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Missed this during my preseason check. Glad I found it now.

dvw

dvw

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Made some toe plates to more accurately check alignment. Noticed it towed out 1/2" over 4" of up travel. While adjusting the tow sleeves afterward happened to look thru the wheel. Quite the shock. Fortunately Summit had parts in stock. Shipped in one day. I love Summit. All better now. It gave me a chance to wax the suspension parts as well. I know, I'm nuts.
Doug

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Doug, good catch that could have been the wrong kind of exciting! I have a question, how did you fix your toe change during upward travel? I see you have bump steer ends for your outer tie rod ends. I have the same issue with toe change on my charger, mine also changes a 1/2" with 4" of up travel. I installed a bump steer kit similar to what you have but it still has a significant toe out change at the top of the travel. I split the change difference with toe static setting, so at ride height the tire are toed in 7/32 total and at 2 inch of rise toe is 0 and at 4 inch rise tire just off ground its toed out 5/32 total. Short of heating and bending the ball joint arm is the another way to solve the issue. Thanks. Greg
 
Wow good catch, one of them rotor/s break on a pass
& hard braking
slam you one direction or another, that'd be seriously ugly

You have a chute too I assume at the ETs or speeds you report
I got really used to pulling the chute, dumping it just before the stripe
instead of hard braking (like a lot of faster 'bracket guys' do too)
saves on parts some too, PITA to have to always repack the chute, but that's racing

Yeah, Summits the best...
 
Budnicks said:
Wow good catch, one of them rotor/s break on a pass
& hard braking
slam you one direction or another, that'd be seriously ugly

You have a chute too I assume at the ETs or speeds you report
I got really used to pulling the chute, dumping it just before the stripe
instead of hard braking (like a lot of faster 'bracket guys' do too)
saves on parts some too, PITA to have to always repack the chute, but that's racing

Yeah, Summits the best...
Click to expand...
Yep, Summits the first place I check, especially since it’s so close to me.
Speedway motors has been great the few times I’ve ordered stuff too. Mancini, Smith Brothers are great too
 
dvw said:
Made some toe plates to more accurately check alignment. Noticed it towed out 1/2" over 4" of up travel. While adjusting the tow sleeves afterward happened to look thru the wheel. Quite the shock. Fortunately Summit had parts in stock. Shipped in one day. I love Summit. All better now. It gave me a chance to wax the suspension parts as well. I know, I'm nuts.
Doug

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I’m sure those rotors glow red when you bring that down from 140+mph …..
Have you thought about Cryo Treatment to improve rotor performance?

Oh and do you use a Carnuba Wax on the oil pan too ?
It helps the track photogs get a glimpse of perfection in motion. !!

Beautiful Ride !!

Mopar2ya!!

John
 
charger greg said:
Doug, good catch that could have been the wrong kind of exciting! I have a question, how did you fix your toe change during upward travel? I see you have bump steer ends for your outer tie rod ends. I have the same issue with toe change on my charger, mine also changes a 1/2" with 4" of up travel. I installed a bump steer kit similar to what you have but it still has a significant toe out change at the top of the travel. I split the change difference with toe static setting, so at ride height the tire are toed in 7/32 total and at 2 inch of rise toe is 0 and at 4 inch rise tire just off ground its toed out 5/32 total. Short of heating and bending the ball joint arm is the another way to solve the issue. Thanks. Greg
Click to expand...
You have to either raise the outer tie rods or lower the inner tie rods. To lower the inners you could bend the idler mount downward (with heat they bend pretty easy) and shim the top of the steering box. Mine still isnt perfect. Pulled two .060" shims between the stud and heim on each side. Removed the tie rod studs and machined .060" off the shoulder. Not sure i want to take anymore off them. That got it to 3/16" in at static height, zero at 4" lift. Any more I think I'd surface grind the shoulder on the heim (see pointer in the picture). No time now racing Saturday. Maybe in the future. Many don't realize when you add caster it lowers the outer tie rod creating toe change thru travel. To answer the other questions. No chute. I've thought about it. 150mph is the limit. These rotors were replaced in 2015, about 900 passes ago. These brakes actually came off my 63 Dodge that I raced from 1990 until 2004.
Doug

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Whew, that rotor could have been a disaster. Good catch.
 
They are Willwoods, very old from the 90's. This is the 3rd pair of front rotors. Just swapped the original rear solid rotors last year. They were not cracked, Use the last turnoff always as I'm only use what is needed to slow down. Long tracks like Indy don't even need the brakes. The car stops really well and could stop quicker by braking harder on the pedal. It has run 147 at London Dragway and Kil Kare. Both are very short, requiring imediate brake application at the stripe. On them pretty good at those two tracks.
Doug
 
dvw said:
They are Willwoods, very old from the 90's. This is the 3rd pair of front rotors. Just swapped the original rear solid rotors last year. They were not cracked, Use the last turnoff always as I'm only use what is needed to slow down. Long tracks like Indy don't even need the brakes. The car stops really well and could stop quicker by braking harder on the pedal. It has run 147 at London Dragway and Kil Kare. Both are very short, requiring imediate brake application at the stripe. On them pretty good at those two tracks.
Doug
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I really think you need to blow torch a hatch on the floor and apply the bare foot surface scraping technique as in Flintstones style for extra stopping power. What do you think?
 
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