injection, a pump right off the front of the camshaft with like a Milidon gear-drive & cover, worked best for me, especially for an all-out drag only car, if your planing on running around on the street at all, a belt driven pump with an armature, Gilmer cog belt & pulleys off the crankshaft {it ain't Cheap}, you need a bunch of room for all that stuff, like 6"s in-front of the engine, if you have a tight engine bay that's allot of stuff to dump in there, I would also suggest you install a small 5-7gal. vertical "cell" in the front of the car, especially if it's a race only type car... Depending on what size line you have now, you may/probably need to increase the size of the main supply line to a #12-#16 A/N or larger even depending on your engine needs & Pump size needs... I would highly suggest you get a large selection of "Pills" to tune with, for Main Circuit, Idle & Bypasses, you usually need some kind of "pill" in any of them, there are also "pill selectors" {winged & outlaw Sprint car guys use them} that you can use, that will give you a couple of sizes up & down at the turn of a dial instead of tearing everything apart to change all the pills {they are like a jet in a Carburetor,but you need them on the fuel in & out sides both}... I would highly suggest you buy a Book on "How to Tune & run Mechanical Fuel Injection System", it will be well worth the money, I also suggest you get a couple of good gauges & air line quick connects/fittings & tee's & hoses, to be able to set the system with air flow like a leak down tester, to be able to "flow test the barrel valve", you set one at 100psi & the amount of flow thru the other going thru the barrel valve is your flow rate, example; 80psi is 80% flow, 70psi is 70% flow.... Also try Fowler, Crower, Hilborn, Enderle, Pete Jackson {OLD units} or Watterman or others even, all have great systems that can work on any type of manifold & pumps or bypasses, depending on what type you end up choosing, most Fuel Injection system have the same theory any way, the parts can be different thou... GOOD LUCK & DO YOUR RESEARCH... when you get it right they are better than carburetor... Carburetors Suck/vacuum to get there fuel signal, Fuel Injection works on Pressure & Flow
