Modded Vehicle: Stock Starter Relay?

[79B100]

Happy holidays. I just joined the site, but have referenced it while rebuilding and customizing my ‘79 B100 during the past two years. Sorry if this is not the typical B body.

Prior to this project, I had no automotive experience, so please bear with me. I’ve managed to do a nut-and-bolt rebuild on this non-running van and have been able to figure everything out so far, but the ignition switch-to-starter relay wiring is giving me the business.

Note: I have totally rebuilt the 318 and put a Holley Sniper on it. The project has a lot of aftermarket, performance parts, including an all-in-one HEI distributor. It is a hot rod. Other than its frame and body, the van was in horrible shape, with scary looking mods to the wiring harness, typical of custom van work ca ‘79. So, I have replaced the wiring with a “universal” harness from Painless, which seems to be working, except for the ignition switch-to-starter relay connection.

The starter solenoid is not activated when I turn the key in the ignition. Power from the battery to the relay is good. Power from the relay to the starter is good. Power from the fuse panel to the ignition switch is good. Accessory “run” power activates gauges, stereo, etc, but only in the “crank” key position. I have tried multiple ways to connect the Painless ignition wires to the Mopar ignition 7-pin connector, but can achieve no more success than this.

Because I am using an all-in-one HEI distributor, I have eliminated the oem ballast resistor and ignition coil. I have also removed the van’s egr system. So, I have capped the BAL and EGR terminals on the oem starter relay.

After extensive research and confusion, I drew the attached diagram, which is how I have wired the circuit in question. I have referenced the original wiring diagram, but it is not totally helpful because of the vehicle’s mods.

One or more of these must be the problem:

1. I have wired things incorrectly.

2. The Mopar style starter relay requires using the BAL and EGR terminals and possibly will not work with my no-ballast, no egr setup.

3. The starter relay, though a brand new Standard Motors product, is defective.

4. The ignition switch, though also a brand new Standard Motors product, is defective.

Also, could someone please clarify “Battery 1” vs “Battery 2” and “Accessory 1” vs “Accessory 2” wires on the ignition switch? These names do not correspond with Painless ignition wire labels. With my setup, do I need B1/B2 and Acc1/Acc2? Should I be using a different type of starter relay and/or ignition switch?

Thanks for any help.

 

[pnora]

Run a 12 volt jumper to I and see if it cranks.

 

[pnora]

Following your manual you should be able to see what each ignition switch wire does. I doubt you have any defective parts. I just think you have it wired wrong.

 

[79B100]

Yes, I did that already, thanks. The starter is good.

 

[pnora]

Yes, I did that already, thanks. The starter is good.

So that means the relay is doing its job. Now to the wiring.

 

[RemCharger]

Does it have the lower mount ignition switch actuated with a rod? They are adjustable

 

[79B100]

It’s the non-tilt column switch:

 

[pnora]

If I had the manual I could sort it out in a few minutes. From what I see you need to make sure these are correct. The rest I would need the manual to see how they are configured.
1-Battery. This will be a direct feed and not through the fuse panel. It fill be on a high amp fuse link.
2-Ground. Run this to a good ground source.
3-Battery 2 ? refer to manual
4-Ignition. This will be your 12 volt feed for the ignition system.
5-Accessory 1-? refer to manual
6-Start. This is your crank wire to the relay. It does not need to be in the fuse block.
7-Accessory 2-? refer to manual

 

[Carcinogen]

I now just use a separate push button switch for the starter. It is mounted out of sight under steering column, turn on ignition and push start button. Wiring and all connectors were old and corroded and am also using HEI that needed full voltage to coil.

This set up helped a when a buddy lost his keys and they did not know about the separate starter button and could not steal car.

 

[Demonic]

From your drawing - with a voltmeter, the purple wire should have 12v when the key is turned to start. The black wire should have continuity to ground only in park or neutral. Another pair of hands may help.

 

[79B100]

Thanks for the suggestions. It’s easy to get confused without a dialog. The problem is that the IGN wire from the column switch is not sending any current to the starter relay when I turn the key. “Run” key position is activating connected components, such as the gauges and stereo, but “crank” key position does nothing. Again, this is a brand new non-tilt, 7-pin ignition switch. Before I take the steering wheel apart again to look at the switch-end connections, has this happened to anyone else? Any idea why it might not be working, other than a bad switch-end connection? Power is going into the switch via B1 and B2 terminals.

 

[79B100]

I now see that member had this same ignition wire problem in September with a new ign switch. I will see if mine, like his, has a bad terminal connection to yellow wire. There could be more of these faulty new switches on the store shelf.