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Misunderstood Mopar tech 400, Thermoquad etc.

The Professor

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I was thinking today about buying a mid/late 70’s Mopar to add to my collection and that got me to looking at the 400. I’ve read a few articles on it and think it’s got the makings of a really good engine.

I think it’s deeply misunderstood by a lot of Mopar folks and completely unknown to GM and Ford troglodytes. Most Mopar loyalists think of it as a “smog” engine and as such they discount it.

Looking at the 400’s specs like the bore/ stroke, rod ratio etc, it’s obvious to me it really can be quite the monster. It was burdened with a horrible cam from the get go hence its smogger reputation. It replaced the much loved 383 in a period where many thought that it did so because it was a weaker motor created to meet smog standards.

The 400 needs a real cam and some tweaked heads but the bore and stroke make for a quick revving engine. It has a 4.34 bore which is bigger than the 440 but its stroke is shorter at 3.38 vs 3.75. So it has the makings of a revy lil beasty.

The 400 was saddled with a small cam, a misunderstood carb (thermoquad) and a restricted exhaust, all things that are easily fixable. The heads are meh/ok but they can be woken up or better Mopar/aftermarket heads can be used.

Want a stroker? Put a 440 crank in it and you have a 451! Bore it 30 over and you are pushing 460 cubes of sweet Mopar justice! Add some 440 source stealth heads and a cam and your at 500 horsepower easy.

I use Hughes cams only, they are a Mopar only outfit and they understand that Mopar uses a 906 lifter that allows for a more aggressive ramp rate. Most cams are designed off of a Chevy grind so you are cheating your Mopar of free HP/TQ by not using a Hughes cam.

Anyway my opinion and 50 cents might get you a cup of coffee but there ya have it.

As always, Get Real….Get Mopar
 
The short stroke 383/400 could have been a real screamer......if Chry had put some decent flowing heads on it.
 
The main problem w the stock 400 is the pitifully low compression ratio. Was advertised at 8.2,but doing the math reveals its actually only 7.7 .
Bringing it up to at least 9.0 really wakes it up. By the way,most stock advertised compression ratios are false and actually .5 to 1.0 ratio less.
 
Yes, awhile back the 400's were "discovered" and are recognized now to be a great building block (pun intended) for an excellent engine.

I have a 383 Road Runner. I took out the original, untouched numbers matching 383 to protect it and replaced it with a stroked 400 displacing 500 cubic inches, roller cam, :blah:. Back in the car, it still looks (mostly) like a stock 383 but it has torque galore. Awesome motor!

20230529_134501.jpg
 
One of the things I remember hearing in my youth was that the 400 had thin walls and an overbore would cause over heating problems. Is this true or just an old wives tale?
 
I don't think so.

"Thinwall" casting was an engineering "improvement" but IIRC did not affect over boring.

If that were true, the 451 recipe wouldn't work.


The other issue most had was a pitiful final drive gear.

2.4x was pretty common as was 2.76.

I had a 77 400-2 from a van, and even with the 2 barrel, when I put it in my 70 Super Bee as a stand in engine, it screamed with the 3.55 gears.

The "problem" with 400 builds is finding pistons to get it to 9.x :1 that don't cost an arm and a leg.

BTW- if you don't over bore, and just use a stock 440 crank, IIRC you get a "444".
 
I had a 400 in my 76 Cordoba which was never going to be used as a street racer. It was very dependable especially when twice the water pump let go and sent the fan into the radiator. Both times I nursed it home and the engine was glowing when I opened the hood. Put it back together both times and it started right up. Nine years and over 200,000 miles I had to give it up due to MI winters and salt.
 
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